takeuchi
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Posts posted by takeuchi
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On 5/11/2020 at 10:08 AM, LLave said:
Any tricks to not messing up and having to redo like you said?
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On 8/23/2019 at 11:16 AM, LLave said:
Do you plan on sealing the inside? I would be happy to share notes on that. I got good at it after I had to completely strip and re-do it a second time. Don't be like me, do it once.
How did you seal it?
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On 12/3/2019 at 3:39 PM, HuD 91gt said:
Just for reference for future interested parties.
I ordered these parts for my 08/71 240z. They do not fit. First off which is well
known, the 08/71 booster bolt
pattern is different (anything <08/71 I believe).
But more important, this 8.75” booster won’t fit with the clutch master, and also hits the throttle cable linkage bracket. Rough measurements show an 8” master “might” fit, but I’d expect a little clearancing required.
Edit: after seeing the above post and the 8.5” booster in the photo. I decided to drill the holes and make sure. Not going to happen. I’m in the midst of cutting off the throttle linkage bracket, and will offset the booster as much as I can to avoid the clutch master. If you look in the above photo. There is no way they can remove their clutch master without removing the brake booster. I will most likely make some
sort of offset on the brake pedal itself as well.
Do you have any updates or photos on this? Need a new booster and wanting to upgrade to a bigger unit.
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Is this still available?
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12 hours ago, Invincibleextremes said:
I can do 650. That way you don't have to trust my hack welding. Can't do any lower unless a handful of people want some and have money ready... then I'll be happy to get them laser cut in batches and obviously the price will be even better.
Cutting them by hand takes forever and theres no way i'm working for free.
Fair enough!
I can wait if others want a better price as well since I don't have my vehicle back yet. Otherwise I'd do a set of tacked for that price!
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On 5/31/2019 at 11:41 PM, Invincibleextremes said:
900 for the kit if anybody wants one. Less if you just want it tacked together.
How much for the tacked up version?
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What year are the volvo S80 inners? I'm guessing 04-06?
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What specific parts are the inner tie rods and the steering rack?
Will the same one work for left hand drive?
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20 hours ago, Suchfun240z said:
Sweet!! I think I’d be interested in a tacked up kit.
me too
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3 hours ago, Richard Oben said:
I bought 930 CV to Z flanges and then had custom axles made.
Who made the axles, how long are they and how much were they? I would like to do this swap when the mounts get made!
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On 16/05/2016 at 3:35 PM, rturbo 930 said:
I think you mean Ford 8.8 Diff swap. Anyway, I'll be following this one. I didn't care for the amount of things you have to change out to use Fritt's conversion. My plan was the following:
8.8 Diff, mounts, etc.
DSS stub axles
930 CVs
Custom length axle shaft
And an adapter to go between the 930 CV and the factory stub axle, like you'd use to convert to Z31 CVs.
Chequered Flag Joe actually makes that adapter, but only in 39 spline, I believe, and he sells it as part of a kit. I'm interested to see what you come up with. Something a little less spendy would be nice.
What is the process for determining the length of a custom length axle shaft? Bolt everything up and take a tape measure to it (similar to measuring a driveshaft)?
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For a street driven S30, here's about as much as you can do to stiffen the chassis:
1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.)
2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors
3. Weld-In Roll Bar.
4. Welded In Rear STB.
5. Triangulated Front STB.
6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement.
7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement.
8. RT Diff Mount.
9. Tubular Seat Mounts.
10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl.
11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount.
12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount.
13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction.
I have not been able to find any pics of the following so I have a few questions and please excuse my ignorance:
6. Would this run along the outside of the upper radiator bracket? or just on top of the lower one?
11. Is this just a matter of welding some sort of bracket like so?
http://www.racingonthecheap.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/2009-10-02-037-Small.jpg
13. Would you weld an "L" bracket from the engine frame rail to the fender wall (inside of engine bay) all the way up to the top of the strut tower? or something similar on the inside of wheel well/strut tower.
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looks like i'm not the only one who had some difficulties. I tried putting like 6 screwdrivers near the top to pry back the edging of the rubber. Looks like i'm gonna have to go crazy on the top part to push it through. thanks for your responses.
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Quick question, on my '70 i'm having troubles getting the stubborn thing out. I removed the screws at both ends. Is it supposed to be pulled up or down. From the bottom i saw thick bendy rings in the tube that made me think it won't be able to be pulled up, and the top edge is hard plastic that is impossible to pull through the hole. Help is appreciated.
5 lug, 4 wheel big disc brake, and coilovers for pennies using 2014 mustang spindle and brakes
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
FYI, you can email them and ask them to include the straight pins rather than the tapered ones.