[WTB Thermal Vacuum Valve (1982 280zx)]

Title says it all. I need one that works for a 1982 280zx. It has to be in good condition, and assure me that you have tested it using the directions in the haynes manual etc.

 

Rock Auto sells one for 70+$ and i do not want to purchase at that price...

 

I've had tons of bad luck with this car that just started looking good again, give me a helping hand ;]

 

 

 

Can someone tell me if these valves/switches are even necessary? Can i rid of the TVV completely and not be adversely affected?

I have a complete thermostat housing with both switches. Came off an 82zxt, they have the same housing and same switches, just different computer. The housing came off a running L28 motor. If this will work, I will give you the complete housing and switches for $50 o.b.o.

[Braking problems with '72 240z]

Did you bleed it while the car was running? Not saying you didn't, Just to make sure.

No, never have before and never had a problem until just now. It used to take a couple times around the block to get the pressure back. This time I have bled, and bled, and re-bled every bleeder screw that is possible. So, I guess I need to know why I have pressure with car turned off and when it is on, the booster seems to suck my pressure away. The one-way valve in the booster line is fine and the booster holds pressure until you release the vacuum.So the booster is holding pressure, I bled the Master Cylinder and all corners, no air came out, bought a re-manned Tokico Master. Is there something I am missing in the process, or any other ways to figure out the problem.

[Braking problems with '72 240z]

did you bleed the MC? Air could be stuck in there.

Yes, I had actually mentioned that. Even did it a few more times just to make sure, still nothing whatsoever.

[Braking problems with '72 240z]

I recently dropped my suspension on all four corners to replace bushings and what not. Everything is back together and now my brakes have gone to crap. I looked through a lot of threads and could not find sufficient info. to solve my problem. I replaced the MC and have now bled my brakes enough to go through three bottles of fluid, I bled the MC itself and all four corners, spit streams of fluid out just fine, no air. When I turn the car on, the booster sucks all my pressure away and my pedal is spongy until just above the floor, just enough to barely stop. Does any body have any ideas on what is wrong. Also, I had tons of brake before took it apart.

[Efficeincy of stock turbo]

Can anyone tell me what the max amount of boost a stock turbo will run? I am planning on around 12-15psi

[A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z]

Are you reading all of these posts thoroughly and carefully? It's for this very reason that new people get yelled at for not searching and asking for easily found answers. Nosebleed already posted this:

 

 

 

You can't blow off on a AFM or MAF system. You'll need to recirculate.

 

For the price of that MSA computer you could have a full stand alone... What are your power goals? I read 12 psi earlier but I don't really think you have a full plan yet.

 

If you start buying parts without having a well laid out plan it's going to get very expensive.

 

 

What do you recommend? I just purchased a used AFM/MAF thinking that I needed it, but obviously I do not need that. What computer system should I look into, the one you have or a different one. Basically, I am trying to get the max out of a stock turbo, until I can upgrade that, I figured that 12psi was probably about the range. What is the max efficiency of a stock turbo? I just bought an intercooler, small but used and cheap from stock mazda turbo. Any info. is much appreciated. This project is not going in any time soon. I want to spend time to make sure I modify everything properly, while keeping under my current budget. One more thing, how many people are doing the same thing as me, a lot. So, please don't get angry at me, there is a lot of s--t to read and I get lost sometimes trying to figure everything out. If I was done and knew everything, then I would post the answers for anybody, cause that is what we are all here for, but I am not done. Why not just tell someone the answer, if your there already looking at the thread, instead of making them search? Just curious

[A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z]

You need a 1" pipe plug from a hardware store to plug where the BOV is mounted in the intake. My advice is to remove it & plug it....it's pretty useless except in a "stock" level overboost situation (8-9 psi). Then you will need a compressor bypass valve mounted as close to throttle body as possible to blow off excess pressure during shifting & send it to the inlet of the turbo via the hose/ pipe between the AFM & compressor inlet...very easy! If you run a BOV on a car w/ an AFM, it will stutter from a rich condition shorly after shifting gears...not good. So, do some searching on the differences in plumbing, performance, & placement of the bypass valve. You can pick tthese up on E-bay or at a salvage yard for $20 or less from MANY oem turbo cars or buy an adjustable to tailor to your level. In short: Blow Off Valve for MAP EFI, Compressor Bypass Valve for MAF or AFM cars. Hope this helps!

