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Montoya

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Posts posted by Montoya

  1. Hello everyone,

    So I have the 240SX subframe installed on the Z but I need coil-overs. The 240SX coil-overs are about 3.5" too short. What have others done in the past to correct this problem? I can machine spacers but I think that would be a waist of time. How much do custom coil-overs run? I assume I just need a long enough shock body and I could make them using Ross's or anyone elses coil over kit.

     

    Check out my gallery for some pics of the install.

  2. I love those wheels. As for the correct offset, I am not sure but I believe that Ross's 5 lug conversion is the same as the stock Z offset. The 5 lug with the big brake kit however uses the Z31 front hubs which changes the offset. From Ross's site:

    "Offset of the Z31 hub is 3/4" greater than stock OEM 4 lug 240Z and 280Z hubs."

     

     

    So basically if your 2" wider then a regular ZG flare which I believe adds ~1.5" per side, you are looking at 3.5" per side wider. With regular ZG flares and a 8.5" wide wheel in the back you would run a 4" back space. With a 13" wide wheel I think you could run a 6.5" back space in the rear.

    For the front, with a 10" wide wheel, you should be able to use a 5.5" backspace with the Big brake kit and still be ok. I would check around first though to be sure.

     

    I have a few questions regarding the Work ZG flares:

    1) Where can I get a set?

    2) How good is the quality on these parts?

  3. MSA had thier carbon fiber ZG's at the JCCS (Japanese Classic Car Show) in October. They were definately not the best quality... the weaves were buggered and would only look good if they were painted. I think the regular, non CF, flares would look the best (if you're going the ZG route). You can easily paint them to suite your tastes. That's just my opinion...

     

    I was at that show and I too noticed the lack in quility. By the way did you notice the white 240Z with the large fender flares. The car was kinda in rough shape but the flares were nice wide fiberglass ones. I have been looking for some nice wide flares like that for a while and I did not get to talk to that owner. Do you have any pictures of the car I'm talking about?

  4. Montoya' date=' my r33 rear subframe has been left untouched for 2 years. Keep us informed, thanks.

     

    Also my RB has been sit on the floor for months.

    My current project is LHD to RHD power steering conversion and A/C.

     

    Kazu[/quote']

     

    I will post some pictures soon, right now it is a little embarrassing with the car all torn appart. I got a case of the "while I'm at it bug" and decided to replace the floor boards in the car. They had a few pin holes under the seats and it was bothering me. I'll post pictures here soon.

  5. Well, at the moment my car is hacked to pieces. I have the RB25det and tranny mounted, I have the fuel cell mounted, the cage is half way completed, and the seats are mounted. Currently the 240SX subframe is being installed along with new floors and frame rails. Once that is completed, I can complete the cage, have a driveshaft made, and route the fule and brake lines. This is taking longer then antisipated however I think when it is done it will be worth it (that's what I keep telling myself anyway). I hope to have the motor fire up by christmas! I will keep everyone informed. Later

     

    Jon

  6. So it probably was the ingnition module however from all the failed start attempts the engine was flooded. What is strange is that those modules are normally fairly strong and rarely break unless you have a bad ground to it. I would double check the ground on it just to be sure.

  7. Extremely lowered MacPherson strut suspensions can cause problems, no doubt, and I would agree with you that there have been quite a few suspension improvements in the last 35 years. Navy's thing was because of the 450hp he said he needed to upgrade the suspension. I'm still not clear on why the hp necessitates the suspension swap. Drivetrain for sure. Suspension, not so sure.

     

    Now that you mention it, that is a little weird. Maybe he is like most of us with the "while I'm at it" disease.

  8. There are numerous options for high horsepower applications however for handling and suspension adjustability, I don't think you can match the 240sx subframe swap. I am in the process of doing it right now because I want to be able to lower my car as low as possible while maintaining good suspension geometry as well as a good contact patch. With the stock setup, the lower you go, the more camber you have. While this can be somewhat corrected, it is not as good as the 240sx with the upper control arm adjustability. I debated putting a solid rear axle in the back because they can take a ton of HP but once I researched the power and torque a late model R200 can take, it was a no brainer.

     

    Look at any 240SX drift car in D1. Those cars make anywhere from 400 up to 600 HP. All those cars do for a living is spin tires and thrash around a track and I have yet to see a diff break on them.

