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My 280z project


Guest 72datsun240z

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Guest 72datsun240z

Hey i recently bought a 280z and i have at my body shop at school geting painted i am going with a very cool color thats going to be a surprise until the day i post pictures on this forum of of it. But i want some advice. What i am doing is kind of making it into a 240z(i always liked them better).My 72 project is kind of pissin me off right now so i ain't even gona say anything about it . well anyway i already fabbed up the 240z bumper to fit smoothly on there and i i cut out the rear tail light plate to put the 240z tails on it monday i am adding a 240z hood (just cuz the 280's is made of rust).now the hard part the rust around my gas door is so bad that i decided to cut it out and weld another piece inter with a tube going down to the gas cap (its really hard to explain) anyways than i wanna shave the rear bumper so no bumper just kind of have a roll pan and i wanna shave the side markers . I know it might sound a little crazy but i seen it done before and i like it . Now i want your honest opinions and advices (so if your opinion is go see a shrink thats fine )

 

thanks for any help

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Well most of what you want to do has been done before so be sure to search and just browse the paint and body topics tons of info there. I personally like the 280 lights rather than the 240 ones because they omit the amber color from them. I do like the shaved rear bumper and the 240 bumper is what makes the car. You will save quite a bit of weight by getting rid of those boat anchor 280 bumpers. Cant wait to see the pics of work and especially paint. Good luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 240hybrid

I used to have a 75 280, and if I remember correctly the holes for the bumpers are flush with the body. Not like the 240z's that is indented on the sides and extend out on the rear of the car where the bumper mounts too. So that saves you from having to cut out the mounts, and all you have to do is weld some metal in place of the holes. Weld it so its recessed just a bit so that it isn't high when you go to apply filler and smooth it out. Just watch out for heat from welding, "play-doh" (the stuff kids play with) will absorb good bit of heat when placed on the backside of the locations your welding. I find that laying about a 1/2" of weld down works best, and starting where you left off last helps too, after it cools down.

When you do any bodywork on your car, make sure to guidecoat it while doing the body work and guidecoat the primer coats too if you feel it needs it. Using some black or off color spray paint, spray the area of body work and then sand it after drying, you'll see where your highs/lows are. 1/4 light removal is pretty straight forward too and uses the same process as the rear. Here's some pics of my 240 after removing the 1/4s and mounts and welding in the sheetmetal... 449966_2_full.jpg

449966_5.jpg

Good luck, and wear a mask when sanding the filler. Chase

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