Hi everybody,first post. " were can I get JTR mounts?

[Guest Anonymous]

where can I buy these jtr motormounts?

how much are they?

are Z motorsports (orange,ca) better? or is there a differents?

 

now chevy motors.

what chevy do I go with (normal money range)?

I want to run carbs,is it better to do so or F.I.?

 

now trannys.

I like sticks.

is the R-700(I guess) is the best? or turbo tranny's?

what car has a 5-spd in it?

Thanks guy's. glad to be here.

[biohzrd]

try jtr. just kidding. www.jagsthatrun.com.

thats their sight.

[Guest Anonymous]

The JTR mounts can be made if you are capable or know a machinist that can help. Purchase the JTR manual for the complete setup and the plans.

The engine is all a matter of how much money you want to spend, however you can't complain much with the prices of the crate engines that are available. Check out www.paceparts.com since they deal heavily in the crate motor market.

There are several articles available on the installation of a manual trans so I would suggest to read all that you can before making your decision.

Good luck and most of all, have fun.

[DavyZ]

First off, welcome to the forum!

 

I think it is safe to say that everyone who has JTR mounts has been happy with them. In fact, some guys like Long Ta have converted over from a 'Scarab-type' of mount to the JTR version. Just food for thought.

 

As for $$$$ on motors, the sky is the limit. Use the search function in the Chevy forum to get the answers you need there. EFI is fine and JTR has a book on swapping TBI/TPI motors. Buy the books and read them before buying any parts (word to the wise).

 

Davy

[Guest Anonymous]

On trannies, the 700r is a automatic not a stick, the WC (world class) T5 manual 5sp will handle a lightly warmed over 350 provided you don't use slicks and you don't beat on it all day, if you do its bound to fail at some point, it just was'nt designed for that abuse (or even a 350 really). The T56 6sp is an execellent unit if I do say so myself (I have one so I'm biased I guess), it has fairly close ratio's and works very well. Its expensive (anywhere from 600-1700 bucks depending on condition and where you get it, you need to watch though, the internal shift rails can get broken from people bang shifting them without positive stop shifters) but IMHO its the transmission of choice for a manual hybridz.

Another overlooked 5sp is the tremec which is a strong unit, it'll run nearly the same as the more expensive T56's but can be bought new for about 1500.00 or so. Pete Paraska has one in his car and it looks like it fits sweet.

 

Thats about it, theres more pro's and con's I'm sure if you look under T56 or Tremec or T5 in the search function of the board, you'll uncover alot of comments made about all of them.

 

Good luck with your project,

 

Lone

[Guest Anonymous]

buy the jtr book.

 

take the page with the motor mounts to a copier, and copy it at 100 percent.

take the copy. glue to appropriate sized metal. commense to cutting and drilling. center punch holes through the paper as the first thing so that as you go, your paper will come apart and at least you will have the bolt holes.

requires torch/plasma cutter and drill and 10 bucks worth of metal and 2 hours of your time.

 

-doug miller

[Guest Anonymous]

Doug Miller gives good advice about the copying the mounts. I found that the copy came out 100% accurate for me for the motor mounts and spacers. ( re-measure the copy to make sure) The copy for the front crossmember mount (suspension) did not come out correct. I also bought a "transfer" punch the same size as the hole for the GM motor mounts which makes centering the holes easier when using the GM motor mounts on top of the paper copy on top of the motor mount plates. I made five mounts and constantly re-checked them for fit on a spare block. The aluminum spacers got a little off but larger holes drilled in them helped to align them.I only made one set of the aluminum spacers which I do not like even after they were polished to a chrome (shiney)surface. I also made the fuel pump block off plate out of aluminum by using a fuel pump gasket as a template with two "transfer punchs" of the apropriate hole sizes in the gasket (very useful tool over a regular punch). You want a pecise fit on the motor mount plates though.I bought a lot of material since I figured it was about as cheap to make 5 sets than just one and a lot of room for error.I am dressing that spare block for fit of all the modications and mounts before pulling and installing the donor small block.I plan to do about 3 conversions.Use grade 8 bolts which are not that expensive and super strong.I used a Rigid metal cutting bandsaw that could be adusted to cut the angles except one angle on the driver's side motor mount plate. I am still trying to find a machinist to modify the cast exhaust headers. Lot of machinists but I want a cheap one I can afford