Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Have any of you guys checked out this set-up? web page It's a push type slave cylinder with bracket and master cylinder from CJ Pony parts (http://www.emustang.com). Basically, it comes with a braket and all the hydraulics to mount a hydraulic clutch to an early mustang for a T-5 upgrade. Uses a remote reservoir. Looks complete. I couldn't get to the info on their site, so don't know cost or if it will bolt-up to a tremic 3550. Anyone know of this? It was in the October issue of Mustangs and Fords. Thanks for any input. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 they want like $300 for it!!!!!! i saw this magazine and called calif mustang a few months ago. they come ONLY as a package with the master and lines, i considered buying one to copy the slave mount but the price was alot IMO.. i bought the mustang magazine just for this ad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 $300! Dang. Mike, can you tell what brand of slave cylinder that is, or are they all pretty much the same? Anyway, when the tranny gets here I'll see if it can be duplicated easily. I'll let you know how it goes. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 I've got a new pull type (they have the push type as well) that I didn't use because I changed plans when I put my motor in. I figured I'd keep it for future use in another project. But anyway, its a Chuck Neal Corp one. Nice unit all blue anodized billet. I think it was like only 50 - $60.00 or there abouts as I remember it. It looks just like the one that wilwood sells, so either they copied each other, or one or the other manufactures it and sells it to the other company. The rod on one end is rather long with a heim joint. No bracketry comes with it, but it doesn't take much imagination to figure that out. Unless its to long (which is about 12"'s but thats including a rod that can be cut down) it might save you quite a bit of coin. I got if from Racesearch.com if memory serves. Just a thought. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Lone, is the shaft on the right for mounting purposes? Thanks for the info. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 the idea is good mounting the slave behind. then it is clear of the headers and exhaust more.. all push type slaves are similar. the problem i encountered is they wouldnt sell the slave and mount separately but wanted to sell me the pedal bracketry and master and i had no use for that on the Z. i have a 66 stang that i will put a 5L into as well but thats a long time away. even the datsun slave might work if mounted this way.. could shorten the arm to clear the tunnel and use a 7/8" master for travel - might be able to go for a smaller master to make the pedal softer???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Well, since I have the time, and the datsun parts, I'll give that a try first. If it doesn't work it'll be a good exercise to run through anyway. Thanks guys. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 Jon, yeah the right side is stationary and is the mount side. I'm thinking if a person were to cut off the long mounting rod, and make a gusseted L bracket that would bolt onto the cut off rod and the bellhousing on the other end, you'd have pretty much the same thing as that expensive unit only mounted slightly different. Just an idea if the other stuff doesn't pan out for you. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 9, 2001 Share Posted November 9, 2001 I have the Neal pulling cylinder on my 347 V8Z. It's relatively easy to do and works great. Here is the link to my sketch of how to do it: http://www.geocities.com/bern_on_yahoo/ClutchLinkageByDon.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 17, 2001 Share Posted November 17, 2001 I used the same Camaro slave cylinder as specified in the JTR book and built a bracket to mount it to the bell housing (actually, a scattershield, in my case). I made a push rod with ball bearings welded on each end and used a stock '65 Ford clutch lever setup. Tilton master cylinder. Works great. And nowhere near $300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted November 18, 2001 Share Posted November 18, 2001 if you have a picture of what you did i'd like to see one....... why use the camaro slave instead on the nissan one?? isnt the camaro one made from plastic and have a plastic supply tube? doesnt sound like the best choice (or is there nothing better?) and thats just cause i think this icon is hilarious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 Just getting up to speed on this digital photography thing. Will try to get a picture up after the Holiday. Used the Camaro piece because of fear that Nissan unit wouldn't provide enough stroke length. Other than that, there's no particular reason. I did modify the plastic cylinder a bit differant than is shown in JTR, if memory serves. Just the way that I tapped the housing for the NPT adapter fitting. More soon. GrinZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 I got a push slave used off a 1982 Toyota Celica which is 15/16' and has about 1 1/4 inches travel. We cut off the shift fork completely where it sticks out of the bellhousing and made a plate to cover the hole in the bellhousing. We then used a hole cutter to cut a hole in the BACK of the bellhousing (next to where the tranny mounts), cut one of the two mounting flanges off the slave, stuck it in the hole and bolted it to an existing mount hole in the transmission. We also used a Dremel with a grinding tool to grind a round concave surface in the shift fork for the slave pushrod to fit into. It came together very well and is extremely compact. Once I get my scanner working and pictures developed I will post pics. worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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