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quick t-5 slave cylinder question


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i am trying to rebel and do my entire swap without ever buying the jtr book.... i just got to the part where my engine and tranny is sitting in the engine bay... i was on ebay just now and i found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420949580&category=33733 i was just wondering if it will work or not? (i do all my own custom fabrication so mounts and brackets arent a problem) thanks -pete

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Guest greimann

Along with fabbing up brackets, you migh have to play around with the geometry of the throw out arm to make sure you get disengagement. Altering the arm geometry means moving the push point of the slave push rod closer to the pivot to get the right throw. I had the Datsun slave cylinder pushing a modified arm on my T5 for a long time, before I went to a hydraulic release bearing.

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You would use the push slave cylinder on a Camaro-type fork. (the pull slave cylinder on a Ford package-Mustangs use "pull" cables for the clutch linkage from '74 to '93.) The bracket would be bolted to the side of the block, probably forward of the bellhousing.

Here are some photos of fabricated brackets from 70's era race cars that might give you some ideas. The transmissions are Muncie 4-speeds, but the push clutch fork and bellhousing is the same.

album_pic.php?pic_id=1187

album_pic.php?pic_id=1188

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alright.. is the hydraulic release bearing worth the money?? dont you also need a new master for the hydraulic release bearing? as of right now i just want to get my car on the road so i can enjoy some of the summer. now are both types of slaves shown there? why would anyone have two slaves???? sorta confused

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Guest greimann

In my opinion, the Mcleod hydraulic release bearing was money well spent ($300) for several reasons.

 

1. Solved my reliability issue when using the Datsun slave in a custom setup. I would have to replace the slave about every year because it would wear out the piston. Mostly due to a slight off angle and higher pedal pressure.

 

2. Is very smooth. There are fewer moving parts and hence less friction in the system to take away feel.

 

3. It is compact. There is no throw out arm to worry about clearance.

 

 

You do need a new master cylinder, but the kit from PAW has a master included in the box.

 

Who knows why the seller has both slaves? Maybe he is a packrat like the rest of us? You only need one slave per vehicle, (yea, tell that Cleopatra).

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i am trying to rebel and do my entire swap without ever buying the jtr book....

 

If you want to be a rebel that's fine, but I prefer to learn from other peoples misstakes, it's cheaper and easier. The hydraulic thowout bearing is a great way to go, but the jtr way works fine too and is cheaper.

 

If you have the T5 slave already all you need is a Tilton or Howe 7/8" master , a steelbraided line, and a few parts from the hardware store. Oh, and the jtr book for instructions. :D

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hrm..... well the reason i didnt buy the jtr is because so far everything ive done pretty much effects the jtr mount method which is why i made mounts off of my tubular frame rails and why im making a tranny mount off of my subframe connectors, also i just picked up a pair of headers off of an 86 corvette for 100 bucks without the air tubes... i hear these are worth big bucks... is this true???

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