broken head bolts in block help!!!!!!!!

[Guest Anonymous]

Hi z dudes. I guess I'm a little late for some of you. I am a machine tool rebuilder and have had to remove eveything from studs to hard pins. First of all heating the block will work if you do it very, very slowly! Iron and steel have different expansion rates. Iron is faster so you must heat a large area, even down the sides to keep it from cracking. Keep the torch moving over an area about 3 inches all around. This should take at least 20 minutes. Keep the flame 2-3 inches away. Kroil and WD40 use propane for a propellant so use caution! Try to file some flats on the bolt so you can get a good bite with the visegrips. Turn the bolt back and forth until it starts to come loose. Continue this all the way out because the rust can gall the threads making it even harder to get out. You can tap the bolt squarely on top with a small sledge hammer to help get it started. If it doesn't start, keep oiling and heating it. Don't be afraid of getting it to hot as long as you do it gradually! A propane torch doesn't have enough BTUs to melt it. If the bolt is broken off short, Centerpunch it first, drill it with a center drill and then a cobalt drill. I don't like EZ outs because they expand the bolt even more so try it last.

Another way is to rent a magnetic base drill and drilling it out. First centerdrill then increaseing drill sizes until there is only threads left. Buy a helicoil set for that size bolt from a machine shop supply, it comes with a drill, some helicoils a tap and an installation tool. If you have more than one bolt to replace this is the best way to go because you can do it cheap yourself and the block stays in the car!

Good luck, Tom

[Guest Anonymous]

So when did they start making these and how long have racers been using them i have heard all most all of the guys on the track swear by them and from what i gather they are the way to go.