HarrisonTX
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Posts posted by HarrisonTX
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I've been considering an ebay radiator. Hard to beat $140 for a bolt in aluminum rad.
I run an ebay Chinese radiator in my malibu with a 406 chevy and have never had issues, and that's here in Texas
Any one try one yet?
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An 8 second street car is pretty damned impressive. You sure put a whoopin on that GTR as well. Good Job.
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I know this is a rather tall order, but I'd like a second set of eyes covering this please
TILTON 7/8 master has a 3AN out
361-63011732 (jegs) 32' -3AN Straight to 90° (line)
Roll pin adapter "640281 Russell late model gm hydraulic clutch fitting" -3AN
Duralast 10380 clutch slave. Should be metal (camaro slave)
Member "Miles" used these part numbers, and is running a few more AN fittings than me.Tilton 7/8" MC TIL-74-875U $80.00 Summit
Napa Camaro slave UP37821 $43.98
McLeod roll pin adaptor MCL 139026 $46.39 Summit
Earls 32" -3 ST/90 Clutch Hose EAR6301172 $27.00
Earls -4 FEM swivel EAR 915104 $7.99
Earls -3 to -4 union EAR991902 $4.99
His roll pin adapter is -4AN and $40, mine is -3AN and $20, and avoiding the use of the -3 to -4 union as well as the -4 swivel.
I've read some guys on here running a -4AN line, but the JTR manual calls for a -3AN. I hope that is sufficient line size.
What do yall think about my parts list?
The camaro slave bolts to the camaro bellhousing. I'm running a standard lakewood. I plan to just fab up a bracket, and weld it to the bellhousing. Should I run the Camaro clutch fork? If so, for what years? I'm concerned the clutch fork wont reach out far enough.
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Is this the metal body one? Link shows metal, but says plastic. Centerforce just told me that I need a metal slave to run the PP I want.
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Im in waco, about 90 miles north
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also, i still havent found out if the t56 will bolt to my 400 block or not.... Ive been searching and searching and still havent found that one out yet
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm
That will bolt to a 400. I just ordered one, it actually arived today for my ls1 t56
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What slave is that? I assume a stock chevy salve that bolts to the bellhousing? I'm running a lake wood, It wouldnt be difficult to weld on a bracket and run that same slave that you have.
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What slave is that? I assume a stock chevy salve that bolts to the bellhousing? I'm running a lake wood, It would be difficult to weld on a bracket and run that same slave that you have.
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A larger Pan won't interfere with the crossmember, or the block hugger headers, the pan widens out towards the back of the block.
Is your engine a 1piece rear seal by chance? I have an extra 7qt moroso pan. 1 rod hit it, but did not go through it, some aluminum was brazed into the dent's to give it some strength back. I cannot use it because the old block was destroyed, i have a 2pc rear seal now.
It was 240$ or so new, 50$ shipped if you want it.
Hell, I'll take it...
It is in fact a one piece rear main, with a passenger side dipstick. With one piece's I believe there were both passenger, and driver side dip sticks. If it's passenger side, and useable like you say, I'll take it. I'm going to PM you now.
'
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I'm running an M55HV oil pump.
I'm worried about sucking the pan dry, and I'm considering a 7 quart pan. The JTR book doesnt mention anything about oil pans. I doubt some kickouts would interfere with the crossmember. What about the block hugger headers? Would those prevent me from running a larger capacity oil pan?
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Check for allignment. Also, belts with the cogs on top (rather than the bottom) are harder to throw. Also, once a belt is thrown, it's done (according to Carcraft). Are you continually throwing the same exact belt?
Try a fresh belt, with the cogs on top.
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http://www.kinneysmufflershop.com/
Hands down. The guy is a total dork, but the work is great.
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I have never driven a car with a welded diff, and I have never even had a ride in a car with one. Even though this is true, I feel that is because anybody who has performance in mind avoids a welded diff. Welding your differential is done for drifting, that is all. It is one of the cheapest ways to drift.
