S15 200sx owner
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Posts posted by S15 200sx owner
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Looking forward to seeing this.
So am I! As i have all the same parts sitting in the garage to be used on my build.
I have also been wondering about the main driveshaft CV at the rear.
Keep us posted.
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I like the last few seconds!
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Talking to a mate of mine in the UK this morning, a work mate of his is after a RB30 shortblock for his skyline.
I seem to remember someone in the UK had imported some RB30's a while back, just wondered if one of you have one kicking around surplus that you would be willing to sell this chap, rather than him having to import another one.
PM if you have something.
Cheers,
Clint
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Interesting thread guys, watching with great interest, as I am still considering weather I go with a TTT type backplate setup to use the Z32tt/R32 GTR rear hubs/outer cv's or weather i go with the new improved MM stubs with the larger dia and more splines, and matching companion flanges to suit the big 6 bolt Cv's
Keen to see where you all go with this.
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Hi Guys,
I am in Australia and i have a 71 240Z (series 2) which i am putting in an RB26, and trying to work out the best way to do this rear end. It seems that the 300ZX Z32TT diff is not a simple bolt in, so what is the next best option?
should i be looking at an Sylvia S15 R200 rear end (with Quaiffe style LSD), or short nose R200 from an R33/R34 Skyline (GTR or GTST?). we don't have the Q45 or armada here
will the rear brakes and hand brake assemblies and hubs work out of all these cars? or will there be modifications required? or am i better sticking with the Z32TT hubs, brakes etc. with whatever diff is available (ie. S15/R33/R34)?
are there any issues as my car has the earlier forward front diff mount?
i presume the axles would be the heaviest part of the set, any idea on what they weight?
I am using the short nose R200 MLSD from the rear of a R32 GTR, it has the same large 6 bolt inner CV's as the Z32 TT R230. It is physically smaller and lighter than the R230, and certainly should be up to the job. Its ratio is 4.11:1
Mine is a race car and i am solid mounting the diff via bars from the roll cage going thru the floor.
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Already being discussed in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122079
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Just for reference:
Has just been retuned at 17 psi - 330hp @ wheels and 280flbs torque at 4,500rpm
As mentioned in my post above - this engine is in a Datsun 1200 coupe, so lighter than a s30.
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Have you ever driven a car with floor mounted pedals? I wouldn't use them unless it was absolutely necessary. YMMV.
I agree, VW beetle and classic 911's have floor mounted pedals, and it sure takes a bit to get use to it.
Even tho I love driving my Porka, i still prefer pedals hinged from above
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Stealth-Z, I am very sorry to hear of your situation. I could not imagine not being able to do one of my loves, driving. - I feel your pain.
As for the best/quickest/most financial return in selling the engine. In my experience it would be to part it out.
It's generally easier to find a few people that can pay a little, than one to pay the lot.
And as already mentioned above - You will probably realise more cash in the end.
It is a shame you are letting it go, after piecing together what sounds like a very good engine.
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For those in the lower part of the world, i have been talking with a fibreglass motorsport company in Australia, they make many FG parts for Z's, they are currently working on FG doors.
They said they will weight approx 4-5kg each and will only cost approx $330 AU$ each, which IMO is extremerly cheap. (Compared to the Jap made ones - where you need to re-mortgage the house to buy them!)
Will be avaliable for sale in approx 3 months. They also said if you wanted any of their parts in CF it will be 3 times the FG price.
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Could the dual unlet port head be ported to take away the wall between the ports to make it one big port?
Even if this was possible, you wouldnt want to do it, you would totally loose velocity and it probably wouldnt produce power below 13,000rpm
A stock A12 engine would probably make more power
Go have a read of the Sticky Thread by Matt Hutchens about building a RB26, he talks about porting the RB26 head, I guess this would loosely apply to a CA18DE as well. He says DO NOT increase the size of the port, just clean it up etc and remove any lips and imperfections from the casting and original machining. Its interesting.
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It's great to have you back posting here Matt. Thanks very much for sharing this with us. Looking forward to future installments.
Much appreciated.
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No, mine were totally stripped.
Sweet as, that will be it then. Cheers.
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That's a lot of filler!
Here's the thread where Clifton discussed his FG doors. He says "probably under 10":
Yeah, looking at the panel on the inside, it doesnt actually appear that there is that much, but, I still have a 7 lbs difference between my door weight and your figures?
Who knows....
Jon, when you weighed them at 17 lbs, did you have the outer door handle, door lock mechanisium and window frame all fitted?
If you didnt, this would explain the 7 odd lb difference.
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I have only skim read the 3 pages of ramble.
But what i do know is that a good friend of mine has just rebuilt a CA18DET.
These engines came with two types of cyl heads. The head with only one inlet port per cyl flows heaps better than the head with 2 smaller inlet ports per cyl.
