Ben's Z Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 I did all the shit. I have no green light and the fuel pump will not prime. Relay is mounted to passenger washer nozzle screw. Relay is grounded to copper AC line bolt below hood latch support on the fire wall. Ran branch wire off of green wire on efi relay to green bullet connector behind passenger seat, I did nothing with the black wire and nothing with the original green wire that was plugged in. Just added bullet to my wire and plugged it in. Black and green wire at 8 pin ZXT harness under drivers dash are grounded to the same hood release cable bracket bolt. One of the yellow and white wires off of 8 pin zxt is spliced and soldered into black and yellow striped ignition wire. Other yellow and white wire on 8 pin zxt under the dash goes out to the ignitor. Blue and red wire are plugged into 6 pin harness from relay. black and white relay wire are connected at + on battery terminal Whoa shit as I write this in my garage I just noticed my coil stunk, and it was hotter than hell. I just had my ignition on to listen to the radio. Think I smoked the coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Okay, obviously there was too much information for everyone to disseminate here. Why would the coil be hotter than hell with the ignition on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Have you replaced the coil ? It's not a good idea to leave key turn to on position without the engine running for too long . I had a Honda came in my shop for a no start . She accidentally left the key on over night , it took out the ECM . Have seen coils go bad or cooked like yours when key left on too long , that energy has to go somewhere ( spark ) . That's why ignition switch has two positions , acc. and on . Edited April 27, 2013 by Domzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Good thought. Can't remember if I had it on acc or on. I will try acc tonight and she what happens. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 I'm going to take another run at this problem this weekend. I'd like a little guidance otherwise it is going to get hauled to a shop on a wrecker. If anyone can get me going down the right path, I'd really appreciate it. If you need more information from me to help you help me, I am all ears and effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Need info on your car . What's missing other no fuel prime ? Getting any spark or injector pulse ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Need info on your car . What's missing other no fuel prime ? Getting any spark or injector pulse ? No spark either. Just pulled plug 6 and held it to the head and cranked it. Nothing. I don't have the fuel rail done yet thus the injectors are just sitting in the intake bosses. What is the MO for testing the coil and or ignitor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 I'm in EL-32 for turbo ignition system in the FSM, but only see around EL-26 for non turbo it goes over coil testing. Does say how to test on turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Had similar problem with my 83 turbo awhile back , way before LS1 conversion . Had no fuel prime and spark . Was an intermitten problem . And it was hard to diag. due to lack of time between no start and start . I replaced the ECM , it was cheap ( free ) . ECM fixed my problem . Check with FSM for testing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 With a new 9v battery and my multi meter set on 200k I have 9 ohms on the secondary circuit. Ignitor is 1.8 and I am having a hell of time getting anything on the primary circuit of the coil, it jumps everywhere and then goes to 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Even cleaning the contacts on the primary circuits I cannot get the ohm meter to hold any number. I tried different settings with the meter with no change. I'd have to believe it would be "0" if it was bad right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 It'd be nice to have auto range meter . Are you sure you're testing it right ? What are you testing , coil or transitor ? You need to be in ECCS section . You haven't mentioned any info on your car , what year are we working on ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 1983 harness and engine 1977 280z. I am just using the testing procedures laid out on EL-26 of the FSM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 I tested the coil on the secondary circuit and got the 9ohms. Not sure what the spec was on the ignitor so while I was there I tested that and got 1.8 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Look at EL-34 for spec. on turbo coil . Sec. should have very high reading ( in Kohm ) . To check primary : put your test leads on + and - posts . Test sec. : one test lead to + and other to coil wire output . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 I did both of those. The section I used has the specs for both NA and turbo ignition systems. As I mentioned when testing on primary. The multi meter was erratic. I was going to test primary on my old NA coil and see if is the meter, because my ignition system was fine on my old engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Do you use the EFI relay on the S30 car on these swaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Where is "280Z female plug" on the colored wiring diagram? Where is the ignition plug on the non colored diagram from cygnusx1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 (edited) I jumped the fuel pump relay earlier and got it to prime. Which colored wire do off of the fuel pump relay needs to make the loop to the 280z female ignition harness plug as seen on CyngnusX1 diagram? On Cygnus diagram he does not have the wire colors listed and his zxt female plug does not correspond with Plug 2 on the colored diagram for wire arrangement. Where he has the wire off of zxt female going to the fuel pump harness then to Pin 16 is listed as neutral safety switch on the colored diagram. The "how to" says to ground this wire, which is it? Edited May 5, 2013 by Ben's Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Did it start after you jumped the fuel pump relay , getting spark or inj. pulse ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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