v8dream
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Posts posted by v8dream
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v8Dream, do you have a blog site or set of pictures we can check out?
I do not have a blog or website. But I will try and post some pics soon. Frankly, you should be talking to lilredZ. His sounds like it would be much more impressive (I've only seen pics of it from a couple years ago).
Mine needs to be posted in the White Zcar thread. Looks good from 15 feet. Basically, my (limited) money went into chassis and getting it to a point of being a good track day car. Huge power was not a priority.
That said, its a hoot to drive. I built my first set of headers for it and they came out great.
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I'd be glad to let you look at/ride in mine. I'm also in Livermore. PM me if you're interested.
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There's a picture of Bob Murray's Z during the 2007 event in the new Car & Driver.
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/13001/2007-one-lap-of-america-more-entries-page3.html
Is he a member, or more to the point, does anyone know him? I'd really like to know about his car and what the One Lap tour is like.
Thanks in advance.
Larry C.
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I've drilled out the spot welds to remove the rear valence from the car and straightened it out on an english wheel. I've also done hammer/dolly work on the the rear valence. The most expeditious route would be to obtain a new one, and replace the old one.
Dragging this back up.
Anyone else have any experience with English wheels? I have a new MSA rear valence which is mostly flat and not curved correctly to fit the rear of my '73. Because it needs to be curved in two directions, I think an English wheel is just the ticket.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Tilton offers balance bars in three different thread diameters: 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2". Which diameter are you using? My initial aSSumption is that 3/8" should be enough. I didn't find any tech about this on either the Tilton or Wilwood sites.
Any help would be appreciated.
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I'm not sure where you're located, but there's a place I found in Oakland that does a lot of cars. I've seen everything from Jag XKE's to model A Fords in there. However, I don't think they shoot any primer. Oh, and don't be scared off by their name. They shoot other types of media besides sand!
Myers Sandblasting, Inc.
800 Moorpark Street
Oakland, CA 94603
510-638-0444
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...The air that goes over the hood is low pressure air' date=' good to vent to. Once the air hits the windshield it packs up and becomes high pressure.
If you want to vent the engine compartment, do it in the middle of the hood towards the rear, like where Nissan put the vents on the 280 hood. You could use the same deflector idea and shove the air up and out of the middle of the hood.[/quote']
Have you seen the pictures of the new Shelby Mustang? It uses functional vents in the hood. The article in the July '06 Hot Rod says that they were added after some of the FR500C racers lost their hoods due to the buildup of underhood air. They look to be placed about midway between the front edge of the hood and the base of the windshield.
The reason I believe this setup is worth considering is because the Mustang has a sharp front edge on the hood, very similar to a Z.
EDIT: I should have said that the Mustang has a large grill opening as well as a sharp leading edge on the hood, BOTH of which are similar to the Z.
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Don't measure to the engine mounts.
I had my rack/crossmember assembly on the bench while measuring everything. The rack on my car was not parallel with the crossmember to frame mounting holes, the centerline of the LCAs, or anything else. I have measured it with the original bushings as well as the MSA urethane bushings. One end of the rack housing (the part that actually mounts in the bushings) was about 5mm farther forward than the other. As I said earlier, there is no evidence of damage to the rack or member. It looks like it was manufactured that way, either intentionally or not.
EDIT: For grammer.
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Yep, like Jon said, they are designed for 2.5" springs.
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I was taking measurements on my '73 while designing a new crossmember and saw pretty much exactly what you described. I have not found any indication of accident damage to either the crossmember or the front of my car in general. So, maybe the same brilliant minds who designed in all that bumbsteer had a reason for doing this too? That seems hard to believe, but who knows?
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Honestly' date=' if I was building a car like yours for myself (which I actually am) I would do the following:
1. Shortened struts with coil overs.
2. EMI Racing camber plates.
3. Hyperco springs 200F and 225R.
4. Tokico Illumina shocks BZ3099 front and BZ3015 rear.
5. Suspension Techniques ARB kit 52095 (25mm front 19mm rear).
6. Off the shelf 15 x 7 wheels with 225/50-15 Toyo Proxes RA1s.
7. Replace all the suspension bushings with polyurethane except the rear bushings on the TC rod. Use rubber there.
BTW... the only difference between what I recommend above and what I'm actually going to install is spring rates. I'm using 175F and 200R. I've gotten older and I want my daily driver/autox/instructor car a little more comfortable.[/quote']
Wow! Substitute the Tokicos for Koni Sports (for a Rabbit) and EMI camber plates for a set from Design Products and you just spelled out exactly what I'm putting into my car. I am also going with the 175/200 spring rates. I haven't driven it yet, and was feeling a bit of anxiety about how the combination would work out. I'm feeling much better now. Thanks!
