TheOrteganator
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Posts posted by TheOrteganator
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There is no specific guide that I know of for the L. You can buy the "How To EFI" books or search the internet for ideas. I had to search and search and read and read on this site to find my answers.
Look into http://www.extrudabody.com/ with a basic fuel/spark EMS would be nice. It all comes down to budget in the end.
Check out my Z build page for ideas: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135786
Unfortunately $1800 is not going to be in the budget anytime soon for a set of ITBs.
Without a doubt that's the way I'd like to go but I still have brakes, cage, and wheels/tires to do before it's track ready so those take priority over ITBs.I do agree that I should probably do something with more tuning capability like a MS setup, I guess I was just more drawn to the stock EFI since it would be plug and play and I'm not very confident in setting up my own system.
So basically to do the MS and similar setups you just need to link the different sensors and parts together with the ECU and set the parameters?
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Recently swapped a JWT 3.1 Stroker into my car, and after working with the timing and still running like crap I've decided to ditch the carbs and go to EFI. I've hated carbs for as long as I can remember and as great as I'm sure the triples can perform I just don't want to deal with them. With some tuning I'm sure I can be making far more power with an EFI setup.
What I'm looking for is a how to guide or FAQ or something to guide me on what parts I need and such. I already have an EFI intake manifold I believe from a 280Z, and it has the injectors (will probably replace to be safe) and everything attached to it but the harness is cut.
Tried searching but couldn't find any complete guide if there is one.
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Sounds like a good deal, if its in good shape. As for the exhaust, would it still be "tuned" if the carbs were changed out?
That's a very good point, and I did in fact think about that. For now I'm actually going to run my previous exhaust which was already extremely free flowing (custom built from ceramic coated headers/ 2.5" piping, resonator, and muffler) until I clean up the JWT headers and exhaust and get them ready to bolt in. I'll probably look to a different exhaust option in the future when I go to EFI and ditch the carbs.
Nice, don't forget to snOw some pictures for us.Will do. Already grabbed a couple pics and will have more once the swap is done.
If everything goes as planned the swap will be complete tomorrow. Just radiator, driveshaft, shift linkage, hook the starter. alternator and ignition back up, fluids, and then it should be ready for startup and driving if all goes well. Of course I'm going through and doing new cap/rotor, wires, plugs, oil, and filter before startup as well.
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Looked at putting my new engine in the car and realized that the factory linkage for the duals extends way too far forward fromt he firewall to hook up with the triples linkage, and the part wasn't included with the engine. Anybody have a source for the correct length linkage? Haven't found it anywhere online yet and Weber didn't answer their phones this morning...
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I DD my 260z everywhere here in the bay area....just enjoyed a nice drive on Skyline today, wish for you hybridz people to get to drive this spectacular road if your here.
These cars are extremely reliable if maintained, almost 200k and runs like a champ!
Send me a PM sometime and let's cruise.. I live in Belmont.
I used to DD my 240z but hated it. I came from a Z32 (which got hit and totaled by an unlicensed driver) to my S30 and just couldn't stand the lack of modern comforts and driveability. Fun weekend car but not the DD for me. I hated it so much that I've now resorted to bringing my 1991 Ford Escort GT back to DD duty until I get my SUV tow vehicle/DD.
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^^ You know I actually don't hate that. Not my personal style BUT as tail light swaps go it looks good, it's rare to stick a tail light where it doesn't belong and make it look good.
OP- keep going with your project. Even if it doesn't quite turn out as you originally planned you're this far in already and having a custom piece of work like that has a cool factor you can't even put a value on.
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Well it's a done deal... going to pick up the motor in a couple of hours. We settled on $2300 for the JWT motor, JWT exhaust tuned specifically for the Wolftrain, and a spare L24 that's he's throwing in for the hell of it. Saves me the time and headache of doing my own build- I'm just going to do a valve adjustment, timing, plugs, common to go bad seals, etc. to make sure I have no trouble once I swap it in.
I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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What's the difference between the real JDM tails and the cheap knock-offs? I would imagine both still have the same curve to them.
I doubt anything is different with the curve of the lights, although some Z32 owners have experienced fitment issues with them it really doesn't matter in that respect when you're custom fabbing them in anyway.
I'm just referring to the visual appearance of them. No real way to describe it so I'll just show you pictures instead.
Real OEM Nissan Tails:
vs. the knockoff eBay copies
The real tails just have a better look to them in my opinion. Not trying to hate and be a jerk pointing out your cheap knockoffs but I'm just saying I think it would look better if you are willing to spend the money on the real ones and swap those in instead of the knockoff lights. I used to own a Z32 so I've seen people buy the knockoff lights a million times without realizing and then wondering why theirs look different.
