Thinking of switching 350SBC to GN

[Guest m35514h]

What kind of work would this pertain. Would the mounts work the same? I was also wondering how fast some of you guys went on stock GN setups. I am running low 8's in the 1/8th and i havent gotten a good run at the 1/4 mile track. I was just wondering if a stock GN setup would be much faster than what i am running right now. I see this as the next best thing to owning a GN. What are the differences between the GN setup and the Regal T-Type setup? If i can get a T-Type motor would it be virtually the same, or would i be disappointed. Any info would be great.

[Guest Want aZ]

hey M keep in mind that SOME T-Types had the GN Engine, I KNow cause My Dad has one, with a bench seat, and Column shift auto...They are out there....

 

Damon

[Scottie-GNZ]

Turbo Regals and GNs use the identical drivetrain and ironically, the TRs are usually lighter. There was even a lightweight special-edition TR, codename WE4.

 

There is no kit for the Buick swap so plan on making new engine and tranny mount brackets.

 

Let me address the question of how fast a Z would be with a stock Buick drivetrain by saying that number would be meaningless because no one leaves the Buick turbo stock as it is too damn easy to get another 75hp The 1st time I took my setup to the track, I had a bone stock engine, ran 17psi,, launched it off idle with street tires and got a horrible 2.19 60', had 3.90 gears (bad!) and really did not know how to tune it.

 

60' - 2.19

1/8 - 8.18 @ 91.93

1/4 - 12.41 @ 114.7

 

2 months later, I went:

60' - 1.63

1/8 - 7.34 @ 95.06

1/4 - 11.50 @ 117.24

 

Here is what it took to get there:

- 3.54 R200 - $0

- 20psi boost - $0 (stock turbo out of breath )

- Used upgraded wastegate elbow - $40

- Manual transbrake - $129

- Used McCreary G60-15 tires - $75

- Manual lockup switch for converter - $5

 

Having said all of that, I have to ask what are your performance goals and what setup do you have on your SBC? Too often I see folks disappointed with the SBC w/o realizing going into it that not all SBCs are born equal. I would say decide on your performance goals, understand what it would take to achieve that goal with what you have, then compare that to the cost of making the swap. If you have a run-of-the-mill SBC and your goals are high, it will take a sh*tload of $$$ which would be best spent buying a good crate motor, building one or modding an LT1 or LS1. Compared to doing the GN, the cost will probably be the same, especially if you have to pay to get the swap done. However, where a modded NA leaves off, the GN can continue. I know there will be folks out there saying modded NA can make big HP and no denying it but we do not know what kind of budget we are dealing with. BTW, are prepared for automatic only?

 

If your goal is reasonable, it might just take the right combo of parts to make your current setup fly. E.g., you did not specifiy your 60'. Folks do not seem to realize that if you have a fairly powerful car but can only cut 2.0s, you are giving away .5 in the 1/4-mile and all it takes is decent tires and practice. If you look at the 2 timeslips I have up there, the 2nd was a 41+hp improvement. How can only 41hp net .91 in the 1/4? Easy answer, the 60'. I say do not give up on your current combo yet unless your goals are really high.

[Guest m35514h]

my sbc has

.03 overbore

TRW flat top pistons

Vortech heads ported polished 3 angle valve job

RPM air gap intake

Edelbrock 750cfm carb

 

Soon to have 150 shot of nitrous

 

my 60ft is a 2.5 most times...

 

I am connecting my subframes in an attempt to change this, as well as getting some better tires under there. Hopefully the nitrous will help me at the top of the track essentially the way a GN's turbo would. I will continue with this, but the 3.6 turbo will always be in my heart.

[Scottie-GNZ]

You did not say how quick/fast you want to go, but what you have there could take you a long way before you add nitrous. Do not add NOS or any other power adders until you have maximized what you have, else you will just be masking a bad setup/tuneup. If this was my car, I would add a mild cam, whatever Edelbrock recommends with that intake and work on the 60'. The 60' is your biggest problem right now and improving it will net you a bunch, probably even more than the cam.

 

For every .1 you affect the 60', you affect the 1/4-mile ET by .15. Do not know how else to say it, but a 2.5 60' is bad!. Set a goal of a 1.8 60' and that will net you 1-sec in the 1/4-mile. People spend BIG $$$ to gain 1-sec. Find a pair of 235/60-15 BFG DRs, mount them on some spare rims and use those for the track. Then practice to find out what is the best way to launch the car. You will probably find out that the hardest launch technique is sometimes not the quickest.

[Guest m35514h]

i have a 278 energizer cam, all that i am really lacking is the 60ft, different heads or nitrous. The heads i have offer an awesome torque curve. Almost unnaturally flat, but they may be a tad restrictive. I am going to work on my 60fts but the nitrous is extra from other projects so it is free. Plus there are 30 dollar for 3 runs on a dynojet in dallas.

 

I really want low 12s high 11s

[Scottie-GNZ]

If you are already running low-8s, that's about 12.70-80, so just working on the 60' will get you there. Add the nitrous AFTER you nail down launching the car.