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dumb ? about a zx swap


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

This is probably a dumb question, but I have to ask it anyway. I am looking at the mounts that came from my zx and I am comparing them to the mount from a 67 to 72 chevy pickup and I notice they both mount to the frame with one large bolt. My question is why not just use these to mount the engine in place? I mean even if I were to shim up the bottom say a half inch, on the driver side. I still wouldn't have to modify anything. This is too obvious so I am missing something here. I have a bare block that I am going to put a pan on and try these mounts as I don't see why it wont work. :confused:

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Guest greimann

It may very well work as you suspect. I am using a flat plate to adapt the four bolts on the mount that I am using to the single bolt pattern on the ZX crossmember. Pix of these can be found at the link in my signature.

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Guest Anonymous

Nice job Greimann. Looks very good. Did you have to use any spacers to clear the front of your pan? The way mine is looking I will bolt directly to the datsun frame with the chevy truck mount. I suspect I may have to install some sort of small plate like yours, just to keep the rubber off the frame, for movement purposes. The chevy mount is shaped at the top like it was made for this purpose. It just lays over the top of the datsun frame, and mates the angles perfectly. ;)

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Ziggy, that's exactly what I have. The Chevy mounts bolt directly to my Xmember with their single tapped hole (approprite bolt/washer installed from underneath) with flat aluminum spacers (to clear my pan) placed between the actual Chevy mount and Chevy block. Depending on your spacer thicknesses you may have to open up the Xmember hole to allow bolting up the Chevy mount. My current 'high' location to clear oilpan to my R&P manual steering requires ~2.25" of spacers per side just by memory (and actual chevy spacer was perhaps .5-0.7" thick or so?, can measure if you want...email me personally in case I miss your post if desired).

 

This spring I"ll be lowering my motor to integrate that mod at same time as new headers/exhaust.

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Guest greimann

I do have a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side to help the manifold clear the steering box. The oil pan clears the X member fine. If you have the rack and pinion steering, you have different clearance issues than I. coollook.gif

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Dave, your pics appear to show about 2" of spacing from motor to Xmember including the mount itself which is very similar to my setup. I know my R&P clearance requirements are different but I've shaved my oilpan and massaged the rack mounting points such that I don't think our engines are sitting too differently. Yours might be 3/4" lower than mine? What type of air cleaner (ie. dropbase) and size filter do you run? I've always run a drop base with 14x2 but once I space down my Xmember and tweak mounts a little more I plan to go to a different cold air setup.

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Guest Anonymous

Thank you Ross c and Greimann, The info you have given me will get me going soon. My Z has the power steering gear box on the left with no rack at all. I dont think I'm going to need much in the line of spacing, but if I doo I beleive I will just fab an AL block on the engine side. This looks to be one of the easiest engine swaps I have attempted. Again thanks for the info.

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Guest greimann

Ross,

 

I guess I define a spacer that is what I have added beyond the stock Chevrolet parts. The clamshell and rubber biscuit (isn't that a Blues Brothers song?) are Chevy mounts. My aircleaner is a drop base 14 x 3 on an Edelbrock Performer manifold and Holley TBI. Even with a carb on, the 14 x 3 just clears the hood.

 

Ziggy,

 

About the only difficulty is getting your exhaust manifold to clear the steering box. I have one that is casting number 364747. It has a dip in the side to provide clearance. A rams horn or other log style wont fit very well (or at all).

 

I am re-assembling the engine compartment right now. After I finish, I'll get more pix up on the site.

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