brnin8r

10+ years.

Thanks again. Sanderson has quite a few choices of block huggers, so looks like I'll have to do some measuring. I'd like to just do a bolt-in, so hopefully I can find some headers that line up (rest of my exhaust is in ok shape - looks like it was stainless and single chamber flowmasters).

Thanks!

Hi all, The noob again. Can anyone identify these headers? I have the angle plug fuelie heads (double hump) and wondered if I could replace these headers, and do short plugs and not have the "dings" in them? Is much flow lost from these "dings" to clear the angle plugs? Are there other (better) headers I can use that will fit these angle plug heads, the 240z, and still have the collectors at the same place so I can use my existing exhaust? Or.... should I just clean these up and keep using them (are they decent)? Thanks again - love Hybridz!

After pulling my SBC, and doing a quick degrease, I noticed the driver side motor mount was broken (the rubber was 90% split, so I just ripped it the rest of the way). Does anyone recognize this mount? The crossmember looks original and unmolested, and it looks like the mounts were the part modified to make things fit (same with the transmission mount). I'm wondering if this is an opportunity to get the best position for mounting the motor? The hood latch catch is notched for the distributor, if that helps. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Scarab 155: I'll have to check and see, but I don't think so (I think it is a lakewood bellhousing, and I don't recall any additional mounts). hoov100: Thanks for the feedback. The reason I considered the Coleman manufactured bracket was from the pictures it looks like the pushrod might be at an angle with this one-off bracket, and I wasn't sure if that contributed to the slave cylinder leaking (with some sideways force as it goes in and out, wearing it out)? Since I have everything apart now, I wanted to put it back with the best external slave option. While searching around, I came across this interesting hydraulic conversion for Jeeps (but should work for anything). Seems pricey though: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm

Thanks! That looks like the one; Coleman's website was hard to navigate. I also found a Coleman mounting bracket, 375-301, and the only picture I could find is here: http://www.colemanracing.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=6306 I was thinking of getting the Coleman made mounting bracket, but looking at it, I'm not sure it bolts to the bellhousing between my SBC & Muncie. Also, the Coleman unit puts the slave mounting plane parallel with the plane between the motor and bellhousing.... but I noticed my setup brings that mounting plane back several inches (see pic), since it seems the clutch arm used for my Muncie is pretty far forward. So to buy a bracket, and new slave, looks like I'm over $100. While spending $ for new parts, is there a better bolt in setup for my SBC/Muncie combo? Appreciate the feedback.

Hi all, This is a great forum, I read here all the time. Still tearing down my SBC 240Z. Previous owner said it had a Muncie M22 Rock Crusher. The clutch slave is a billet piece, threaded body, with a push style when pedal is depressed (versus pull). The bracket was a one off (some welded steel L bracket), mounted to the block/tranny area with the billet body on the engine side, with the pushrod facing rearward, pushing the clutch arm. I noted it appears to leak some, so I'm wondering: - get a rebuild kit (not sure what it is though) - replace it with the same item (since bracket is already fashioned) - go with something new and better, but easy bolt-on (suggestions?) I was thinking it *might* be a Coleman, but I can't find an exact match in their catalogs, or any identifying markings on the piece. It is probably 10 -15 years old (car has been a SBC for a long time). Here's a pic, any help is appreciated!!

All - I appreciate the advice and comments. Motor and trans are out, and I am thinking what to change. One thing for sure, the shifter on the M22 (always hit my hand against dash grabbing third). I think my goals for the car are a weekend/test & tune drag car. 1/4 mile strip (75-80 drag strip) is 10 miles from here, and I want to drive to and from, but have some fun there. On a nice day, might take the car to work (about 5 miles away) - but will not be a daily driver by any means. So I guess I'm looking for a budget track car, but enough street drivability to get to and from the drag strip. I'd be really really happy in the low 10's or high 9's (but realize it may take awhile and more $ to get there). jt1 - thanks. I'll get a closeup pic of that specific rocker. BillZ260 - thanks. Good advice, got me thinking I should go further still. DavyZ - thanks. Supposedly this is the cam in there: Competition Cams 12-615-5 (314B-8) SOLID 314-1 324-1 276 286 .557 .578 108° (http://www.compcams.com/products/212-225.pdf). But who knows (will look for markings). hoov100 - thanks. Will be checking lifters soon. dr_hunt - thanks, very informative. Will check studs. What pushrods do you recommend? Looking at the pistons stamped with L2304 030 seems like they are TRW Forged (not the "Keith Black Forged" I was told verbally?). With those Dart Heads, those pistons, what cam do you recommend? If I'm going to buy new heads, should I maybe try to go aluminum, and lose a little weight (or is $$ way up there then for a comparable head)? I appreciate your input!

I guess I don't follow, it was an update to this thread getting thoughts on this car: - I'm the OP (I'm the same person - forum dropped my account, I guess b/c it was so old, so I reregistered) - It's the same car - It's the same general concept (learning more about the car I acquired, getting thoughts about it from members) I thought by posting in the same thread it would easily show the history and background of the car. The only thing that is off is the long timeframe. I looked at forum rules, and don't see anything about that and how is it I hijack my own thread? Curious.

Hi all - fast forward many years, and I only put about 1,500 miles on this car. I had to reregister, it lost my account (says I was a guest?). I'm getting back into this car, and will get all those pics of the setup. Stopped by the 75-80 drag strip Saturday - might have something to do with it (girlfriend was even fired up and turning wrenches with me). Anyway, last year it developed a miss in #6 (second from the rear, on passenger side), and just now got around to start tearing into the motor. Turns out the #6 exhaust valve pushrod got boogered up, and is shorter than the rest (not bent, but mangled, like it was beaten on the top). Interested in thoughts on what might have caused it, and where I should look next )b/c of the high lift cam?)? Pics posted below, and you can see the exhaust valve is "cleaner" then the rest on that #6 cylinder, and piston on #6 seems OK - no evidence of valve strike. Rockers on #6 seem normal too - just some strike marks though where the shorter rod came out of the socket. I'll have to find my notes, but I think in the compression check there were no obvious problems (all within about 5-10% of one another). Trying to decide how deep to go into this, (just freshen everything up, look at different head options, whether to throw these 492 heads back on, etc.).