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Grungedude42

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Posts posted by Grungedude42

  1. Thanks for the replies. I looked at the common rust areas and I didn't see any rust. He said it was taken care of and it did look pretty good. I didn't see a spec anywhere. Sales are a little tough to monitor because there aren't any swapped ones like this so it is a little difficult for me to tell.

     

    So $5,000 for a nice Z? Would a rust free, straight body, strong L28ET with a bad transmission and cut springs considered a $5,000 car? If not, how much would make it worth it to you?

     

    If the tranny's no good, it will cost you anywhere from $50-200 to source a new one, and then you'll have to install it yourself or pay someone else to do it. For $5k, I'd want the car to be in turn-key condition with decent shine in the paint to boot. I'd offer him no more than $3500, and walk if he doesn't settle near $4200.

  2. If the dash is cracking, it is due to the underlying foam drying out and splitting. You can do a quick patch job with some black epoxy if you want, but a couple good afternoons in the sun will probably get you right back to square one. Two-part urethane bumper repair resin is what I used, after drilling the edges of the cracks, trimming the edges to square, and filling the void with spray in insulation foam. You need to use something that will flex without cracking or causing a seam, or issues will likely creep right back in. If that sounds like a lot of work (and it is), then a dash cap (either plastic or fabric) is your answer.

     

    Glueing the foam and pressing the edges back together will not work for long. The problem isn't the adhesive, it's trying to keep drying out and disintegrating 30+ year old foam from breaking at the joints. If you don't fill the negative space, you will have the problem returning in short order.

  3. I recently replaced most of the vaccuum, gas and coolant lines on my 280z. I picked up bulk hose of various sizes at a local auto store, bought new clamps of various sizes, and got to work. Most of the pre-formed hoses I found online were far too expensive, when compared to bulk hose that often runs around $1 a foot.

  4. You need to inspect both of them from the inside out, looking for rust, evidence of poor/skipped maintenance, and the general shape of the cars. Check if the 280z's AC is actually working, replacing busted components isn't cheap.

     

    Also consider your long term goals, as there are some significant differences between the 240 and the 280.

  5. Depending on how well it's running when you buy one, it may take several hundred just catching up on neglected maintenance and the like. I'm planning an RB swap on my '77 280z, and plan on a bare minimum of $8500. That's including motor, refreshing said motor, drive shaft, mounting kit, inter cooler, GReddy intake, gauges, big brake kit, you get the idea. This stuff isn't cheap, and it's not until you find all the problems the previous owner doesn't know about or tell you about when you buy it. It's a long haul project, if you want something fast tomorrow, buy something new. Cheap, fast, reliable, pick any two.

  6. Did you get your carpet as a kit, or are you doing it from bulk? I'm at the carpeting stage myself, and I'm looking for options. Also, where did you source your carpet? Nice build, I'm looking at putting speakers in my dash as well, and subs much like your install.

     

    Are you planning on leaving your subs exposed like that, or do you have a plan for obstructing them from the view of random passers-by?

  7. Just finished peeling the sound deadener off my 77 2+2 two days ago. I used nothing but a putty knife and a lot of elbow grease. In my case, I had a decent amount of surface rust on the floorboards, but not much under the deadener. I used a wire cup on my drill to knock the rust off, then painted with satin black Rustoleum.

     

    I plan on using a roll or two of Soffseal to insulate the car, and am still looking for a decent carpet kit for my 2+2.

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