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I think it's an interesting idea, but it will look a million times better if you use real JDM Z32 tails instead of the cheap eBay knockoffs. Not sure if your body shop told you these were the real ones or what but the ebay knockoffs are not well liked in the Z32 community, and there's a reason for that. They look quite different.
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I just wanted to add that if you do rent a kit from Autozone or somewhere similar, DO NOT use the 3 prong to remove the pulley. I tried that first with mine and cracked the pulley. After it broke i figured I'd try again since it was already broken but it still would not come off, and cracked again. Get the correct bolts and mount to the inside of the unit to remove it.... no breakage and it is recommended in the Nissan manual. Luckily, I have a 240z parts car and can use the pulley from that...
Same thing happened with mine, I had the same pulley breakage as the OP and then when I used a claw style puller it broke the lip of the pulley off instead of actually pulling it off. No problem because I'm getting a new pulley anyway right? Wrong.. got the bolt in style pulley and correct bolts for the L crank (6x50mm worked IIRC) and bent the bolts and ran out of leverage using a pipe to turn it any more. All that pressure and the pulley still didn't budge a bit even after introducing a healthy dose of WD-40 and a bit of heat.
Long story short my crank pulley is somehow fused onto the crank and won't come off for anything. Poor car hasn't been driven in almost a month while waiting for it's new engine.
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EFI would certainly be nice but there are other priorities first since I'm only 18 and trying to build a track car on my own. The engine was never planned this early but getting this deal just happened to align perfectly with a broken crank pulley stuck on my L28's crank and it just didn't make sense to throw money at an engine I wanted to eventually replace anyway nor did it make sense to pass up this deal.
No idea why he replaced the Mikunis, he did a lot of additional head work to the engine so maybe it was something to do with that?
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Didn't sell at $5500, and it was a documented JWT build with receipts and the JWT Build/Serial Number Plate.
Why would he change to Webers from a set of sorted Mikuinis? That makes for a terrible blowthrough setup. The Mikuinis are far superior in the blowthrough application.
The EFI swap is not as expensive as you think. If the engine is complete, just a set of ITB's and you are on your way.
NEW ITB's can be had out of Australia in 45mm 'economy' packages with all linkage, tubes and pipes for fuel, TPS mounts, etc, for $1700 AU... meaning multiply by .82 to get US$ price. Shipping is minimal. I ran out of time to have my Pro set shipped to me while in country, otherwise I would have done that. Got busy with work and had no time to make the call and get them on the way. Too late now, leaving in a week and don't need $2000 of EFI hardware (state of the art or not) showing up behind me for the guys at RotEq to mull over 'Eeeh, what that bloke Tony have mailed to us here?'
Add megasquirt for $400 and you're styling with none of the carb headaches.
No idea why he changed to Webers, but in any case I do agree that carbs are terrible in general. He had a lot of additional headwork done so maybe it had something to do with that? Fuel injection and possibly ITB's will definitely be in future plans but being 18 I don't exactly have $1k plus to go drop on ITB's haha so I'll be dealing with carbs for a while.
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Thanks for the input you guys. Going to EFI is definitely in the future for this engine, but for now I'll be rolling with the Webers (he replaced the Mikunis) until funding shows up for the EFI swap. Do you recall how much the one on eBay sold for? I'm 99% sure I'm getting the deal of a lifetime on this engine.. don't want to say how much I'm paying until it's a done deal but factoring in the amount that went into this engine, the exhaust that's being given with it, and the fact that he's throwing in a spare running L24 for the heck of it he's really practically giving it away, seems like he's genuinely more interested in seeing it go to a good project rather than get a lot of money out of it.
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Don't worry, I'm not paying anywhere near $18k for it, that's just what he has put into it with the block from JWT and then the head work. I'm getting a hell of a deal on it if I buy it. Includes triple Webers and full JWT exhaust as well.
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About all the information I have is already in the title.. what can you guys tell me about this engine? I'm told it was an engine produced by JWT in the 90's based on a L28 and then bored/stroked to 3.1, I'm sure similar to the projects using the LD28 crank. I've been speaking with a guy who wants to sell me one with under 20k miles on it, $18,000 supposedly into the engine including the built block from JWT a few years ago and the headwork. Claimed 350hp.
Anyone know anything about it?
Without a doubt that's the way I'd like to go but I still have brakes, cage, and wheels/tires to do before it's track ready so those take priority over ITBs.
EFI Conversion Guide?
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Set the timing at 34* which from a few sources seemed to be about right, has terrible miss at high RPM and won't rev over about 3500-4000 under load. Needs carb tuning which I don't have half a clue to do or really even care to know, I'm new to the whole new retarded brainless car thing.
My friend is going to tune them for me and at least get it running decently but long term carbs are not something I want to deal with.