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boggero

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Posts posted by boggero

  1. Boggero:

     

    It is VERY DIFFICULT to have a less expensive reliable solution to 350 - 400 HP at 6000 feet of altitude. The cost is nearly the same for a 350 or 383 short block using a cast stroker crank. Then use 6 inch connecting rods and Hyper pistons which MUST be ceramic coated when Turbo/Supercharged. When using boost, the cylinder heads still have to FLOW an adequate amount of air. You might get by with Vortec Heads and a $2000.00 Vortec supercharger (4150 carb) kit from Summit Racing.

     

    Those works really good a truck just beat me with one in my work truck lol

     

    It has 6 months with the turbo and i am running it with only 5 psi

     

    2012-08-09_12-18-23_705.jpg

     

    2012-04-25_19-45-28_275.jpg

     

    It made 270 whp and originally it gave 160 lol

  2. Boggero:

     

    You are headed in a good direction on the engine. Rather than using a Turbo, just build a GOOD NA 350 stroked and bored to a 383. With good internals, good cylinder heads, camshaft, rocker arms and Induction you should be able to approach 500+ HP/TQ. See if you can find a salvage '96 - 99' Vortec SBC to rebuild. These has Vortec heads, roller camshafts, taller lifter bores and 1 piece rear main seal crankshaft. These block should have been CNC machined. They also had Electronic Fuel Injection which has a much more clean burn and less wash down of cylinders by gasoline and therefore much less wear. At the rebuild process it is just as cheap to bore and stroke to 383 cu in. Use Flat Top or Dished pistons to achieve appropriate static compression. The better the heads and camshaft, the better the power output. Make your decisions based on goals and budget. Air Flow Research (AFR) makes the best heads bar none. The better the research, the better the outcome.

     

    That is a awsome combo, Thanks!!!!! :D

  3. I want 350 to 400 whp but at 6000ft to do a n/a engine would be too expensive, that is why i am going to boost the car, I don't want a 5k 6k engine for a daily driver and weekend drag racing .

     

    I already saw it with my dad's camaro, It has all the goodies you can find lol

     

    Its a forged lt1 396 stroker with Afr heads and It needs nitrous to do 11s at this shitty dragstrip lol

     

    There is no traction in here :(

     

    My car has more traction at the street than in the dragstrip lol

     

    Ill probably do 12 secs lol but I would be more than happy with that e/t

    The fastest cars in here are doing 11s and 12s so I am going to be able to run with most of them and have fun :D

  4. I have 2 engines available for my 280z but I don´t know which one would be better for 8 pounds of boost.

     

    The one I am running right now is an old SBC with

    Vortec heads

    1.6 roller rockers

    antipump up lifters

    Dish pistons :doh: lol

    XE 274 cam

    Fluid damper

    274.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The second choice is a stock LT1 with only lt4 hot cam

     

    lt1.jpg

     

     

    The sbc needs to be refresh and would like to put a high volume oil pump and probably change the dish pistons.

     

    the lt1 doesnt need anything at all :huh:

     

    What would you guys do?? Help!

  5. I saw 2 camaros that raced 3 times in a row.

     

    One had a sts twin turbo it had 500 whp

    Second one had a lt1 with 210 whp

     

    The 3 times the camaro with 210 whp won,

     

    then i saw the dyno sheets of the sts camaro, and the power band with the remote turbos was real small , it had 500 whp only for few seconds.

     

    I don't know if it had to do with the tune or the size of the turbos but i haven't seen a remote turbo system that works as well as a regular one.

     

    I'm about to boost my sbc and theres plenty of room for everything, why would you want a remote turbo?

  6. Make sure the ignition advance is working smoothly. If it sticks then it will cause problems like you describe. 20 initial and 36 total would be nice for your setup. Then add another 10 degrees with the vacuum advance (get an adjustable advance). I would also recommend getting a good distributor, like a msd with adjustable mechanical advance and adjustable vacuum advance. A cheap distributor will lead to problems.

     

    I like the 750 holley 3310 carb with a regular Edelbrock RPM intake (not air gap).

     

    My wife is from guadalajara. Cool town with lots of pretty girls.

     

    Its a great town and you are right the girls are pretty cute the only thing is that the dragstrip sucks , they dont use glue, the cars are faster in the street lol

     

    Regarding my issue with the HEI i changed the coil and now its revving up to 6300 again and also the engine sounds and revs more smooth

     

    If it starts acting like before I'm going to put a coil outside.

