81280zxtc
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Posts posted by 81280zxtc
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DanJ,
I think I have a set of 5 star Momo's in the garage that may fit.
4 lug pattern, 16 x 7's. The had some Bridgestone Potenza RE-71's which were the tire of choice back in the day, but were worn and removed.
These came in the trunk when I picked up the car from a friend.
If interested, I'll see if I can get you pics.
Let me know
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Hi,
There is an front brake upgrade kit available for the zx. I just installed one to replace a 15+ year old Wilwood set up on my 81 ZXT.
jskinnovations.com
The person to speak with is Juan.
He supplies a kit with the caliper brackets, hub / hat adapters and hardware.
He gives you the part numbers to the Wilwood components to order, and you are set.
The installation was a little confusing at first, but once you figure it out, it's pretty straight forward.
Anytime I had a problem, I called Juan and he was very helpful.
If you want to discuss, call me 917-682-2000.
Rob
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I just completed a front Wilwood Caliper set up with 12.2" rotors. JSKinnovations.com sells a complete bracket & hat kit.
The install was a little hard, but once you figured it out, it was pretty straight forward.
I'll check back to see how it went.
I'm going to try to get pics up in my album in the next few weeks.
Good luck.
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Brandon,
Thanks for the info. I just realized the caliper brackets were modified, so I'm looking for strut assemblies.
I've searched a few pages, and very very expensive.
I'll try the used sector first. If you know of anyone parting out an 81 or 83, that would help alot.
Thanks for the reply.
Rob
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Fellow ZX owners,
I have run into a problem. I had a very old Wilwood brake set up on my 81 ZXT which I tried to have serviced in time for the Z meet in CT this week. To make a long story short, the set up is no longer in Wilwood's system, and I had to go with an entirely new set up because of parts availability.
I searched the net and found a company called JSK Innovations (jskinnovations.com) who makes brackets that mount on the existing caliper mounts, as well as hats for the rotors. I had ordered a kit, along with the recommended rotor and caliper parts and began the installation.
Upon completing the install, the caliper does not clear the ball joint / end link connecting the spindle. If I reverse the brackets, the caliper sits about 1/4" too high. From my recollection, I think the 81 (production date of 5/81) is different from the rest of the ZX's produced in regards to brake parts from an 82 or 83 set up.
If you peruz his web page, http://www.jskinnovations.com/datsun.htm and view this z with this set up: http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=77586869&albumId=1140351
You can see that the caliper sits way up on the strut mount no way near the steering linkage.
I've called JSK's and we're both scratching our heads on this. He's installed many kits without hiccups, and this is the first one he's come across that has this issue. He's offered to come to the city from Albany to try to figure this out, but I want to confirm his thought of the strut being different.
The question I'm posing, are the strut assemblies on later model zx's 82's / 83's different from an 81 in regards to the mounting of the caliper? Spindle attached or separate?
If all this holds true, is there anyone who can recommend where I can locate parts?
Thanks in advance.
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No not 'junk oil' whatever the heck that is.
Just use regular oil' date=' I believe the recommendation is to use straight 30 weight oil for break in? I use Castrol 30w for the first 1000 miles then switch over to Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30.[/quote']
As far as "junk oil", I don't know what junk oil is and wouldn't take a chance on using it. When I finished my rebuild, I bought a Motul engine oil that had no detergents or coking agents in it for break in. It was a natural oil that was almost clear and used it for about 700 miles. My understanding that oils with detergents are not supposed to be good for a "fresh" engine.
My .02
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Did you pull the dip stick to see if you have coolant in the oil pan mixed with the oil? If you don't, I wouldn't worry much. Water drop-lets out of the exhaust is normal, but if you see alot of white smoke while running for a bit, or acutally smell coolant from the exhaust, then you have a problem.
Check that out first..
my .02
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I guess I going to go for the pre luber. I like the idea of the accusump that it can provide some oil if you drop pressure suddenly, but I've had a bad experience once and wouldn't want to have it happen again.
