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What is with my timing?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I had a problem with my 82 280zx over heating. So I put a solution to clean the cooling system. That didn't work. So I changed the thermostat (which it did need). I said to myself, if I'm doing this, I might as well check the timing. I check the timing and it was advanced about 12 degrees. I thought it was supposed to be at zero. So I brought down the timing and it took all the power out of it. So I raised it to 14 degrees and it runs good while I'm driving. But the car idles at 1050 rpms. The chilton book says its supposed to be between 550 and 750 rpms at an idle. I tryed adjusting the idle screw down, but it won't go any lower. How do I get it down to idle correctly and still have my power?

 

[ June 05, 2001: Message edited by: Mikestime22 ]

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No offense, but sometimes no one knows or the people that do are not posting at the time. I am more familiar with V8s and find them easier to work on than a Datsun. I find it rather curious that the idle will not go down further than 1000 rpm, even after adjustment. Does the car still have an overheating problem since you did your cooling adjustments?

 

David

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Well, the 1000rpm idle is close enough for now--looks like you have bigger problems with fried wires and such. Hope some of the guys that run the same set-up can chime in. I don't want to say "take it to a Nissan mechanic" if you do all your own work, but an auto electrical place or FI place might be a good place to have it checked out if you cannot fix it.

 

David

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Like David sayd; I too am "NOT" a datsun expert. However; since you cant idle it down-maybe you have some vacuum leaks & there is {unmetered} air entering the engine-thus giving your engine the sensation of "Its Time To Accelerate" now.

 

Unmetered air will make your engine act like is should under acceleration. Put a cloth rag in front of the air intake to clog the engine's incoming air...if it speeds up then you have an air leak somewhere; if it chokes & then tries to die/then you have no air leak & this means you have other problems.

 

Sorry; but this is the extent of my tune-ability expertise/good luck & hope someone else chimes in here!

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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Guest Anonymous

I was going to suggest the same thing as Kevin. I'm not sure if its injected or not, on my carb'ed chevy my PCV valve for some darn reason was a major vacuum leak, the holley would not idle down and I could remove the idle adjustment screw and put it in my pocket and it would still idle at 1000 rpm's. Soon as I rectified that, it idled right down and sits at a steady 700 rpm's (probably could go lower, but its about where I like it.). Basically my chevy was leaning things out enough for the idle circuit not to work properly. Look for a air leak somewhere, unplugged hose or something like that. You can also unplug a line and block it off with your finger momentarely and see if the engine rpms drop down to the proper idle, if so see whats connected to that vacuum line and whats malfunctioning.

Perhaps someone can speak up on what Injection problem could cause the high idle?

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks everyone with the replies. I thought there was a tool I can hook up to my air system to find a vacuum leak. I'll see if I can find it. Thanks again.

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