Need verification that my engine build was done correctly.

[dpuma8]

Hi everyone, I finally got my engine back from the builder after 3.5 years and I want to make sure that the specs on it seem okay.  It was a hassle and in the end, the builder forgot to put the oil pump spindle in so I would like some input on a few mods he made.

 

F54 block with L28et ITM pistons with standard bore

Stage 2 port work on P90 head, machined for double springs

Isky Lash caps ground to .150" thick

Dougherty Racing Cam installed at 106 degrees

Schneider springs No 68022

Removed oil bypass in block and plugged hole

Ported inlet area under oil filter for better flow

 

Cam Specs

Advertised duration 272/272 degrees

Valve lift .410"/.410"

Centerlines Intake/Exhaust 110/110 degrees

Cam timing @ 0.20"

   Intake opens 26 BTDC degrees

  Intake closes 66 ABDC degrees

 

  Exhaust opens 66 BBDC degrees

  Exhaust closes 26 ATDC degrees

Lobe separation angle 110 Degrees

 

The turbo is a GT3076R .63 and I wanted this car to be streetable with some track use. 

 

Can I break in the new engine using a megasquirt tune from the sticky even though cam profiles might be different?

 

 

 

[grillhands]

Start up for 10 min then change oil.

 

Drive 50 miles at half boost and do alot of engine braking. You want the rings to set with your fresh hone. Change oil.

 

Drive 100 miles at the boost you want and really get on it. There is no point on nursing an engine for the brEak in then beating the hell out of it when all the parts already settled in. I've done this numerous times on 50 trim garretts on 1.8t and never had a puff of smoke or blow by.

 

Sorry, I just realized you asked what tune to use to break in the car, not the procedure.

Edited September 24, 2016 by grillhands

[grillhands]

This is just my 2 cents. I'm sure there are other ways but I think this way is proven and makes the most sense.