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Fitting a 1965 mopar 383 into my 74 260Z


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Can anyone give advice on what I'm gonna have to change, cut, and rip out to fit that big block in there???? :confused I'd really could use some help

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Guest John Adkins

A mopar big block is about an inch bigger in all dimensions than the small block Chevy, so it should fit in a Z. A 383 would be about 150lbs. more weight than an SBC. They fit into the pre-'67 Mopar A-bodies which have much narrower engine comparments! The front-mount distributor would probably make it easier to set the engine back close to the firewall.

The car center sump pan looks like it should fit if the engine is set back close to the firewall; if not, Mopar Performance has a rear sump pan available.

 

Block hugger headers are available but I'm not sure if there's room. Motor mounts would have to be fabricated. The oil pump on the left side of the motor near the motor mount might get in the way.... Get out the tape measure and start measuring!

 

To give you some ideas, here is a link to big block RX7 swap:

http://www.kenalbin.com/rx7pics.html

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Tht1KSguy

hey John, who has block hugger headers available... i'm coming down to crunch time on an engine decision... and the main hiccup i'm running into w/ the mopar swap is getting the exhaust out of the engine bay for the 451 buildup. I'm not too excited about welding up a set of headers and i just plain ole' doubt 1 7/8"ish primaries will fit, and manifolds just seem very counterproductive. Wretched excess is best. Anyone else's suggestions would be appreciated.

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Guest Tht1KSguy

ahhh thanks John... now for the next question. Will they fit in the car? I measured the engine bay yesterday inside of the frame rails was about 25" if i'm not mistaken... anyone have a B block w/ heads on it laying around so we can measure the width between the exhaust flanges on the heads and then break out the geometry calculators to see if the headers fit?

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Guest Anonymous

I'm doing a swap of a 67 383 into my son's 70 datsun 240z. we have backhalved the car with 2x3 frame rails and installed a 4 link, coilovers and a narrowed ford 9inch rear(36" flange to flange) with 15.5 mickey thompsons . My older son had a 67 dodge coronet with a 383/727 auto we had built up that he didn't want anymore(in college now). So I'll be pulling out of the dodge and putting it into the datsun. I had actually built up a mild small block to put into the datsun but after measuring the engine compartment I saw that it actually had more room than a B body mopar when you take into account the torsion bars and the crossmember. For motor mounts I plan on using Elephant ears fastened to the frame rails on each side this eliminates problems for the headers ( I have used this on all my BB / abody swaps) and will allow room for the rack and pinion steering shaft. Having used BB mopars for over 30 years I can tell you anyone that is considering this swap needs to consider FULL reinforcement of the frame and suspension or you'll be picking up your windshield off the pavement when you twist the body in half. regarding headers, I dont think There will be any problems. Ill keep everyone informed of whether I route them under the car or route them like fenderwell headers just aft of the shock strut towers.

Good luck on your project icon_cool.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Yes those are the mounts. small pieces of angle iron welded to each frame rail with a hole in them and you are in business. Remember that this will push your water pump (and pulleys) 1/4 further out. You can have the water pump milled 1/4" or you can use double pulleys on the crank and use the pulley that matches up and change the alternator mounts to compensate. You will get a little more vibration in the car but on the bright side you wont have to buy a torque strap to keep from breaking motor mounts! (3 motor mounts and 2 torque straps later!) 2 schools of thought on the 440 crank in the 400 block. either bore the mains to 440 size or grind the crank down to 400 mains. I would prefer to bore the block to the 440 size. This would allow you to use any 440 crank or (say a used hemi stroker) to create up to 490+ cubic inches. without having to grind each crank you decide to put in.

 

best of luck

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Guest Tht1KSguy

Ahhh... are you talking about front mount motor plates? i still have the 400/727 for $200 if i want it then i just need to come up w/ a steel 440 crank & rods. I'm thinking more and more about this version of the buildup... which is less likely to be a driver and more of a weekend/fun car. Ehhh i'm young.. might as well have some fun icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

whats your thoughts onthose 451 motors mopardad? i talked to one guy and he told me that after years of building 440s he had built one 451 and that was all it took. he told me he wasn't going to another 440 if he wanted power he was going to do a 451 from now on. he also told me these motor like to rev faster than a 340. sounds like a real screamer to me. but i would like to get more than one persons opinion on them. I've always been on he lookout for a 72 cuda to do a bigblock project in and this was what i was thinking about putting in it. all just a dream right now. but i figure after i make my first million icon_wink.gificon_razz.gif i should be able to buy a 72 convertible cuda and buy my crhistmas wish list of parts for it

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Guest Anonymous

the 451 is a great engine and the parts (ie pistons)are being kept in stock by more and more companies KB is even making Hypereutectic versions now. Yes they rev like a scalded dog. Question would be purpose. If you plan on building an engine just for the street you will rarely see the other side of 5000 rpm this is where the 451 with say the stage IV heads has the advantages over a well build 383 or 440. Most 451 pistons are set up for about 10.5 to 1 compression which is a little much for gas at your local pump. Yes the pistons are about 4 POUNDS lighter altogether but they are also much shorter which can cause piston rock and hurt sealing in the street engine in the long run. I might be opening a can of worms here, but, for a stable, inexpensive, street big block for everyday driving, and one that you don't want to have to rebuild all the time I would stick with what chrysler gave me and parts that can be bought at my local parts store stick in a slightly stouter cam from Hughes, enlarge the oil system pickup to hemi size, maybe port the heads with the MP templates and you'll have more than enough torque for the street.

 

In a Datsun its all wretched excess anyway. icon_cool.gif

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Guest Tht1KSguy

OK i think i've decided now... spent the last 2days reseaching Mopar stuff... think i've pilaged every mopar book at the bookstores now icon_smile.gif i'm going to call the guy on the 400 today and tell him that i do want it... now i just have to plan a saturday to go up to nebraska to get it... i'll probably run the Stage VI or Edelbrock heads. The engine only has 10k original miles so i probably won't overbore it this time around... i should be able to find a burnt 440 crank easily.. that's why i'm going w/ the turned down crank vs. the bored mains.

Here's a good link on the 451 combo 451 FAQ

have a good one

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