Guest Anonymous Posted November 18, 2001 Share Posted November 18, 2001 I put the trans and bellhousing in today and the only problem I see is the old crossmember mount has to come out to clear the shifter likages for the 833. The shifter is directly under the old shifter hole. The shifter handle will need to be bent over to be inline with the hole but that is no problem. Does anyone see a problem in taking out the old crossmember mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest super280z Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 there's actually no problem with that at all. the standart Jags That Run guidelines require the removal of the old stuff and use a fabricated crossmember that bolts to the floorpans. keep us posted!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Theres a few methods, but I found a air chisel cuts through the old xmember mounts like butter. Both off in 10 min even using a chinese cheapie air chisel. (use earplugs... ) Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Adkins Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 Hey Landis: Cool! The other day I was measuring the distance of shifter mounts on the tailshaft of the A833 OD from the bellhousing face and it came out to be about 26"-- which is nearly identical to the T56, and now you've confirmed it, since you've found that the shifter is under the Z's shifter hole... Here's of picture of the Mopar A-body console shifter with the offset handle. Do you think this would fit through the Z's existing shifter hole? (there's 3 of them on Ebay right now) I'm freshening up my 318 right now.... its apart and I have a hotter cam on order along with some new bearings... Probably won't have it back together until December sometime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 19, 2001 Share Posted November 19, 2001 From the pic it looks like it might be a little to far to the pass side. I am just going to take my floor shifter and bend it right above where it bolts to the shifter case. I am planning on putting it back up on the lift and measuring and writing everything down this time. I will also put the engine in. the next week or two I have all the time in the world thanks to turkyday. I'll keep you guys posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 20, 2001 Share Posted November 20, 2001 I stuck the whole drivetrain in today just to look for any problems. The only thing that worries me is the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. It hits the steering rack. If I put the engine in so the balancer was in front of the rack it would be like 8 inches away from the firewall. I was hopeing to somehow get it behing the rack but it looks like it might work being a 1/4 above it like jtr. the motor mounts look dead on. They will need shortned though so they are not up so high. What do you guys think about just using the rubber pad from the 6 and shortning the truck mount to compensate. well I will try that tomorrow to see how it works. Have to go get a set of manifolds too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 I put the motor in again with the bell on just to take some measurements and the motor mounts are 1 1/2 inches back from the originals. this is with the distributor 1 inch away from the firewall. There might be a problem with the driver side manifold. The sterring shaft looks close and angle milling isn't a option because of a wierd knob on the block? It should clear but one of the manifold bolts is right over the shaft. For the chevy install they move it 1 inch to the pass side per jtr. I only have it 1 centimeter to the pass side so I have room to play. I'll keep you posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Adkins Posted November 21, 2001 Share Posted November 21, 2001 in A-body mopars the small blocks are offset to the right about 1.5 inches stock.... The a-body driver's side exhaust manifold is also designed to clear the steering shaft and steering box in an a-body, so this might be an option. But from the measurements I took, a center-dump exhaust manifold should fit if the motor is offset to right like JTR or mopar A-body. I shortened up the mopar truck mount so that they are the same as height as the jtr mounts (2.25" driver side, 1.25" pass. side) don't know how they'll fit yet, havent tried it yet. But I can just add spacers if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 I have a set of the a body headers you talk about but the flange is broken off on the drivers side. These would work perfect as there would be no need for any offset. What year a bodies did these come in? Are they also in the duster/demon/dart. The set I have came out of a barracuda. Too bad they're broken. Do you think the block huggers would be closer to the block on the flange part. The headers in PAW are shortie headers and they look like they would work perfect. time for turkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Adkins Posted November 26, 2001 Share Posted November 26, 2001 They came in pretty much all the small block V8 equipped A-bodies (dart, valiant,duster,demon, barracuda) from 64(?) to '76 (barracudas to '69 only). The 273 and 318 versions are easier to find, but the 340 version is better flowing and more expensive. Here is a picture I found on ebay of 340 driver's side manifold (why is it all ebay pictures have the parts upside down or backwards?) But it might be better just to offset the motor to the right like the JTR conversion so you can use block huggers or more common center dump manifolds. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 26, 2001 Share Posted November 26, 2001 engine hoist seal blew the other day. Try getting a engine out without a hoist or rafters that will support a engine. Picture me using a lift and a couple of 4x4s what a mess. I'm planning on going center dump manifolds. they should work fine with minimal offset. Going will be kinda slow till I get a new hoist because I really don't want to see my engine going down through my engine bay in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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