 

I just looked online at some different bypass and blow-off valves. Apparently they are really the same thing, it just depends on if you let the air blow-off into the atmosphere or if you connect a hose to the inlet and re-circulate. So, I am planning on getting the turbo upgrade computer from Motorsport Auto, I assume I will still have to use an air-flow-meter. If so, then I need to bypass instead of just blowing off? Correct me if I am wrong please, thank you.

[A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z]

Pop off and blow off are 2 completely different things. Clearly you know the pop off is a overboost protection. On yours I think its set at 9 psi. You can crush it to make it open at a higher psi, or remove it all together and just get a boost guage.

 

Blow off is mainly for the turbo. With out one, all that pressure you built has to go somewhere when you let off the gas, and it goes back out the way it came in caused the turbo to rapidly slow, or reverse. That is a lot of stress on a turbo, espesially if you run higher psi's.

 

So the blow off valve releases the pressure when you let off the gas so it won't go back through the turbo. You will also benifit because the turbine won't slow as much between shifts and the boost will come back very quick for the next gear.

 

And last... they just sound cool.

 

Say I want to run 12psi on my setup when all said and done. If the pop-off valve is set too low on psi, exactly how do you "crush" it to make it higher? If I get rid of it all together, what do I have to watch for, since it is there for protection and how do I fill the 1.25" hole that it leaves. I found one thread somewhere that says to drill a hole in the valve plate so you can turn a like tension spring in and around the valve pole, thus creating double the psi needed to open. If there is no viable solution to keep it on, what can be done to fill or cover the humongous hole left?

[A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z]

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate all the great info on what to do and look for. Looking forward to some of this fun stuff when I have the money to put it all together. Also, something else I just thought of, the emergency relief valve on the intake manifold. Do I need to have one hooked up there for overboost protection or could I mount another blow-off valve there set to match the boost level that I will run?

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

Let me see if I can answer most of your questions:

 

I have some extra fuel injectors for sale in the classifieds.

 

You should be able to run the stock injectors up to about 12PSI - whatever horsepower range that will be. It may be beneficial to just go to an aftermarket engine management at that point (I use MegaSquirt II)

 

I am using a stock 240Z fuel tank with a surge tank. I have a fuel pump pumping fuel from the gas tank, to the surge tank, and then from the surge tank to the fuel rail.

 

You should be using a stock 280ZX Turbo distributor, it is the best one for an L-series engine. It will be the only one you can use with a 280ZX Turbo ECU and it is easy to get working with other engine managements as well.

 

P90 or P90A heads are fine.

 

What is the surge tank, where do you have it mounted and where do you find them? Oh yeah, and what do you know about the air regulator that I mentioned at the end of my last paragraph?

[A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z]

Stock fuel injectors are $35 a piece and are a borg warner race series injector. Would I need to upgrade from this or what horsepower range will these work til? I keep reading about the gas tank and how you have to get the one from a fuel injected vehicle. Is this true? Is there any other major components that anyone can think of that I should know? Flywheel, clutch, engine parts,etc... I have an electronic distributor from a '83 maxima wagon, an msd blaster2 coil, 5-spd. from '82 280zx, rear diff. from '77 280z, Electric fuel pump from '74 260z(i think),stock F54 block, a P90 head(non-hydraulic). As far as the head, Motorsport Auto told me that the P90 will work in place of a P90a and they said it was better because they have a wider range of parts available for the P90, is this true? One more thing, Motorsport Auto Also said that I need to have the Air regulator hooked up or the car won't idle. This is the unit at the front of the intake manifold with the electrical plug. Every setup I see online, does not have this hooked up or even anywhere to be found. Do i need this or can I get around it somehow?

