Neat brake line shielding option

[Guest Anonymous]

I recently developed a simple rerouting of the driver side LF brake line. This line is subject to quite a bit of heat from the headers on that side. A sometimes pronounced pull to one side after stabbing the brakes after any particularly hard run down the freeway, was cured by the rerouting of this line. (The passenger side had already been rerouted during the conversion.)

The original LF line is too long to use in this reroute, but I discovered that the one of the short lines from the master cylinder to the "Brake line pressure differential warning light switch" was just perfect in length.

Part #: 46241-E4601 List: $4.64

As of this morning Nissan listed it as available.

I removed the original line and simply drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the inner fender approx. 1.25 inches ahead of and level with the "BLPDWLS" outlet for the LF brake line.

I simply carefully reshaped the new line by hand to make a 90 degree bend right at the "BLPDWLS" and exit immediately through the fender well. Another quick 90 degree horizontal bend towards the front of the car,and some final reshaping of the rest of the line allowed for it to enter the flex line stabilizer bracket as the original line did.

I put a small 1/2 inch rubber grommet around the brake line and inserted it into the whole in the fender well. No leaks, no rub, no drips, no errors.

A quick pressure bleed on the brakes and the job was done.

For those of you with access to a brake line flaring tool, you can save yourself 5 bucks and cut the original line and reflare it if you are feeling lucky. For those of you who don't own such a tool, use of the short OEM line will assure you that you will get as good a reseal on both ends as the factory could offer.

Be sure to replace the small 4 mm bolt which you removed to remove the original line. I find these holes to be one of the sources for water to migrate into the "Frame" horn for which there is no exit. My hope is that sealing this hole will slow down the tendency of our cars to rust from the inside out in the TC rod area. I also drill drain holes down low in the lowest portion of the "frame" horn area below and behind the TC rod connection for drainage.

If my instructions are not up to snuff, let me know and I will take a picture of the new line and post it.