  7. Hey boggero. Thats a damn nice bonnet you have. Its not stock is it. Where did you get it?

     

    I know an old guy that is good fiberglass, and gave him some pics of the competition scoop, cause im cheap and did not wanted to buy the real deal lol, he was going to do it pretty close but when i saw the hood that way, i liked it and left it like that, he charged me like 60 dollars lol

     

    2012-04-20_16-53-38_655.jpg

    2012-04-10_19-00-22_67.jpg

     

    2012-04-10_17-56-56_405.jpg

  8. The websight

     

    xclusivekoncepts.com.

     

     

    Their stuff on ebay.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/150615295045?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_949

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/150808536896?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_506wt_932

     

    Just curious if anyone has any reviews. most are positive on ebay

     

     

    I bought the air dam and the bumper from Oscar, UPS messed up but he did send it on time, and i like the way it looks

     

    2012-04-20_19-51-53_179.jpg

     

    2012-04-20_19-51-10_201.jpg

     

    i had to sand the bumper because it was still fresh and had marks from the packing stuff, but he is good

  9. I have another question, i have been searching but can't fine anything.

     

    I have a b&m torque converter and they say its a 2000 rpm stall, with my old heads and old cam i was able to rev the car to 1700 rpm and launch from there, but with the vortec heads and new cam , it onlt revs to 700 rpm and starts moving.

     

    Oh and i haven't touch the tranny lol

  10. Take the top of the carb off, remove the boosters and clean air bleeds. Make sure all passages in the boosters are clear.

     

    It does miracles when you do that right? Lol thats the only pain in the a$$ with edelbrock carbs.

     

    The ones i never cleaned before were the passages of the idle screws and those were giving me the problems :)

  11. either one as long it is a source for engine vacuum. Just make sure you have suction from whatever port you are running the hose to... it should be good for a min of 12* of timing advance with that hooked up which is huge help on fuel efficiency and cooling while at idle and cruise

     

     

    Im going to connect it in the afternoon, I saw your built thread its awsome, also saw the grenades on your youtube, those cars inspire me to boost my car lol

  12. also what is your base timing set at and what is your total timing?

     

    yesterday i bought a timing light and fixed it a little bit lol :blink: i had the initial at 25 degrees and total of 35 degrees, so i put it at 18 initial and also changed the springs of the HEI and its giving 38 total, and its running alot better, also remove the damn spectre air filter and it ran so much better, now i need to do an spacer for that hat, just for few months while i get all the parts to turbo de car B)

     

    The issue with the carb was that, there was debris inside of the little holes where you screw the idle screws. :angry:

     

    also i live in guadalajara that is 4900 feet so i tried bigger carbs but i lose a lot of torque, and for a daily driver the edelbrock is really economical hahah

  13. I would definately look into trying another carb, do you have another?. Or maybe a friend will let you swap his, with yours to see for sure. Is this a vacuum secondary carb?.

     

    Check for vacuum leaks all over the intake, engine, and brake booster hose.

     

    What ignition and distributor are you using?.

    its a regular chinese Hei, im going to change it on monday, a friend of mine has several carbs at work, I'm going to try some of them and i think there are new HEIs, gonna try another one.

     

    Already changed the hoses and sprayed carb cleaner everywhere lol, also i just sprayied the holes of the air screws and its work great. Let see. How is going to work in few hours lol

     

    Hope it works, im about to boost the **** out of it lol so i can get the ticket i want hehe

     

    2012-05-17_18-40-25_248.jpg my dad just bought that turbo for a Ram charger, but if he doesnt start to build the pipes soon, ill have to borrow it fo lr a while haha

  14. Hi guys, i have been trying to get a good et ticket but sometimes my engine runs good and the next day it doesnt but i don't know whats going on.

     

    There are days that the engine revs up to 6300 with no effort and it pulls really hard until there, the next run it only revs to 5000 rpm and its like it hits a wall and wont pull anymore.

     

    Also the days it revs to 6300 i can tune the carb with the idle screws and works perfectly, the days it doesnt rev its really rich and the idle screws doesnt work.

     

    I always have the engine around 650 rpm at idle, i have been trying to find a vacuun leak the days the idle screws doesnt work, but cant find anything

     

    Here are the specs

    Sbc with stock vortec heads , comp cams xe274

    Edelbrock 600 cfm carb

    antipump up lifters

    And a b&m torque converter of 1800 rpm

     

     

    Any ideas of whats wrong? :( I just can't find whats wrong with it.

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