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motor mounts?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

anybody out there have any ideas on how to make the motor mounts for a SBM to fit into a ZX? this is a little early for me to ask this since i'm not even to this stage of the buid yet but i was curious. I seem to remember saying something about using the motor mounts out of a truck and welding them to the cross member. was that you john? i don't think we will have to use a offset plate but i'm not sure.

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Guest Anonymous

just to let you guys know i'll be doing a mock up with my bare block tomorrow and i will make sure to snap some pics with my girlfriends digital camera (really want to buy one but the nice one are still pricey icon_sad.gif ) I'll post them to let you guys see and tell me what you think.

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Guest John Adkins

Isn't the crossmember in a ZX about 3 inches closer to the firewall than a Z? I seem to recall that being the case.... If I remember correctly, with a small block Chevy in a ZX, the setback plates that are used with a Z aren't needed and the mounting towers on the crossmember line up directly the small block Chevy mounts. Could someone with a V8 ZX please verify that I have this right ? icon_biggrin.gif

 

With a small block Mopar, the motor mount points on the block are about 2.75" forward of mounting points on the Chevy block. On a ZX it seems like you would need something similar to the setback plates used on a Z but reversed since the mopar mounting points are forward. I hope that makes sense... icon_smile.gif

 

The mounts I am using are the truck/van mounts,which will be cut down about an inch and welded back together. They are simply C shaped steel pieces that are about 3 inches tall stock. On a Z these will line up with the mounting towers on the Z crossmember with the rubber isolator in between.

 

Maybe you could use the truck/van steel mounts as a starting point and modify for the ZX?

 

[ September 06, 2001: Message edited by: John Adkins ]

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search the archives, for a ZXV8 it's simply the truck OEM mounts and 'shims' b/t the mounts and the block (directly bolt thru mount and shims to the block, you space it same as JTR for thickness as geometry is same or very similar b/t Z & ZX. Then just one bolt from underside into the motor mount.

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Guest John Adkins

Thanks Ross! so the spacers(thickness) between the block and mount are the same between the Z and ZX but the steel plates used to set the engine back closer to the firewall arent used... check this thread:

V8 ZX mounts

 

[ September 06, 2001: Message edited by: John Adkins ]

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Yeah, you got it John. I can't say offhand if we need to account for the thickness of the setback plate in your shims as well....frame to Xmember spacers will help with hood clearance a LOT. I had my two sides appropriately spaced (ala JTR) but on last install I screwed up and put them in at equal height both sides icon_confused.gif , it's OK but I hope to correct it tonight or tomorrow when I hope to dive in and:

-replace motor mounts

-find whatever is sucessively getting 'looser' in my front end/steering rack/bearings/tc rods/control arms

-rebalance my wheels

-get an alignment

 

To eliminate some bugs I've been tolerating and enjoy the autox for our event on Saturday...I'm almost hoping it rains as that can be more fun icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

hey guys sorry i didn't post any pictures yet icon_sad.gif but the motor i was tearing down turned out to be a dud! you should have seen what had happened to this motor. i originally thought that it had thrown a rod and the operator was smart enough to shut it down quickly after the incident. but apparently it looks like he was rapping the hell out of it even after the rod went. two pistons were mangled, one of them still had HALF of the con ron attached while the other was barely recognizable as a piston icon_eek.gif the a couterweight on the crank was chewed all to hell. plus not to mention the almost half inch deep dent/crack down part of a cylinder wall. oh well i geuss can't whine too much icon_wink.gif

i found another 318 block to use for the price of a whopping $40 now i just have to tear it out of the truck. this one should be a lot better. it dropped a valve but i know the person who owned this and i'm sure he caught the problem before it became catastrophic. ill let you guys know tomorrow when i go to pick it up.

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