Guest Anonymous Posted January 23, 2001 Share Posted January 23, 2001 1977 datsun 280z manual tran., EFI,L28 6banger w/ a/c -coupe My car sat for a around two years ,recently I am trying to get it running again. When I start the car it turns over strong every time. but takes 2,3,4..etc before any sign of life?once i have gotten it running , sometimes with a little ...skip and sometimes acceptable(1200-1500rpm)--cold outside here.Then it idles for a few minutes..gas, elect, or air something makes it sort of lope or maybe lobe??sort of like rpms up and down but throttle response is good..... wait a little longer then rpm go down lower but not off.. and if you give it gas it will bog or back fire through the intake and afm.Finally after it dies it it hard to start . so i leave it to sit for a few minutes and try again ...back to square one. So I proceeded to shut every thing off and disconnect the battery and open the driver door and remove the ECU connecter the I performed the tests from the manual most passed..some are either questionable, or failed. FAILED: Air temp sensor ---> replaced with motorsport auto AFM 169.95+core. Water temp sensor ---> the smaller on towards the driverside under the thermostat near radiator next to the water temp gauge sender.or to the right of the wtgs..---> anyways replaced from motorsport auto 23.74 Afm to throttle body boot w/spout new. Battery new. plugs and wires and rotor and cap 2 years old. gas tanks rusted--->replaced -used-Pressuretested-sanded/wire brushed--extend-undercoat partially. attempted to start car afterwards some what to run then replaced fuel filter. I have disconnected the fuel line from then top of the fuel filter and it has shot considerably all over. but the psi is Unknown>??? ....also that was the test that was questionable the air reg/fuel pump...when testing from the ecu., with meter set to ohms for resist. everything that was good made the meter full but this test showed only half. while the afm was quarter but in another test was controller by the flap in it and tested up to full. After I tested everything and replaced the afm , and the boot and the watertemp sensor ..the things that failed from the tests. I figured the car would start up great and run great..nope i got it to idle ok and have good response ...I drove it up the road .It had that great rush when you punched it spun tire . but then would lose rpms and run shitty..give it a little gas and it would either sputter or pick back up.. I just dont get it........AAAAAARRRRGGHHHHHH. So back to the garage. After testing some on the charging system the battery is good 12v on the posts..when started 12-12.4 idle..throttle it stays the same.removed the the neg battery term while car running it died.So i took out the alt. and voltage reg and went to the parts store and tested them both failed. tommorrow i will try to replace them.but is this the problem .will i relace them and it will run great? Also I have purchased new fuseable links from motorsport auto and the ones in the car ..front two red seem to be factory or correct ,and the ones in the back seem to be some type of heavy wire but they make the connection.I am afraid to put to new ones in fearing that they might burn up??? also the driver side head light is dim while the other seems to be much brighter than the driverside one.????? AAAGGHHHH.. i am losing my mind. please respond to anythjing that any one may think will help.. thanks, AP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Fast Frog Posted January 25, 2001 Share Posted January 25, 2001 Sounds like you have covered most of the bases. Change fuel filter? Sometimes the elect connectors to your sensors, fuel injection, AFM, TPS, etc need cleaning. Tarnix is a good liquid cleaner. Do you have a vac leak into your intake manifold? any way xtra air gets in can cause a lean condition and cause it to backfire and lose power-even a simple thing like a crack in your oil cap or loose oil cap on your valve cover will screw up your vac. Check your ERG setup on the rear or the intake manifold? Also, if your catalytic converter is plugged or toasted, it can cause a lack of power. Another thing, your idle air controller which sits on top of of the intake plenum behind your cold start valve may be defective. Another good source to call is Sam at MSA, he's helped me out from time to time. Good luck!! Rick [This message has been edited by Fast Frog (edited January 25, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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