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

Yeah, that pop off valve was for overboost protection, I believe. Just run a blow off valve and make sure that the wastegate on the turbo is working properly.

 

 

Stock fuel injectors are $35 a piece and are a borg warner race series injector. Would I need to upgrade from this or what horsepower range will these work til? I keep reading about the gas tank and how you have to get the one from a fuel injected vehicle. Is this true? Is there any other major components that anyone can think of that I should know? Flywheel, clutch, engine parts,etc... I have an electronic distributor from a '83 maxima wagon, an msd blaster2 coil, 5-spd. from '82 280zx, rear diff. from '77 280z, Electric fuel pump from '74 260z(i think),stock F54 block, a P90 head(non-hydraulic). As far as the head, Motorsport Auto told me that the P90 will work in place of a P90a and they said it was better because they have a wider range of parts available for the P90, is this true? One more thing, Motorsport Auto Also said that I need to have the Air regulator hooked up or the car won't idle. This is the unit at the front of the intake manifold with the electrical plug. Every setup I see online, does not have this hooked up or even anywhere to be found. Do i need this or can I get around it somehow?

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

Nope, you can get rid of all that vacuum junk. Look around for pictures of shaved intake manifolds. That's literally all you need.

 

For the TPS, though, you will need to figure out how to orient it correctly. It cannot be adjusted. You may consider just using the stock ZX throttle body because the 240SX one probably won't help with the stock electronics anyways.

 

 

 

Do I need to have an adjustable pop-off valve to replace the stock one on the manifold, or would a blow-off valve be enough?

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

Nope, you can get rid of all that vacuum junk. Look around for pictures of shaved intake manifolds. That's literally all you need.

 

For the TPS, though, you will need to figure out how to orient it correctly. It cannot be adjusted. You may consider just using the stock ZX throttle body because the 240SX one probably won't help with the stock electronics anyways.

 

 

 

Thanks, I appreciate the help. I'll be back when I have more ?'s.

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

No problem Idahokid, if you want to follow. I need to do some following of my own, since I do not really know what I am doing. I am very savvy with the 240z, but it does not have any computer, hence my need for information. If there is anything you can tell me short of the non-egr intake manifold, I would love to know. I am going to be using what I have, since I already paid for it all. One ? on the intake manifold that I have. I have an air regulator that is electronically monitored. I just spoke to an expert and he says to his knowledge I have to keep that hooked up so my car will idle properly. Is this true?

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

So, I don't need the purge canister, the vacuum modulator, or any of the valves on the intake manifold? The throttle body from the 240sx positions the zx TPS, 90 degrees to the left from original position. Do I have to re-adjust this somehow? Throwing another quick question in here. What do I use to bore out the intake manifold to match the size of the 60mm TB? THX

[Stock '83 280zx turbo swap into '72 240z]

I am wondering with the stock turbo swap into a CA non smog vehicle, what sort of smog, vacuum stuff on the intake/exhaust manifolds are necessary. I plan on doing some minor engine and head work for this turbo modification, but it is my first turbo ever and I want to stick with some stock specs until I learn more about this setup. I have the F54 block, a P90 head, and '83 electrical, smog, intake/exhaust w/240sx 60mm throttle body(which TPS do I use). I don't know what, if any smog or vacuum stuff needs to be there. I am looking for the most power and driveability with the stock turbo until I upgrade. Also, if you have any suggestions for me on what else I should do with what I have, please let me know. I plan on taking my time with this and would like to know everything I can about it before I f--k up anything. Lost in modification in Marysville,CA.

[Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels]

Standard 14x5.5, zero offset, custom painted by me to match paint scheme. Missing one center cap if anyone knows where to find one.