He had the duel inlet port head on the first build and stock cams. It made 160hp at the wheels on 16psi.
He has now rebuilt the engine with the single port head (very minor porting job) and has fitted mild 260 deg duration Cams.
Nothing else changed on the build, apart from billet rods and Forged pistons (but they dont make HP)
It now makes 160hp at the wheels on only 4 psi, and has just been back on the dyno today at 10 psi and made 276hp at the wheels. With a pretty safe tune (it can have some fuel taken out of it and some more advance added) it should easily go over 300hp at the wheels then.
It runs a cheap Chinese SS low mount manifold with a garrett GT series turbo (cant remember the actual model) and bigger injectors etc.
This engine is in a Datsun 1200 coupe, so a nice light car - And apparantly goes VERY well. He reckons it is scary. I should be getting a ride in the next few weeks.
Just thought i would share.
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So, you are saying that my brand new rear pan sump and pickup still in the boxes are worth their weight in gold now!!
Hell who would have thought investing in engine oil sumps would have paid off.......Shame I didnt buy 10 of them
Edit: Just to confirm, I don't have any surplus sumps avaliable for sale, sorry.
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Ok,
I have just weighed a totally stock 240z door (including the door trim panel) at 23.65 kilograms (52.14 lbs)
And my stripped and cut out door with the glass frame bolted back on but no glass (but havnt cut the planned holes yet) at 11.05 kg (24.36 lbs)
So a total weight saving of 12.6 kg (27.77 lbs) per door, so thats over 25kg (55 lbs) for a pair of doors, and i reckon thats pretty good. - Its like taking one of the doors right off!
There appears to be a bit of filler in the bottom of my door too, maybe 10 lbs of it going by the 17 lbs that Jon mentions above
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Yeah even the 240 doors (which are the lightest of the 3) are still bloody heavy in stock form.
People that have never lifted a door that has not been attached to their car will sh!t themselves when they first realise the weight of these things - Crazy!!
I could go weigh a totally stock 240 door for a comparison.
You guys with the 280z doors will save way more weight than me as the side intrusion bars in them are huge is comparison to the 240 ones - HUGE!
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Now go after the hinges as they weigh quite a bit and should be able to be made considerably lighter with the lighter door weight.
Cameron
Yes, they are still bolted onto the car, however they do look like they are cast and quite heavy.
There was someone on here who had some alloy hinges cnc'd up, they looked sweet, and would be the go - But probably very expensive for the weight saved.
I will see what i can do with the stock ones.
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So, how much weight did you end up cutting out?
I have made an edit to the first post, after weighing the cut out material.
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Wow - Totally Breathless - That is beautiful!!
Fantastic job, So great to see a Zed being built to this VERY high standard!
Look forward to the updates, and many many pics and vids of it completed.
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Hi there Guys,
I attacked the doors off my racecar today. I was wanting to reduce the weight of them as much as possible. And after reading a couple of other threads on here, i got into it.
I had already removed the glass and regulator, so now I cut out the whole inner panel, but left the side frame to give the door some stiffness (On another previous racecar - Not a Zed - I only had the outside skin and if wobbled and flexed all over the place at speed - Not ideal)
Once the inner panel was gone, i then removed the little stiffning bar that ran the lenght of the door, hard up against the skin. Cant really call it an intrusion bar, as it is pretty light pressed steel.
This came out pretty easy really - Undo the two scews at one end, and then drill out the two spot welds at the other end - Too easy.
The next task is too cut/punch some holes (using chassis punchs) in the rear end and bottom part of the frame (as per the red circles on the photo) Dont really think i wanna cut holes in the front part, as the hinges attach there, and i should probably leave that a bit stiffer to support the weight of the door, all be it reduced.
I simply used a 1mm thick cutting disc on a 115mm angle grinder - They work very well - Like a hot knife thru butter
Just got to clean up the edges now, and eventually after painting i will push on a strip of rubber molding over the edge to tidy it up, and not have a sharp edge.
For those wondering how i will open the door from the inside, i will simply attach a pull cord from the lock lever accross to the front end of the door - Just like Ferrari did on the F40
Nice and light.I do have two sets of doors for this car, so i can put the other stock set on if i ever need/want to have wind up windows etc.
Edit:
I just weighed the pieces that i cut out/removed from one door - 3.5kg - so that will be 7kg over both doors and by the time i cut the holes - Hopefully we get close to 10kg total weight saving over a pair of already bare stripped doors. - Doesnt sound like a lot, but all these little bits add up. And being lighter improves all areas of performance, acceleration, braking and turn in and handling.
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Holy sh!t Robbie! She's cranking now, nice work!
I gotta see this thing run in the flesh before you sell it offshore
Nice and light.
i need Speed shop thagard contact info please
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Does anyone know if James is still doing Garrett turbo parts ?