thehelix112 Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Forcer, I didn't know about Chris Forsberg actually, thanks for that. I think the Drift Emporium guys used a different transmission, but I will definitely go email Chris Forsberg, thanks for the tip. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driven5 Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Haha, cool. I'm fine with you telling me I'm crazy, just makes me more determined to do it. But it's best if I can pick you knowledge _while_ you're supposing I'm silly. Yeah I think 5.5" will be good. I think I'm going to try and get a triple-plate, assuming there is enough room in there. The metallic material will have to do I guess. I am planning on a ~1/2" adaptor plate, then milling the same amount (or however much works I guess) off the bell housing to get the input spline in the right place. Re starting it, I have a couple of ideas, none of which are very good, but we'll see I guess. Thanks! Dave If I tell you that you're crazy, it would just be the pot calling the kettle black...Mainly my opinion is just in regards to your component selection vs your stated goal of a car that will be driven in any real capacity on the street and thus inevitably in some amount of traffic. It seems to me that you're building a car that really only belongs being loaded onto a trailer with a winch for transport to/from the track. But then again, I'm also sure that you know what opinions are like... How thick is the flange on the transmission to be able to mill from? I would be very cautious to not do anything to potentially reduce the strength of the bellhousing. Part of why doing this can be deceptively tricky ,is that there are a surprising number of variables that will need to be taken into account and if you overlook even one it can certainly cause problems. But the advantage you have is in the custom pieces that can be used to get everything exactly where it needs to be. Regarding offsets and fittment, in my opinion the chosen adapter plate thickness, in addition to ensuring it's also thick enough to safely mate the bellhousing to the engine and account for bolt head clearance and everything, should primarily be used to locate the input shaft into the desired position relative to the pilot bearing. Then the position of the clutch disks on the input shaft spline is built into the button flywheel design. Finally the release bearing is setup/adjusted to ensure a proper position relative to the clutch spring fingers. Of course there are potential pitfalls that would still also prevent this methodology from working in that order depending on how all of the measurements involved work out, but it would definitely be my first choice if possible. Not to step on your (or Quarter Masters) toes, or tell you anything you might already know, but I figured I might as well throw it out there while I'm thinking about it. I don't know what you have for measurement tools, or what Quarter Master has said thus far, but I would think you'll at least want to have on hand a level of known width long enough to span the bellhousing a caliper long enough to reach the bottom of the bellhousing from the far side of the level. These two tools should allow you to gather all fo the data you'll need. For the transmission side, potential critical measurements/calculations wil include bellhousing face to end of input shaft, bellhousing face to end of pilot bearing face, bellhousing face to both ends of full-depth input shaft spline, and bellhousing face to release bearing mounting surface (for hydraulic release bearing). On the engine side they include crank face to pilot bearing face and crank face to bellhousing face (make sure to not if recessed or sticking out). You'll also want to verify how far in from the bellhousing face you can fit a minimum of 6.625" diameter surface, as the clutch cover diameter is just over 6.5". I might be missing a few other dimensions, and definitely am if you end up using a starter/flex plate, but this should be enough to get you started if you haven't already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 Justin, I'm going to stop saying thanks for the input as hopefully it's implied by now, and I'm getting sick of repeating myself. Consider it standing appreciation. I guess I should I restate my goals in more concrete terms. The uses for the car will be: * driving it to the track (early morning, limited traffic and start/stops) * driving it at the track (yay) * driving it back from the track (dusk, traffic might be more of an issue on a weekend here) * driving it to a car show or two I basically would rather have something that I don't have to redo the clutch/transmission if I ever end up having money to buy a trailer. Re bell housing, absolutely. Re the huge verniers required, that makes sense, will have a dig around and see if I can buy one of them. Re the way to get measurements, makes a lot of sense to me. Re the procedure for lining things up/designing the solution, completely agree. It's awesome to have it spelt out like that though as now I have a rough recipe to follow, thanks! Here is a pic of the front of the bellhousing Looks like there is some meat on it to play with. The other option is after the adaptor is made and bolted together I weld it to the transmission for good measure. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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