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New S30, thoughts on idle?


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Hey guys, I recently got a 1977 280z, crank no start, replaced cap and rotor, spark wires, troubleshot injectors, all 6 are firing, and it does idle now, kind of.

 

This is going to be a direct copy paste from my post on www.zdriver.com (Thread)

 

Just going over routine check, found that all 7 (coil too) spark plug contacts on the rotor cap are rusted, enough that I busted one of the wired trying to get it out even after letting it sit for a while in PB blaster, also the TPS connections are corroded, same with the AFM, let them sit in PB/Toolboxbuddy for a while.

 

Also found out, didn't notice this until today (after hounding this car for about two months) that four of the injectors are black, and two are green. All six of my turbo injectors on the rail, are black. I also remember reading somewhere that N/A = Green, T = Black, correct?

 

I need to take the screws out (as they are stripped, hex screws incoming), to get everything cleaned.

 

All plugs are good, dirty, but they have no concerning flags (Like... coolant..)

 

No other real updates now. Will probably drop the gas tank to fabricate an almost replica from sheet metal/what I find to be safe, as that tank is toast...

 

Sending unit, rest of the tank is identical

 

0904111229.jpg

 

/break/

 

Whelp, I went through, checking everything, the plugs were rusted at the dizzy cap (and at the coil too D= ), so I replaced the Cap, wires, and brought over my MSD coil from my S130, cleaned everything, got the broken injector bolt fixed, found out which injectors worked, which didn't (All were firing before I bolted them in, now #1 and #2 are not firing )

 

But it idles, kinda rough, but its an idle without dieing

 

Also found out that the alternator is shot. So I'll be replacing that with my old one that I have, should still be good.

 

/break/

 

I think this is my first video proof of one of my Zs running

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZgWGQwgdXM

 

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Found kind of an issue today, the Z will start, idle regularly, but then the RPM will drop and eventually it will die, no matter how much I mess with the idle screw or the TPS

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MCR-CkOzs8

 

 

/break/

 

 

 

Now, I haven't been able to test the different AFMs I have, I know that the one that was on the car had more pin connections than I actually had on the AFM plug, the AFM I picked up at the salvage yard has the same amount of pins as the plug does, it is from a 79 S130 tho, which... should be okay?

Edited by WanganDevilZ
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  • 1 month later...

Attach a Fuel Pressure Gauge ($30) to the fuel line on top of the fuel filter and see if the the pressure is holding. Sounds like the injectors are not getting gas and it cuts off.

 

If the gas tank does not appear to leak, take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. I paid $45 here. It completely cleans and strips all the paint and gunk out of the tank.

 

If the tank is good, you can then use a gas tank sealer on the inside and repaint the outside. Many people attach a Fram G3 fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump.

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