LSB_11
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Posts posted by LSB_11
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I would also like to hear if anyone purchased and installed one of these roll bars or cages. I also feel like younger what you pay for sometimes, but there are a couple roll bars that seem like decent options.
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Looks like you are doing fine, just get good penetration on top and bottom and keep the top of the plate pretty much like the old one was. It's my first time with weld in camber plate. It took me so long to do the front two, and like a third of the time to do the back two. You are on the right track
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Nice work, I'm about to embark on this task myself. This gives me alot of direction of how to cover a giant hole. Is there any structural rigitidy lost by just fastening the piece instead of welding it in?
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I just finished mine, I had the same questions about alignment. I found a topic on here somewhere that explained it well. But what I got out of it was perpendicular to center line so the caster would be the same side to side. Since your strut towers look to be off forward and aft on the car I would not go off any point of the front or a cross member. Everything seems crooked. Mine was a little of from a fender bender so I had lto find center line and try to put a square on it to line up either side camber plate indepently of each other. You can lay a strait edge ocross them an they are strait, just not perfectly occross from each other.
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That's what I was wondering, you can get the black face with white numbers to glow red. From the pics it seems a little dark or not enough contrast in the day. I think sitting there it looks killer, especially with the red stitching
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That looks killer. I am debating on the black with red numbered speed hut gauges. Can you take strait on shot of them, they look good.
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My brother in law said his friend had a car that looked like mine but had an original v8, but didn't say 240z on it. I asked if it was a scarab and he said that's what it said on the dash. I never got a chance to check it out and now it looks like I won't ever be able to. Don't know if this is the right place for this but its the original hybrid. And Joe is a great guy if anyone actually can afford it.
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Yeah, sourcing the q45 isn't hard but I feel that after buying every piece new and have that used is unique. I couldn't find one new for under 250. I found them used, and got new bearings but it would be.nice to have a compleate finished kit out back from one source. It also saves on cost for us to get a part that is used and fine to use, just not brand new cnc machined and pretty.
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I think we all wish t3 came out with what they have now earlier. Seems like they are coming out with more great stuff lately.
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Have you tested your starter? Just a thought. I don't know how you have your starter ran but is your solenoid burnt out? Is there power on both sides? Ground good? Like I'm sure you know.it's not that complex of a system so it might be in the vats. What method are you using for the vats removal and ecu tune?
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TTT has a front big break kit with several options of rotor styles. Very high quality stuff and you can't beat the customer service. Nothing like talking to the guy who builds it and knows everything when you call a company. They have amazing suspension parts too.
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I did a quick search and didn't find your build thread. What kind of power are you puting down?
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sorry about the poor grammar. and i did not see the drive train section i will be there shortly.
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hello, my name is Lewis, and this is my first post on this website. i am a newb to the 240z but am not new to swaps or modifying vehicles. i have done a full sr20det swap in a 240sx with nothing left untouched.
for my actual question, i am not that familiar with the 300zx and 240z rear ends. i am looking to swap an ls1 or ls6 into my 240z and know i will need to upgrade at least to the r200 and upgrade the halfshafts. i found a guy who has a complete rear end out of a 91 300zx, this is the whole sub frame with brakes and all. i was wondering how much of this 300zx will fit in the 240z, with or without modification. can i use the halfshafts, any of the sub frame, a arms, i just don't know the two cars well enough. and how much stronger is the zx parts? i do not think it is the ttzx.
just to get an idea of where i am going, i really like all the components from Arizona z car. i will most likely be putting in their mustache bar and dog legs out back along with all their suspension parts.
thanks in advance and i really love this site.
Advice on welding and car rigidity
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Looks great, the stock "raills" don't seem to do much at all. I removed the section you are talking about and the floor where the rail runs with Jack stand under the car and it didn't move a bit. I installed "subframe connectors" or rails that I just made up. They made a world of difference in the longitudinal rigidity. You look like you are doing a great job,