Most likely I'll purchase and install mid spring. Will keep you all posted.
Thanks for the replies.
Rob
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Fellow Z buffs,
I have always been concerned with pre oiling and oiling after shutdown. I would always want some type of oil pressure build up before the motor actually turns over. Sometimes, if the car was sitting for a long period of time, I would pull the coil wire from the distributor and "start" the motor for a few seconds at a time, just to get oil distributed in the motor. I have found 2 sytems, one by accusump (http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html), the other by this company Pre-Luber (http://www.pre-luber.com/)
Which set up would you choose? I was leaning towards the pre-luber...your thoughts?
Thanks..
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http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1333&sort=1&cat=500
I posted the latest dyno results in my photo album...but can't get to to load on this page..
Gonna need help again.
I made the file smaller than the last so if you need it bigger to see better, let me know...I'll try to resize it...sorta new at this...
Thanks
Admin Edit:
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Can anyone help? I tried to post the last dyno results in my gallery and upload them (someone has to teach me how) to the forum. There's a message that tells me my gallery is too big, and I need to down size some photos for more space. I tried to edit my gallery, but no luck. Can someone guide me thru the process? I would really like to post the last dyno results for your opinions.
Thanks in advance
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Wait a minuite' date=' what did I miss? SMALLER exhaust housing???? Why would you do that? It would make less power, and add even more backpressue into the intake manifold.
I don't think that's the best idea.[/quote']
Not the actual downpipe, but the exhaust side of the turbo. I had the car out yesterday and the boost came on strong but high in the rpm band, around 3300-3500 or so (first time in a long time I got sideways). I would like to try a smaller housing to see if I can get the turbo to spool sooner so boost can come on sooner, like in the 2600-2800-3000 range, so at least I have 3000 more rpm to play with, not like now where I'm limited to the 2250 I have now. Make sense?
I have a print out of the last dyno run from Saturday which I will try to post later today. Take a look at the curve and let me know what you think.
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It has been said time and time again' date=' The best exhaust on a turbo car is no exhaust! Id say drop the exhaust system off from the downpipe and do a run like that, brings some earplugs tho! Im predicting a night and day difference.
Mack[/quote']
Mack,
I have a "straight thru" system now it's pretty darn loud now, can only imagine what it would sound like. I have researched the exhaust market (HKS, Borla, Dynomax) and the only set up I would consider would be a dynomax 3" in / 3" out, or even a 3" in and (2) 2 1/2" outs. I would love to come across a HKS Dual Dragger muffler, like the one they made for the Supras, and the one they have for the 240sx. Too bad the exhaust is routed to the wrong side on the sx.
I know it may seem silly to debate exhaust preference, but I'm trying to preserve a certain look to the exterior appearance. I coulld opt for a number of aftermarket exhaust systems out there, but why look like a typical Civic or a "rice boi". I will inquire at a local speed shop for pricing on the exhaust and pipe fabrication.
I took the car out of the shop today. There was a problem with a sewer system on the block where the shop is located and I didn't want to chance anything happening to the car, so for the 1st time in more than 6 years, I drove it out of the shop, instead of having it towed. It felt great. For now, I'll bring it to the interior shop where they can finish up my door panels and re line my headliner, and in a few weeks, make the trip back to get the kinks taken out, and maybe have some better news for all of you. I will try the 3" exhaust before I swap out the exhaust side of the turbo for a smaller a/r.
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I hsve done some good testing on my turbo setup' date=' you may want to check out my page to give you some ideas.
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt[/quote']
Thanks for the reply. I had come across your page via link sent to me by a forum member a few days ago. I printed the dyno sheet you have posted on your page and showed it to the person tuning my car, he looked at the graph and brought to my attention it was all "all over the place", no consistent curve to follow. Although your setup is radically different, bored block and ld crank, it's unique to say the least, and I thank you for trying to help.
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With 112 octane' date=' you would want to tune the car leaner than what's safe on the 93 pump gas. IF you are rich like in 11.5:1-12:1, you actually will lose HP since the fuel can't burn completely.
