KAZU Posted November 26, 2001 Share Posted November 26, 2001 I replaced entire ignition system of L28. Now the car is running with Ford V6 coil pack. So I don't need the distributor. How can I plug the hole the distributor fitted? I think a freeze plug may work. Did anyone do this? Regards, Kazu -- 71z DTA P8Pro but ignition only right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 26, 2001 Share Posted November 26, 2001 i was wondering if you could provide me with some info on the ignition swap u did sounds like something i need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted November 26, 2001 Share Posted November 26, 2001 to plug a hole like this i usually get a gaskit and scribe pattern on to a piece of aluminum plate.kind of a pain but it saves money.how do you like the dtafast unit?i have the sample software on my hard drive and like it.i work at a ford dealer i get free stuff-like the ranger v6 coil pack you have.the distribitor for west coast said he has some older 6 cylinder units in stock-would like to try getting rid of oem nissan injection on my 77/81zxt z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted November 26, 2001 Author Share Posted November 26, 2001 Distributorless system requires the sensor which detects the crank angle. DTA (and most of OEM EFI) use teethed wheel with missing tooth (or teeth) and magnet sensor. I made a sensor bracket which is bolted on the front cover. Then the wheel was placed on the front side of the crank pulley. 240z pulley was better because it is a bit smaller than the wheel (about 130mm O.D. ) and it has two tapped holes which can be used for the wheel mounting. pics of bracket cut by my own CNC machine I am tired programming my CNC machine , so the freeze plug idea came out. The soft is easily understood, better than time confusing EP-ROM programing or SDS, however, I don't have other EFI systems, so I don't know. I have not installed fuel injection system yet, so the complete impression of the soft will be placed later. Regards, Kazu -- 71z DTA P8 Pro, ignition only right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted November 27, 2001 Share Posted November 27, 2001 a challenge-i could try to cut a cover out by hand while you try to program cnc machine-i make my parts the old fashoned way-with a vise and a sawsall.i am sure your parts look better though.good luck with project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted November 27, 2001 Author Share Posted November 27, 2001 To be honest, all I have are drill press with some endmill bits and Dremel. It took almost all day to make these brackets because I cut them out by drilling hundreds of small holes Regards, Kazu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 27, 2001 Share Posted November 27, 2001 Thats no small feat, that aluminum alloy (at least thats what it looks like) isn't very easy to cut, at least the thicker pieces. I've messed with it on my bandsaw and then tryed milling with my drill press and cross slide table and it ain't easy. Good job on it. For those who havn't tried cutting the stuff, lets just say it laughs at your average metal cutting jig saw. (It'll cut it, but you better bring a lunch, cause you'll be there a while... ). Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted November 27, 2001 Share Posted November 27, 2001 Pardon me but I got a question that I haven't seen anyone address yet.. Don't you need something to hold the other end of the oil pump rod? Otherwise it would just bounce around in there, no? I know the chevy 3.1's have a dummy distributor to brace the oil pump shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 27, 2001 Share Posted November 27, 2001 The Datsun timing covers have a support for the dizzy shaft cast into the back of the cover. It supports the shaft just above the crank gear so, if I remember correctly, the shaft won't go anywhere if the distributor is removed. I have begun totally shaving off the distributor mounting point on a spare timing cover and will fill it for a nice smooth look. The plans do call for a crank-fire system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted November 28, 2001 Share Posted November 28, 2001 Yeah I would love a crank fire system one day too. I know about the support inside the timing cover. I just didn't think it would hold up at high rpms. It is still a fairly loose fit if I remember correctly, wouldn't it grind out that aluminum eventually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted November 28, 2001 Author Share Posted November 28, 2001 Good point. The hole near the distributor is loose fit so the spindle shaft may wobble if the distributor removed. The spindle end should be supported by more complicated structure of blanking plug than I thought. If not, the spindle shaft might fail suddenly at high rpm then no oil pressure. Also, cutting the spindle shaft just above the tight hole is good insurance. I will be with distributor just as shaft support for a while and waiting further suggestions Regards, Kazu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 28, 2001 Share Posted November 28, 2001 That was my plan: cut the dizzy shaft just above the "tight" support that resides inside the cover. I would never leave that long extension of "loose" shaft spinning around in there Anyone else got thoughts on this? Perhaps we can come up with a good way to strengthen that lower "tight" support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted November 28, 2001 Share Posted November 28, 2001 all you use for the top of the timing cover is a freeze plug. i cant remember off hand but if its standard or metric but one does fit right in. you are still using the oilpump as a pump so you dont need to do anything else. for the bottom what i do is take a old oil pump and use the input flange that the shaft runs in you will need to make a 3/8" thick plate to cover this to bolt the piece of pump up with (and 2 gaskets) this is how we retain the distributor in a motor where its drysumped. the opposite of your problem. you want the oilpump but not the distributor- i needed the distributor but not the pump itself. look at some of the L series race motors and you will likely see the plug. as far as the looseness up top you will have to determine that yourself. most racecars that have no distirbutor have no oilpump so thats not a issue for them. the top is only holding it close to the gear so it wont have a lot of stress on it will it? the bottom support is more like a bearing surface. i'm sure Ross at SDS will know what to do since theyve done a few nissans. guess you shouldnt call them for "support" as you dont have their system though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raami Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 So have anyone tried to cut that shaft when distributor is no more necessary? Or will there be problems? Old thread so you can't say I didn't use search. The engine is L28. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raami Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 I just find out that LD28 has short version of that shaft because it hasn't distributor. I'm going to cut that so it will be like the one in LD28. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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