RB-Z
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Posts posted by RB-Z
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Just about any shop out there will do that type of work... It just depends on how deep your pockets are.
Akuma-Z, great pic.. that compound/sequential setup is an amazing work of engineering!
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Boost Logic in Austin comes to mind. And Marc is fairly knowledgeable around Z cars as he has a 2JZ swapped Z31.
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Yeah, using the FSM and a real and reputable wiring diagram, this will only take time and patience. Everything else is just connecting the dots... well... the wires. If I've learned one thing about swapping engines, they're all practically the same, you just need the right diagram to work off of. IMHO 85% of the swap is wiring everything together to make it work like OEM.
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I made my first oil pan flange last night so I don't need the old oil pan. I'm going to start building a oil pan for a rear wheel drive block so if anybody needs one just let me know.
Those pans will also work on a RB30 block yes? If so... I may be inetersted.
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We hope to have final CAD work to start building production pans in about a month, suppose to have CAD to have aluminum water jet cut next week and start welding up first test one and after that the build the pick-ups....
This has taken muck longer than planned, but it is what it is to get quality parts...
Mack
Can't wait to see that! Would you guys offer a special full package swap kit for a discount for maybe the first 10 members that would want to buy the kit with the pan?
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A dry sump setup? Of course it is better but it is also 3-4 times more expensive than a nice aftermarket pump. Its also over kill for 95% of the cars on here.
I heard external oil pump much better than internal one. -
$1100 shipped for a JUN...good deal? As for returning it to the pan, I'm running a Tomei restrictor and an 8AN rear head drain
Done and done! Great setup... I would go with the JUN at that price. Sounds like you've got the setup figured out!
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I would love to do this swap! Great build... very inspirational!
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nice i wish it could get one for that price but shipping it back to the states is another thing... looks great! gl
If you're interested I have 2 RB30 short blocks for sale. Both in great condition. Not to far from you either. PM me if you're interested.
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I know what you mean about the "while I'm at it" state of mind, that's where I'm at...plus, I just sold the N1, so I might as well "go big or go home" I found a good deal on the JUN, might just go that route.
Thanks for the input!
Yeah, if you found a a good deal on the JUN, jump on it. It is the most important piece.. IMO.. of the RB26 puzzle. Other than getting the oil back to the pan... but that's a whole different problem in itself.
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out of curiosity, I know you said "normal street driving"...but do you know exactly what they were doing when the pumps gave out? Were they launching, high RPM's etc?
No, we were driving to the gas station and it dropped oil pressure completely. We though maybe something blocked the pickup, or something was in the filter. Nope.. pulled the pump apart and it went into self destruct mode. It basically just grenaded itself. Looked like it just fell apart.
If you do end up using the N1 pump, get the JUN crank collar. Rev limiters are what kill the stock/N1 pumps. With the smaller stock crank collar it basically rattles and beats the pump out of the housing. I would think with the billet crank collar the N1 pump would last a bit longer.. but I still wouldn't trust it.
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From what I've read, and experienced.. for anything more than a stock application... I would never use the N1 oil pump. I've heard of WAY to many failures to justify the cheap price for an "upgraded" oil pump. I've seen first hand 2 N1 oil pumps drop oil pressure and destroy a motor under 5000 miles of normal street driving. Under no circumstance would I ever trust an N1 oil pump for anything over 300whp.
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Any thoughts on the JUN pump?
It's a toss up between the Tomei and Jun... even the Greddy and HKS.
However, I've never heard of a Tomei breaking.. ever... even at 9650rpm wich is what my old roommate spins his built 26 to. He's had that motor for 2 years now and is running 26psi on a 35R. Makes crazy power and runs like it is new.
RB rear sump oil pan from scratch
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Any pictures of the inside of the pan? Also, is the front part of the pan level or is a sloped to let the oil drain back into the sump?