     

    I apologize if I sound a little biased but I am still justifying the swap in my head. It takes a lot of guts to cut the crap out of your pride and joy but I know it will be worth it in the end. :-)

  9. Before you go trying to find a viscous LSD from a used 300ZXTT diff, how much power are you planning on making and are you going to be launching the car on slicks? If you are going to be putting more then 350 Ft-lbs through the diff, I would recomend getting a gear type LSD or clutch type LSD not a viscous. There are plenty of aftermarket LSD's available for the 300ZXTT and Nismo even offers one with everything you need to install it including instructions and gear lube.

     

    If you don't plan on making that much power...why would you even put the R230 in the car?

  10. After reading through all the posts I am amazed nobody has said this before. If you stiffen the old Datsun chassis you don't need to run as stiff a spring. There are numerous ways to do this depending on budget and class rules; bolt in roll bar with strut tower braces, fully welded cage, seam welding the chassis, foam, or any combination. 300# springs on a tweaking chassis are probably about the same as 225# springs on a stiff chassis. Plus the stiff chassis is much more fun to drive being more communicative and responsive.

  11. Honeywell does not own Turbonetics. Even if they did, they would have to have two differant engineering departments because there is no way a Garrett turbo and Turbonetics turbo are the same. All you need to do is look at them and you can see the quality differance. This is why we switched from Turbonetics to Garrett.

  12. All I can say is our racecar used to run Turbonetics...nothing but problems. The team used to have rebuild the turbos after every 3 pulls. Now we run Garret, The team has yet to rebuild them midway through the season. We also had a major power increase because of the efficiency gain using the same size turbos. When it comes to turbos, you get what you pay for. Check out our drag civic at http://www.aempower.com It's a full tube frame pro RWD car running a acura NSX V6 making over 1800 HP on methanol. 6.52@115MPH Not bad!

  13. We run Garret GT series turbos on our pro RWD drag car and I must say they have been the most reliable turbos we have ever used. The Ball Bearing turbos are fully rebuildable for not a lot more money and they spool much faster then a standard bushing style. Garret will be releasing a GT35R with an internal wastegate very soon (if they haven't yet). I would recomend this turbo as it is capable of 500 HP, spools very quickly on a 2.5L, will have the wastegate sized perfectly, and is one of the highest quality turbos on the market. Just my $.02 :-)

  14. I just ordered and received my ZG flares from MSA a few days ago. The gel coat on them is excellent' date=' but I'll be painting them anyway because scratches in paint are a lot easier to repair than scratches in gel coat. I haven't bolted them to the car yet, but initial trial fits seem like they will need some persuasion to bolt up correctly. I'm going to use 1/4"-20 nutserts and stainless allen head fasteners. I'll try to take some pictures of the installation and results when I do it, waiting on the nutserts to show up in the mail first.

     

    Mike[/quote']

     

    Thanks for the update. I look forward to your take on the fitment.

  15. Matt' date='

    Thanks for the info about Arias. I have been debating using off the shelf Wiseco's or custom made for my RB30DETT.[/quote']

     

    I also have had a bad experiance with Arias. I would recomend CP pistons. They will make anything you need. Pauter rods are also what I would recomend. They are a bit pricey but they are some of the best out there.

  16. Montoya, I see you're in socal. Why not just take a little road trip and check them out in person at MSA? And bring a tape measure! If you do this, please report the quality of the flairs to us on the board!!! And if you end up buying them you can throw the shipping cost out the window too!

     

    I was thinking the same thing. I will go check them out next week and report back here as to what I think about them.

     

    Also, I know my car is a 71 and CF might not look to the time period however I bet if people in 1971 had access to CF for their cars they would have had it on their cars. :-) Besides, my RB motor is not exactly period correct either....modernization is underrated.

  17. :search:

     

    No I have not had experience with the CF ones' date=' but man, for that price, you could buy the fiberglass ones from Classic Datsun and have them covered in CF. And they weigh 30 lbs too from MSAs ad!! Shipping must be a biotch.

     

    As for cutting, guys have done it both ways, but it really depends on what your tires and wheels will do under the car and how wide you are going--if your tire & wheel combo hits the fenders now, you have to cut, but if not, then don't worry about cutting anything. They attach with rivets or nuts & bolts. That said, do a search and you should find a thread by ON3GO, I believe, where all of that was answered.

     

    Davy[/quote']

     

    Thanks Davy, I am in the process of putting the 240SX subframe on my car and I am not sure yet what my wheel width is going to be. To be honest, I am not even sure if the ZG flares will be wide enough once I get a decent set of rubber on my car. I'll keep everone updated with pics as soon as I am done.

  18. Are the MSA fiberglass ones crap or are they fairly good quality? The only reason I want carbon fiber is because it will go with the look I am going for, however those are pretty pricey. If I can get away with wrapping the fiberglass, then that is the way to go.

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