I think standard Turbonetic 60-1/t3 comes with .63 A/R and 10 blade stage III.
I was seeing full boost in my car with 60-1 @ 3500rpm with 11 blade 60-1. on the dyno the torque peaked little before 4K rpm where the boost was spiking.
Slow spool up can be caused by a small boost leak. I would check that if you haven't.[/quote']
I will have the car tuned to accecpt 93 pump gas when all is said and done, but I want to know the potential of this set up. This has been an ongoing project for close to 4 years and I'm just happy its finally drivable. I think my a/r on the exhaust is larger than the .63. I am trying to look for the receipt and toe tag from the turbo and give Turbonetics a call to see if they could help. On page 2 of the forum, there is an uploaded dyno sheet of my first few runs. The curve is pretty smooth, no spikes or dips. Originally, I had a Cartech wastegate installed which had a weak spring and started bleeding boost at around 180hp, so I went out and purchased a Tial 38mm gate w/ a 1 bar spring to support boost. I would assume that if there were a leak somewhere, either in the intake or exhaust to cause spiking, it would be present on the sheet. There is no sputter or hiccup in the acceleration what so ever during dynoing. Smooth and strong, but it seems to fall short when it reaches close to 6000, and don't what to push it past that point..the last thing I need is to go "back to the drawing board". Hopefully, I'll have better news Monday to post.
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I'll try to answer Tim, Clifton's, and Scottie's questions here..
With the smaller a/r ratio on the exhaust side of the turbo, I wanted to see if the turbo would spool sooner. I was under the impression that since the boost is coming on late I'm either running out of engine or the turbo is not sized correctly. If the numbers change for the worst, I could always put it back the way it was.
Clif, I don't remember what the a/r ratio on the turbo was, I purchased it almost 2 1/2 years ago and I don't have the sheet that came with it from Turbonetics. I'll have them take a look and let you know with an update. I'll also try to get the AFR #'s and post them too and see if the tuner can factor in the corrections on the dyno.
Scottie, I'll try your advice to see if I disconnect the exhaust at the point where the 2 meet and try to redyno. I'll also see if we could do a 4th gear pull too, which I don't see it as a problem since I've seen them done before in the shop. I thought you needed some type of backpressure with these engines to create torque? If I'm wrong, please let me know. It's hard to find a nice exhaust with out going custom and paying for it thru the nose. I would like at some point to change it out to 3" all around, but the exhaust I find ideal is the HKS dual dragger exhaust they had on the Supras at one point in time. I just love that set up, but can't seem to find it around anymore. If I come across one, I would definitely go that route.
Gents, thanks again for all the input. Your posts are greatly appreciated.
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OK....Capped off the factory pop off valve and re tried the dyno. Same HP results. Did a little more tuning, and raised the boost to 24 lbs, and came up with 345 HP / 320 torque. Looked at the dyno curve and noticed that boost was coming on later in the 3000 rpm range and was topping off at around 5500, which led myself and the tuner to believe that the exhaust housing on the turbo was too large in size to create boost at a lower rpm range. We will try installing a smaller a/r exhaust housing to see if we can get the car to spool sooner.
Will update you when finished.
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1) 6250 is a conservative rev limit. 6500 is probably more popular.
2) Depends on your fueling.
3) At full boost you should be around 20-24* total timing if possible.
4) Factory intake can support much higher than stock numbers. However' date=' significant improvements have been made by swapping it with a better flowing one. No aftermarket ones are available at the moment as far as I know.
5) Almost all these questions have been answered before and doing a search on each will educate you much more than this response will.[/quote']
Thanks for the input. I had tried to search the forum for some help, but sorta came up short w/ answers.
I'll try the 6500 rpm as a cut off. The shop set the cut off @ 6000 to be consertative and safe. The last thing you want is to overspeed.
As far as fuel, I have enough w/ plenty more to go. The 12 injectors are set up for the second set of 6 to come on under boost so I feel confident that I'll have enough fuel for more boost when we re-test.
