akuma-z
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Posts posted by akuma-z
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Nice project.
Did you get a chance to try re-uploading the first video?
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Put me up on the list.
1vb - akuma-z
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A '79 Fairlady would have an L20e motor from the factory. It is a fuel injected 2.0L inline 6.
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Thanks for the PDF. That is exactly the kind of information I was looking for.
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Did you assemble the motor yourself originally? Maybe it was that way when you got it.
Derek
I did not assemble the motor so that is very possible. I originally bought the motor for the head and decided the tear the bottom half open to see what was in there.
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I tore one of my motors down to check the internals and found some damage on the side skirts of piston 1. The motor is an L28 with what appear to be Ross forged pistons. The motor is stock bore. I did a compression test and all cylinders were somewhere between 180-190 psi.
The damage appears to be isolated to piston 1. The bore visually appears un-damaged. All of the bearings/crank journals were in good shape so it does not appear that any metal fragments made it through the oil system.
Prior to tearing down the motor it ran strong and did not show any signs that there was a problem. The CR was a little high to be running on pump gas (E31 head) and I know there were occasions where I could hear pinging intermittently when it was hot out. What has me confused is that the damage is all isolated to the side skirt. If the damage was caused by detonation I assume I should also see damage on the tops of the piston. My best guess is that there was not enough oil getting to the cylinder or improper installation but I am open to any suggestions.
I am almost tempted to put the motor back together and push my luck with it since it still had good compression and I don't want to put any more money into this motor.
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Mark, I am also in the Austin area and was wondering where you found your vq35hr motor. I would like to find a motor locally to avoid getting ripped off on ebay and figured you could point me in the right direction.
Both of your cars are amazing by the way.
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Thanks man, is exactly what I was looking for. I didn't see those last time I was shopping around.
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I have been looking at the speedhut revolutions guages for my S30 but I was having trouble deciding between the gps version or the ones that have the turn signals built in. Since you mentioned that the gps version keeps track of 0-60, 1/4 mile, etc. I think I will get that version and find another solution for my signal lights.
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2010 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport:
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I am pretty interested in this radiator for my S30 but I do have one concern. Since this is an aluminium radiator won't it need to be isolated from the chassis? As best I can from the pics this radiator uses the stock mounting holes without any isolators.
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I am interested as well if they are still available.
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I was talking to an engineer my father works with who knows alot about HVAC. He suggested adding another coil, this is what Porsche did to improve the A/C in the weak system of the 911. It was also suggested to try an electric compressor. This would eliminate one variable from the complex system allowing the compressor to run at optimum efficiency at all times regardless of engine speed.
I am not aware of any electric a/c compressors designed for 12V systems. Everything I have ever seen has been for hybrid electric cars that operate at much higher voltages. I guess it doesn't matter how the compressor is driven since load will still make it to the motor either way, only this way it is redirected through your alternator.
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This is pretty dissapointing news. I have a fidanza flywheel that needs a new friction surface. I hope they still make the parts I need for my flywheel.
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I sent in my tank and was given a quote of $450 to have the following modifications made:
1. Add sump with 2 fittings (size -8AN).
2. Remove driver side vent,
3. Remove stock inlet/return lines.
4. Exchange top vent lines with threaded fittings.
If you aren't interested in adding a sump I am sure the price would be better.
I was able to ship the tank from Texas for $29 using USPS. I should be getting it back soon and I will post some pics.
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I just boxed up my tank and sent it to Moyers to have similar work done. They cannot really give a good quote until you send your tank in since the cost is dependant on how much prep work will be required. I can post the total cost and pics of the completed tank once I get it back.
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I am going with speedhut revolution gauges because they have the turn signal and high beam indicators built into the speedo and can be customized to appear fairly stock.
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Austin had 50 size tires on his wats.
There were pics on his for sale thread:
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I usually get my inspection taken care of when I go back home to visit my family. They live in a small town in Texas that doesn't require emissions testing. This has saved me from a few headaches in the past. I think I ended up saving like $28 since you only pay for the safety inspection portion.
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The only "NOS" windshield weatherstrip I see on ebay right now is being sold by reddat so I would suggest looking elsewhere. I have a large suspicion those "NOS" parts he is selling are remanufactured.
If that name is not familiar you should check this tread:
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Looks like Courtesyparts still has them!
Product SKU: 72610-S30ALL
Like everyone has already mentioned..be ready to pay.
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I love this build. I just started sourcing parts for a similar project. I am glad to hear that extrdabody stands behind their products.
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This is a common problem with aftermarket seals. I bought windshield, hatch, and door seals from Nissan
I thought that the Nissan OEM seals were NLA. If not, would you happen to know the part numbers you used? I would like to avoid using aftermarket seals if possible.
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(Though he doesn't agree with my brake setup! They work brilliantly. lol)
What is your brake setup, just curious? I am thinking of going with his rear brakes.
LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
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