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lt1 ?'s


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

is the lt1 worth the $2000 price tag for a complete engine? i want to rebuild an engine for my z. but i dont know a whole lot about the lt1 specifically. would i be just as well off building an older 350 or 400 sbc and eqiuping it with efi? i want to use efi if at all possible. i contacted hp salvage and he has a couple lower mileage lt1's for around 2G and a higher mileage one for 1400. on the other hand i scanned the local trader and found several older chev's with 350's or 400's for around $500- $800 for complete running cars. i also priced some crate motors but to get efi on a hp sbc crate seems to require removing 2 of my appendages and giving up my 1st born. grumpy? anyone?

nic

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Guest Anonymous

The computer controlled engines start looking much better when you add up what a fuel injection system cost you complete. Considering most of those motors come with all the front accessory drive (which granted takes a bit of ingenuity to delete what you want and still make it work) its not a bad deal. The 500-800 + 1500+ for a fuel injection system somewhat shows they aren't that far apart price wise in real world terms (but yeah in real wallet terms I agree they're more expensive).

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Does the $2K pricetag include ECU and complete engine wiring harness - not cut up? If not that price will rise noticably! Try to get the engine harness etc. or you'll be piecing it together :( IMO buying an injected motor complete is a great way to go as rebuilds tend to cost more than you expect - mine sure did.

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Guest Anonymous

The LT1s have a lot of potential, too, since all the F-body and Vette versions come with good flowing aluminum heads,hydraulic roller cams, and a decent intake. Any heads from a 70s or 80s car are probably going to be junk performance wise, or at the least require a lot of work/money. I have looked at going carbed small block, TPI, LT1, and keep coming back to the fact that the LT1 offers a lot of bang for the buck. Initially, yes, its more expensive, and some service parts are pricey (Optispark), but I believe the benefi ts outweigh the costs. rockon.gif

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Guest Anonymous

well the price really isnt giving me that much sticker shock..... after reserching a bit i knew i would have to spend 4 to 6k for the numbers i want.... but there doesnt seem to be as much aftermarket support for lt1's as there is for older sbc's. my concern is that in the rebuild and build up of the lt1 ill have to change much of the injection anyway and that get expensive quick. does anyone know of the specific differences between the older sbc and lt1's besides the roller cam and better heads?

i know i can change the intake to the stealthram and stroke to 383... but will i have problems with finding headers and such? also has anyone who swapped in the lt1 gotten 450- 500 horse outta this motor? if so whatcha do to it?

 

blkmgk..... how much for the flywheel?

thanks for the help guys (im trying to get this done in less than 11 years) tongue.gif

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Guest Anonymous

The LT1 has reverse cooling, meaning the heads are cooled before the block (opposite of a regular small block). Therefore, cooling passages in the block and heads are different. The face of the block is also different, since the timing cover has to accomodate the Optispark distributor (driven off of the cam dowel pin) as well as the drive for the water pump. The timing set and cover are specific to the LT1, though if you convert to an electric water pump you can use a regular SBC hydraulic roller type timing set. As far as internals go, you can use any crank designed for a 1 piece rear main seal SBC; the rods, pistons, bolts, etc are all standard small block stuff. Regular SBC headers will bolt up, as do motor mounts (without the factory AC compressor, that is). The injection system will support in the neighborhood of 500 NA RWHP, with very little modification. A set of injectors, a 58mm throttle body, and some porting is about all it takes. If you want 400 RWHP, that could be done with a stock bottom end, head work, cam, and bolt ons (with computer tuning, ie dyno time). Want more? Get a stroker kit from Eagle and build a 383, or for a little more a 396. 450-500 RWHP is possible NA, with the right combo. You can run high compression (approaching 12:1) with these motors on pump gas...stock is 10.4.

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Guest Anonymous

Glad I could help. I have been messing with 4th gen F-bodies since early 95 (mostly LT1s)...I've had three of them, and have 2 now...and have run across quite a bit of info on these motors since then. Hopefully I'll have my 240Z soon, and can start building a screamer. BTW, if you need any parts, check with Bruce at Hawk's Third Gen Parts(yes, third gen, but he does get some LT1 stuff sometimes) in Easley, SC (864-855-2694), or http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com

Scott at http://www.speedautomotive.com

is also a good source, but hes a little further (in Cleveland, TN). For new engine parts, call Cliff Jones at Barnett Performance in Atlanta (800-533-1320). They aren't very well known outside of GA, but their prices are at worst the SAME as Summit or Jeg's, and usually lower. They stock a LOT of parts, and can help you with LT1s, small blocks, big blocks...whatever.

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Guest Anonymous

Was'nt (isn't?) Darius's car a blown (and stroked?) LT-1? I'm sure that would put down the numbers you want easily, just watch those 60 mph burnouts... :eek:

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

im gonna check those guys out and maybe some other local yards and see what i can come up with..... although maybe i should wait till im a little farther along to pick up the engine. right now im fighting a war with way too many fronts. being in the process of priming, painting and chassis reinforcement, carbon fiber and fiberglass parts development, and TONs of honey-dos maybe i should hold off till i get a few of my irons outta the fire. anywho if i find a cheap place ill let everyone know about it.

nic

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