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Honestly' date=' if I was building a car like yours for myself (which I actually am) I would do the following:
1. Shortened struts with coil overs.
2. EMI Racing camber plates.
3. Hyperco springs 200F and 225R.
4. Tokico Illumina shocks BZ3099 front and BZ3015 rear.
5. Suspension Techniques ARB kit 52095 (25mm front 19mm rear).
6. Off the shelf 15 x 7 wheels with 225/50-15 Toyo Proxes RA1s.
7. Replace all the suspension bushings with polyurethane except the rear bushings on the TC rod. Use rubber there.
BTW... the only difference between what I recommend above and what I'm actually going to install is spring rates. I'm using 175F and 200R. I've gotten older and I want my daily driver/autox/instructor car a little more comfortable.[/quote']
Wow! Substitute the Tokicos for Koni Sports (for a Rabbit) and EMI camber plates for a set from Design Products and you just spelled out exactly what I'm putting into my car. I am also going with the 175/200 spring rates. I haven't driven it yet, and was feeling a bit of anxiety about how the combination would work out. I'm feeling much better now. Thanks!
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Sounds like the R4S pad.
Yes it is. I should have included that in my post.
As you can see, there isn't even any more pad in the little holes anymore. It was GONE. Was momentarily terrifying until I realized that the dirt off the side of the track wasn't very bumpy as I went into it at probably 95 mph.
That photo should be a sticky all by itself IMO. A good object lesson in the importance of matching pad material to the heat range generated by a particular braking system.
Jon, out of curiosity, how many laps/sessions did those pads last before you went farming?
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I got to thinking about this some more and getting the pads you want may be easier than I thought. Porterfield lists a pad for 240z's with Toyota 4X4 calipers as p/n AP-137 for $68.00. This is for a hi-perf street/autox pad which, according to them, is NOT suitable for track days. They have those too, but they are more money. Check out http://www.livermoreperformance.com as one source or call Porterfield for a dealer closer to you.
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crap neither does hawk, so that kills my options really quick down to zero
I got pads made for my 4X4 front calipers (vented) as well as pads for my Maxima rear calipers from Porterfield. All they need to know is the shape of the backing plate and what compound you want. They can help you figure the backing plate stuff out, too. And don't be afraid of "custom made". It really didn't cost that much over regular off the shelf stuff.
From what I have read on this board, Carbotech can do this kind of work for you as well.
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I'm running 16 x 10s with 5" backspace and ZG flares and you WILL have to cut and re-weld fenders significantly if your car is lowered to a ride height of 5". With 11" wide Hoosiers (275/45-16) clearance is also tight up front by the end of the front bumper, especially on the passenger side.
Back from the dead.
Okay. I have finally piled up enough money to buy a set of 3 piece wheels. I'm not sure if I'll go with CCW's of Kodiaks, but it will be one or the other.
Johnc, I have been looking at the photos of the R.O.D. on your website and want to ask you whether the ZG flares would have worked with your wheel/tire combination if you had moved the LCA pivot point laterally outward (for more camber and track width)? In other words, do you think that that change would have left enough clearance between the tire and the flare? I moved the pivot 1/4" outward while bumpsteering my car. Is that enough of a change to cause a clearance problem?
Also, what ride height were you running with that setup?
Thanks in advance for you help.
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If you think this is harsh you should see corner carvers
Cary
No kidding. For some real entertainment (ours, not yours), go over to corner-carvers.com and tell them about your crazy good shocks. One of the moderators is currently building a car and would no doubt be glad to consider your insights. Just be sure to start your post out with "Hey, Lewis!".
But right before you do that, let us know, okay? I'll need time to make some popcorn.
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If you think this is harsh you should see corner carvers
Cary
No kidding. For some real entertainment (ours, not yours), go over to corner-carvers.com and tell them about your crazy good shocks. One of the moderators is currently building a car and would no doubt be glad to consider your insights. Just be sure to start your post out with "Hey, Lewis!".
But right before you do that, let us know, okay? I'll need time to make some popcorn.
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Jon,
Excellent information! Thanks for your effort.
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Yes, just as if you're mounting an a-arm.
John,
What would be the practical effect of relocating the LCA some distance laterally and leaving the TC attachment point in its original position? This would make a pivot axis which deviates from the centerline of the car, and would create a mild version of a semi-trailing arm. I am not suggesting that this is a good path to take. I'm just wondering what the result would be and could it be detected while driving the car?
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I think I figured it out. The industry standard designation is 30209, sometimes with a "C" on the end. 30208 fits r180.
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My usually trustworthy machine shop guy just called to say that he had damaged one of the carrier bearings while trying to swap them to my new LSD unit.
Are all r200 ring gear carrier bearings the same? If they are not, does anyone have a part number?
My r200 is a 10mm bolt unit. No idea what year it was from because it was sitting in the passenger side footwell of my '73 when I got it. And does changing the bearings mean that I will need alternate shim thicknesses?
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Balancing: Wheels are lug-centric and cannot be spin balanced from the center pilot hole. (Center pilot hole is stamped and not machined to be concentric with lug holes.) Wheels must be spin balanced from the stud holes.
I don't think I have ever had an aftermarket wheel that wasn't hub-centric. Would a local tire shop have the equipment to spin balance using the lug holes instead of the pilot hole? Or are you stuck with bubble balancing?
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You beat me to it! Thanks for the pictures.
WTB: R200 with 3.36 gear ratio
in Parts Wanted
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I'm not concerned whether or not it is limited slip. Just want one in good condition. Thanks.