As far as the timing goes, I'll pass that information on to him to see where he wants to try. Right now it's set @ 22 degrees. I think I'll try a higher boost setting before trying to advance timing..just to be safe. The Haltech is set to retard timing 1 degree when coming off the gas to prevent a major catastrophe. I'll follow up with the numbers in a later post.
I was thinking of getting the intake extrudehoned for better flow, but am afraid it doesn't work the way I want, I'll ruin a one of a kind intake.
Thanks for taking the time to reply...all your help is greatly appreciated.
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Did you plug your pop off valve hole yet? a completely stock motor' date=' just with the boost wicked up should be good for almost 275rwhp-ish on stock everything.
also, do you have a Air/fuel ratio graph yet? that'll give us a LOT of instight as to what is going on with your motor.[/quote']
I'm going to remove both this weekend and make blocking plates to cap off.
I will try to see if I could print the a/f graph from the Haltech and post it too.
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Could part of the problem be the dyno/run? What gear was this pull done in? The graph is showing MPH not RPM and it looks like 5250RPMs occured at about 74mph. If this was 3rd gear with a 3.70 and 25" tire' date=' 5250 should be more like 82mph by my calculation. Now if he is running a 3.90 it would be closer to the dyno sped and of course a 3.54 would make it worse.
Am I off base or is this a consideration?[/quote']
The dyno pull was in 3rd gear. Tire size was 245-45R16, so I'm not sure of the diameter. I don't recall what rear ratio I have either.
The tuner had some questions that maybe you guys could help answer:
1) What would / is the max RPM range for this motor?
2) What would be max boost level for this engine?
3) How much timing can it hold / run w/ 22 lbs of boost or higher?
4) Does the factory intake have enough flow to support higher than stock HP numbers, or is there an aftermarket substitute?
If I could get some help with these answers, he could tune it more aggressively vs conservatively.
Thanks in advance.
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I have posted the dyno results in my album...I can't seem to upload them to the message board...
Please take a look and let me know what are your thoughts.
Thanks.
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I would seriously check tuning' date=' timing, or something. Having a 2.5" exhaust would increase the torque the car makes, because of the back pressure.
I would check compression, and make sure the turbo is still good, along with plugs, and tuning. Something is definatly NOT right.[/quote']
The bottom block is brand new. Found it at a dealer about 6 years ago still in the factory crate. I have not checked compression, but the car idles smoothly, and there is no hiccup when you get on the gas. After the last dyno run, we pulled the plugs and they were clean, not black or white. The turbo is brand new, I've had it for about 18 months, and it was packed in its box until the day of install. I checked the shaft and it's solid, no play or wobble.
I was wondering if there could be a leak in the intake or something. The stock "pop" off valve and boost regulator are still on the intake, but are not connected. I was thinking that those things are bleeding off intake pressure? Could I be right / wrong? Would I be better off capping/pluging them off?
I was assuming that I would be making at least 400 hp at the rear wheels with all the mods and especially running on racing gas. The other thought I had was the wastegate was creeping boost. They were using a turbo xs manual boost control valve to actuate the waste gate, but I think with the EVC properly installed, the car should put up better numbers.
What else can I check?
I'll try to import the dyno sheets and post them...tomorrow...
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The block is a stock block w/ an HKS 1mm metal head gasket. I do have ARP fasteners for the head.
The intake was modified by Corky Bell who used to own/work at Texas turbo some many moons ago. It's actually very nice.
My pics are posted on the photo section of the forum for anyone to view.
I would appreciate comments or suggestions.
Thanks to all.
Rob
280zx fiberglass body panels
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
The only company I knew that made fiberglass panels was Kaminari. I had called them some time ago about replacement body kit parts, and was told the molds were sold.
I had a set of fiberglass panels for the front and rear, which mimicked the electromotive racing car. I had left them at a friends house and they were destroyed accidentally.
I'll post pics.
My suggestion would be to see if you could pick up spare fenders and rear 1/4 panels to make your molds. It would probably give you time to perfect your panels.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.