Incorrect.
It's not a Z, but in warm weather I daily drive my '79 malibu with a spool (which is the same as a welded diff [locked axles]). "Timestamp" is just incorrect. It's not only done to drift. Like you say, its a cheap alternative to an LSD. I avoid driving in the rain, and SHARP corners like in a fuel station are annoying, and squeaky, but it's not the end of the world. I cannot speak from experience on the strength issue, but I can tell that on the street its FAR less dangerous than people make it out to be. Many many people speak from absolutely zero first hand expirence, like "timestamp", but rather word of mouth, and 'stories' they heard.
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Not smacking your gum a foot away from the camera would be nice.
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Ha! This was just a solid brag post, but I'm glad we could get it ramped back up for some new guys.
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I just dug out these patches from 5 years worth of storage. I'm excited to get 'em on a jacket for the winter
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I really could use a hand guys
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Of course I have the JTR book.
I believe the "electrical" section to be wrote for 240's, so it might differ a little from my 260z?
I have a 260z, with a production date of 3/74. Right now I'm tackling the wiring, and could use a little help.
I only need to find the wiring for my HEI, starter, starter solenoid, alternator, and the A/C compressor.
The book says a "White" wire goes for the starter. I believe this is true for my 260Z. I have located a heavy gauge WHITE wire. For the solenoid, I have a black-yellow wire that goes to a 4 connection plug. Is this the correct black-yellow wire?
I have located a WHITE-RED wire. It goes to a 2 wire plug. The other wire, is the heavy gauge WHITE wire that I mentioned above. Correct wire for a one-wire alternator?
I need to find the wire for my BAT terminal on an HEI. The book says it's a BLACK-WHITE wire with a protective sleeve. I do not have a BLACK-WHITE wire with a protective sleeve. I have 3 BLACK-WHITE wires that all go to a 5 connection plug, and 1 other BLACK-WHITE wire that goes to nothing. There is just a crimp on terminal on that single wire.
I'm using all aftermarket gauges, so I'm not worried about the gauge wires. I just need the wires mentioned above. I will also wire in a fuel pump on my own.
The motor is out of the car, the harness is unwrapped completely. I'm using a first generation small block with HEI.
I know this is a tall order, but all the wiring diagrams I've found online contradict each other, and I'm at a stopping point.
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Have seen you "around" Fort Worth, and it runs just as good in person
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Before you remove any wires go through the engine bay and tag each wire with a number on an address lable and document the number, function and color code on a wire list. If you are not sure about the function of the wire, test it with a volt meter etc. Take lots of close up pictures of the wires. When you do start disassembly of the wiring, unwrap the wiing harness keeping the numbered tags on the wires. Separate the wires you need from the harness, but do not cut any wires until you are ready to route and re-attach them.
I need a wire going to the Alternator, starter, and tach, I believe that is it. I will run all new wires for my gauges. Other than those three wires, It seems like everything can come out, right?
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I'm finally getting to start on my 260. The pictures in the JTR book vary slightly from my engine bay.
I'm a little afraid of just ripping all this. Most of the connections are just plugs, but when it comes to pulling wires permanently, I dont want to remove anything just to put it back. I'm attempting to keep the A/C, and I'm running an HEI. I should only need about 3-4 wires in the engine bay, right?
There's several things on the fenders wells, and firewall, and I just dont know what they are.
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Are z seen in a negative light often? Serious question
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I've been running a tko since about 2004, putting about 400 whp thru it in road race app. No issues, shifts smoothly, GM synchromesh fluid. In the jtr position with a Pro 5.0 shifter, I had to trim about a half inch from the front of the shifter opening.
jt
No clearence issues in the tunnel?
A half inch off the plastic console, or the metal? Either is no sweat.
I will be running a Steeda shifter. Same exact spot as a PRO 5.0 though, I imagine.
Lets see your V8 in your Z.
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Took me about 8 years, but it's in there.