Zed@National Speed

We appreciate the kinds words, thank you. And when you want to bounce some ideas off us, please let us know! A few more updates on my end: Jared, these past few days have been taxing for all of those involved, but at the end of the day; the product is worth it. Driving around with you tonight in this beast, I couldn't help but reflect about how far this car really has done. Once again, I'm thrilled to have been a part of it. A few shots of the car parked at Mayfaire Town Center when Jared and I ran out for a quick beer... Jared and his 240Z... While we were standing there for a few minutes discussing random topics of conversation, at least three people walked/drove by and said "Nice Z!" This car gets the attention, that's for sure. And what quite a few have been waiting for, a quick in-car video during a low-boost first through second into third gear run... I wish the video did it justice, but I cannot describe how stunned I was at how hard this car pulls on such low power (around 325whp+/-). It's going to be an absolute beast on high-boost pressure (around 425whp+/-).

310Z, thank you, I just now saw your PM. Well, I've got some digging to do.

Ok guys, as a shop I'm used to the mentality of "I should always have answer for the customer." In this case; I do not. What are you guys doing for tachometers on these swapped S30 chassis vehicles? We MUST maintain the factory tachometer, or at least a Z-variant unit. I've done research, and I cannot dig up anything definitive for a fix. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Full boost comes online at 3,500rpm on low boost (10psi), and 3,800rpm on high boost (18psi). It's got a LOT of usable power, and this thing just keeps pulling. It's a very well-breathing setup.

It just did 431.44whp and 319.72ftlbs!

The car just did 421.90whp and 306.28ftlbs on 18psi!

You've got to love it, 300whp+/- on 93octane, and at the flick of a switch, 380-400whp on 93octane. I love AEM EMS. We're tuning on high-boost level right now, and I'll leave it at this; it's looking promising.

Jared, I believe Kyle McManus is coming by on Saturday to work some of his magic. I'll accommodate him however he needs (i.e. "move the car here... Turn those lights on... No, turn them off... etc."), I want to see some good shots of this setup so bad.

The long-awaited first-start up video...

Track rats FTW.

It's fun to catch the bug. I still find myself staring at my car in the garage, and I have to remind myself; "Ok, Jordan. You've been standing here staring for five minutes, nothing's going to change, go to bed." I'll never be satisfied until I can stare at my dream cars for five minutes every night before bed. I've got some work to do.

I cannot wait until the point in my life where I can have an absolutely mint car, that I'm scared to drive. As of right now, every car I own, I have no guilt or fear taking on the road course, and letting the front end get some rock chips and tire material marks laid on it.

Concerning slip-joint sections on a turbocharged application; it's 100% logical, and functional. Not to mention, it looks pretty awesome too. Quite a few vehicles I know of, belonging to friends and coworkers have slip-joint sections on their turbocharged systems, with no issues. A friend of mine named Ben (of Momentum Performance) has an S2000 that he's done a custom hand-built turbocharger system on, with four double-walled slip-joint sections on the Burn's Stainless twin-scroll T4 collector. The car sees 26psi exhaust-manifold absolute pressure levels (it's almost a perfect 1:1 IMAP:EMAP level at 600whp, a very well designed system, the IMAP is still a percentage higher than the EMAP, which is ideal). No leaking. The car makes 600whp, on a 100% stock F20C from oil pan to valve cover, by the way. Slip-joints are the way to go, in my opinion. They remain rigid while allow for flex, that's a nice combination for a tubular manifold. The lines in these pictures are not finalized (as Jared stated that I stated). These AN lines are like saws when they contact other metal (or any other material in the engine bay, for that matter), we've taken extreme care to ensure no defacing will occur anywhere an AN line is present. Correct. It will be fine. The breather canister itself weighs almost nothing, and the bracket is supporting the weight on a vertical axis, not horizontal (i.e. there is much more resistance in the design this way). If the bracket were larger, I'd say gussetting would be a fair idea, but honestly, it'd be overkill. You've got to remember how light that breather canister is. Another factor; it will have a hard line supporting the upper portion of the canister. Cracking will not be an issue, at any point in time. Video is coming. The shop camera has failed, I have no idea why. However, thankfully my girlfriend was at the shop with us last night during first start up, so I was able to capture the moment on her camera. I'll upload it today when I get home from work this evening. I greatly appreciate the kind words, Jared. I love this obsession almost more than life itself. There is no greater high than seeing a car like this come to fruition, and work as planned. (yes, I stated "obsession," not job, not career, not hobby. It's an obsession) Quote of the year, hahaha.

Thanks Jared, we do greatly appreciate the kind words. I'm glad you made it back safe, by the way! Agreed. Unfortunately, the only 36" throttle cable I can find with a 90degree provision in the base, is for a Harley Davidson, and we're not 100% that it will work. There have to be other options out there, it's a matter of calling each company to see what's available. The company we normally use for throttle cables and accessories is Lokar, but unfortunately they are closed for the Holidays until Monday, 01.04.10. My searchs on automotive aftermarket search engines hasn't been fruitful thus far. The fire sleeve is good for a continuous exposure of 1,200degree F conditions. See the product information here, it's designed for spark plug wires, such as an LSX in which the spark plug wires are awfully close to the header primary, even stock. It will work until a 90degree throttle cable can be procured. Good input though, I agree 110% with you! The oil feed is from the factory location (the oil-feed 12mm x 1.25TP location) that we have adapted for -AN accommodations. The only place this oil is filtered, is at the main engine-oil filter. We do not completely trust that, and would rather protect the non-rebuildable dual-ball bearing CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly, i.e. industry standard for "center section") from any debris. If you've ever seen the opening for a Garrett dual-ball bearing restrictor fitting, you'll know how insanely small the opening is. It wouldn't take much to clog it, then... Well... Jared's got a $500 CHRA exchange to deal with. So to avoid that, the inline oil filter is a nice safe guard against contamination of the CHRA.

The oiling axis of the turbocharger (i.e. oil-feed and oil-return axis) is perfectly vertical. If you look at the pictures again, the gold fitting is the restrictor fitting for the oil-feed inlet of the turbocharger. The line you're thinking of is the water-return line (I assume). Here are two clear pictures of the oil-return hard line... Here you can see the oil-restrictor fitting for the oil-feed inlet... All water and oil lines assembled... (the inline-oil filter did not stay blue) This is how the inline-oil filter looks now, polished, with a custom polished aluminum filter stay bracket...