Guest 327zxer Posted March 22, 2003 Share Posted March 22, 2003 Alright I have to buy mounts that attach to my 1965 chevelle 327 small block because I bought the engine without the mounts so what should I do. I am going to do the flat plate mounting thing. I don't know about the electrical yet. I am going to have a distributor with points in it. I am going to be using a T-5 tranny. Another question what am I supposed to do about the driveshaft situation. The engine is in the stages of being built right now. Comp cam solid lifter, solid magnum cam 294 duration, edelbrock air gap intake manifold, cloyes timing chain, new crankshaft, i still have to build up the heads now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted March 23, 2003 Share Posted March 23, 2003 Alright I have to buy mounts that attach to my 1965 chevelle 327 small block because I bought the engine without the mounts so what should I do. I am going to do the flat plate mounting thing. I don't know about the electrical yet. I am going to have a distributor with points in it. I am going to be using a T-5 tranny. Another question what am I supposed to do about the driveshaft situation. The engine is in the stages of being built right now. Comp cam solid lifter, solid magnum cam 294 duration, edelbrock air gap intake manifold, cloyes timing chain, new crankshaft, i still have to build up the heads now. For your mounts, I would suggest you find the "clamshell" style brackets and isolators. They came on late '70's GM cars. For your distributor, if you can swing it I woulld highly recommend an HEI distribuitor instead of points. It is a drop in swap. Points are difficult to tune and HEI is set it and forget it. For your driveshaft, wait until you get the engine and transmission installed so you have the distance fixed. Visit your local drivetrain shop and explain to them what you want to do and they will be able to explain how to measure the length and what parts you will need. Also be aware that an Edelbrock air gap manifold will eat up precious hood clearance that is very limited in a ZX. You will probably need a hood scoop of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob L Posted March 24, 2003 Share Posted March 24, 2003 For what its worth' date=' I think the 327 is probably one of the best bore/stroke combinations for a light car like the Z. Good luck with your swap. Mike[/quote'] I think the best bore to stroke ratio is the one with the biggest stroke that doesn't bust your budget or compromise your ring package. I had a Chevy 302 that would get walked by comparably build 350s. Bore to stroke, rod to stroke, ... in my estimation, it's all overrated. Go big. The NMCA guys have an interesting saying: "Go big, or go home early." 'nuff said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spunkula Posted March 24, 2003 Share Posted March 24, 2003 Bob explain for us newbies what you ment exactly about going big... r u just saying that bigger displacement is alwasy better or the bigger the better on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob L Posted March 24, 2003 Share Posted March 24, 2003 Bob explain for us newbies what you ment exactly about going big... r u just saying that bigger displacement is alwasy better or the bigger the better on everything. I would never rebuild a 327 unless: 1. it was for matching numbers purposes, or 2. it was a dirt cheap rebuild, rings and bearings only. If you are buying pistons, the incremental cost between a 327 and a 383 is basically the cost of the crank, balancing, (and a set of good rod bolts) and a used 350 block. For that, you get 50 cubic inches of displacement, about 50-55 ft lb's of torque, and more horsepower. I think a 3.75" stroke is the sweet spot on 9.025" deck small blocks. I don't like really thin rings or clearance problems associated with longer strokes. A 4.125" bore is great, but it add's expense relative to a 4" bore. I could see myself boing a 4" bore for financial reasons. But I see no reason to rebuild a Chevy 305. What I'm getting at, perhaps long way around, is that there's a sweet spot, on the big end of the displacement versus cost curve, where you get a lot of incremental performance for not a lot of incremental dollars. I am suggesting aiming for that part of the curve. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 327zxer Posted April 5, 2003 Share Posted April 5, 2003 I have got the 327 version that cranks out about 280hp stock. In my opinion thats pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 327zxer Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 I think I will get the MSA mounts and there throttle cable,temperature sensor adapter basically there kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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