Silent

kansas city missouri. because we need more z people here who actually know something about the cars

put a bottle on it, and run some 12's

what year gtp?

pull the glo plug out of it, turn it over about 5-6 times, check the batteries for the starter glo plug thingy {dunno the techy term for it} to get fuel into the chamber/carb, put your finger over the exhaust pipe. don't do it too much or you will have to repeat the above. once it is half *** idling, turn the trim on the controller up a notch or two, to get it to idle higher till it's warm. before running it, set the truck up on something high enough and stable enough that you can run it at WOT, and partial throttle to adjust the carb. shouldn't take more then 5 mins to tune it. if need be, send me the truck, i'll tune it for ya. for a small fee of course

if they grip too much, add more power

i get asked at least 2 time a day when i drive my z if i drift. "uh, no" "it's the perfect car for it!" "no, my pathfinder is easier to drift" "oh" buy your ae86's, 240sx's now, and double the price after the movie comes out. look at what it did for nitrous kits and supra's i'll go see it, laugh at the kids tryin to get sideways in their moms suv, it's a good time around here when the kids gather in groups

he was drrunk, a hot chick hit on him, she gave him a nice rufie colada, took him back to her place. and he woke up in a bathtub full of ice, and two tubes comming out of his back and note that said "you move, you could die" nevermind, im out in left field again

they are worth a good chunk of money. get em!! and send me one too

hmmm, now i have to ask. reccomendations for a 3.1 street ported/light race p79, msa 3-2 header, msd ignition, holley red pump and regulator, 5 spd tranny, 3.90 gear. i was plannin on going with 45's eventually. i fully understand the concept of webers, in how they work, similar to a efi standalone system. more or less a UTEC for a subaru. willin to help a n00b out?

i know someone that has a sharp racing valve cover. id love to find one that says just nissan on the cover.

hmm, i bet they still have the part laying around that you need. i can dig through an old catalog and see if i can find it for ya. i haven't been out there for a couple months now, {haven't needed anything} so i haven't picked up a new catalog from them. {it's nice living 20 mins away from em}

victoria british does

im runnin stewart warner in my dash, 2 5/8ths and 5 inch speedo and tach. i just shoved em in the dash, didn't use the stock cups. then again it's all commin apart later anyways

how to get 192 rwhp. n47 head {z head} 3.1 stroker, on flat tops msa 460 cam su carbs sm needles n36 intake runners msa 3-2-1 header 2.5 from collector back to a straight thru muffler msd 6al, late 260 elect dizzy 36 degrees of total timing on 100/91 mix octane fuel. this should get you close to your goal. this is my current set up. it put down 192 rwhp, and over 200 ft lbs on a dyno jet just a thought. many ways of doing it, mine is not the most cost effective

hmmm, gives me something to check when i pull my motor this month

there really isn't a sure fire fix is there?

so, it seems the zx dampner isn't holding up. mine is a stocker off a 280z {with 145k miles, original off my car} not doing anything goofy as of right now. just seems wierd, dunno

i have zinged my engine to over 8k before on the stock dampner. hasn't come apart yet. then again, it's fully balanced, and has with stood me sending the motor to 6500 on a regular basis. i love how people get wacky idea's about stock parts not being able to survive

ugh, hmmmmmm have turbo cars layin around. this is so tempting to do. but more headache in the end. ::thinking:: good numbers for damn near stock!

if tuned right, and a slightly bigger cam, i don't see why not

direct port, would be 6 nozzles placed somewhere before the head/intake gasket, and after the carbies. be it you're runnin efi, itb's, triples, or su's same rule applies for all, just different fuel pressure. nitrous kits don't like anything below 7 psi of fuel pressure. screws up the a/f mixture. all the carb kits are jetted for 7 psi at said lb/min. su's are the easiest to be sneaky with. next is efi. the manifolds on su's don't warrant enough clearance below the manifold/between the header and manifold to do a direct port. kind of hard to be sneaky with a long motor and not much in the engine bay as it is {IE carbed cars} just some more idea's for ya

hmmmmmmmmm interesting

im not worried about it, im pullin the motor in the next couple weeks to go over everything with a fine toothed comb, so to speak. i'll post some pics when i get to the point of it being apart. i need to get a gasket set for the whole thing anyways, im tired of chasing oil leaks and random "goo" on the block. but it did run a 14.5 on said screwed cam. before i knew of the 4th lobe being barfed.

i have checked the swipe and all that fun stuff. it's fine! thats what's scary. from my understanding, im not the only one that has had this problem. then again. im not worried about it. im more worried about the bottom end with metal shavings, so, soon the motor is comming out, and get a very through cleaning, and checking of everything.

yep, another one. first off, some history. ran the valves a couple months back, come to find out. i had three cam lobes going flat. today, changed the valve cover gasket, again. for the 4th time. checked the cam. noticed something. ANOTHER LOBE going flat. so im up to 4 lobes going south now. so for those looking at the msa cams for their z, seriously, do some shopping around for better regrinds, or new billet core cams.