matt_w Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) T56/JTR kit. Has anyone tried pulling the transmission out without pulling the entire engine/trans combo? it looks like if you pull the shifter baseplate out of the top of the trans it may slide back far enough to get the input shaft out of the bellhousing. Just making sure there isn't a quicker way of doing what I'm about to do Edited March 2, 2012 by matt_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have the same installation of a T56 transmission. Both it and the SBC V8 are installed for fitting purposes. I plan to put STUDS in the rear of the engine block for easier removal of the Transmission. The LT-1/4 cast aluminum bell-housing is bolted to the transmission from both the inside of the bell-housing and outside the bell-housing. Thus with the mounting STUDS on the rear of the engine, loosening the bolts in the engine mounts, taking out the drive-shaft, and taking the rear transmission mount down and lowering the rear of the transmission, supporting the rear of the engine, should allow access to the nuts on the STUDS at the rear of the engine. This is the way that I envision removing the transmission without removing the engine. In your case the whole engine/trans combination needs to come out for access to the trans. Then the bell-housing can be removed from the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 In your case the whole engine/trans combination needs to come out for access to the trans. Then the bell-housing can be removed from the transmission. I don't need to remove the bellhousing, just the transmission. The transmission is bolted to the bellhousing, so assuming I can reach all the bolts I should be ok right? Or are you saying no go. here is my setup: http://matt.loadedregister.com/240z/engine2.jpg http://matt.loadedregister.com/240z/engine4.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Yes you can, I've done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Great to hear! Any tips/tricks that you found? Looks like the distributor cap obviously has to come off to tilt the engine back. Did you remove the entire shift lever (including the stub that the main lever bolts to)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I stand corrected. Apparently from your photo of the pull type LT-1/4 clutch and bell-housing, the transmission can be removed from the bell-housing. This is good to know as I can separate the two and install the clutch and bell-housing first with the alignment tool, then insert the transmission to the bell-housing. Would like to know if anybody has used the Quicktime scatter-proof LT-1/4 bell-housing and is it dimensionally larger than the stock cast aluminum one. Look like just removing the shift level and leaving the base plate of the shifter mechanism is the way to remove the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Great to hear! Any tips/tricks that you found? Looks like the distributor cap obviously has to come off to tilt the engine back. Did you remove the entire shift lever (including the stub that the main lever bolts to)? It's been a long time since I've done it, but yes you need to tilt the engine back (remove dist. cap). I think all you have to do is remove the shifter, everything else should clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_w Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Just finished, ended up being fairly simple. Didn't even really have to lower the transmission much at all to slide it out. For anyone else that finds this thread: -remove distributor cap, left about 1/4" between cap plate and firewall with transmission lowered. -remember to remove clutch master cylidner and disengage clutch fork BEFORE unbolting transmission -loosen engine mounts (so you have more wiggle room) -remove shifter baseplate, this will make your life a lot easier There was one difficult transmission to bellhousing bolt to reach: the passenger side upper corner. To reach it, I used about 2 feet of socket extensions from inside the Z through the shifter hole, using a mirror and flashlight to guide it into place. With the transmission removed, it would be very easy to remove the bellhousing and replace the clutch. Yay! Now to find out why my T56 is stuck in gear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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