dreco Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Anyone remove the oil pan yet with this kit? I'm wondering if there is enough clearance to take off past the front cross member without lifting the engine. I purchased a baffle from improved racing. Going to get it installed before my next track outing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Yes. Its easy and quick, I've done it a few times. Only a few of the pan bolts are a pain to get to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I installed the same baffles and their crank scraper a couple weeks ago. If you don't have a ratcheting 10mm wrench, you will want one. Other than that, it's pretty quick and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Savage42, does the scraper have to be measured and trimmed or is it a straight forward leftie-loosy-righty-tighty install? I think several of us want to do it before summer-would you consider a thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks for the input guys!. I do have a ratcheting MM set. I'll take pictures and add them to a thread as I do it. Right now I'm cursing out spindle pins lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) It is a fairly easy install, it's just that the scraper is a close tolerance fit and the holes in the scraper allow for enough movement to center it evenly, but also allows for it to hit if not aligned properly, so not just a bolt on & go deal. After I got my acraper, I told the guys at Improved Racing that the front 2 nuts that are required to fasten the scraper in LS motors running the F-body motor/pan are not in the motor since the windage tray goes from cylindes 3-8 and not the front 2. The cool thing is that the guys at IR are now including the 2 nuts in with the scraper, so you don't have to go out & source them. I got the nuts a few days later (from them) and put it in. The key to install was to just snug down the back, middle and front sets of nuts, rotate the crank and check the gap at each spot where the crank is at the scraper, tap it to make small adjustments (front to back) and once it's clear for each rotation, I cranked down the front nuts to hold it in place, reinstall the windage tray & pickup and put the pan back on. Pretty straight forward and I didn't have to do any grinding or adjustment to the scraper itself. Hope that helps. Edited February 12, 2015 by Savage42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) whew.. Got it installed last night. Pretty straightforward. It was a pain to get to the front 2 bolts, but a 10mm ratcheting wrench made it easier. Pan will slide down and back pretty easy. Edited February 19, 2015 by dreco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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