Guest ON3GO Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Ok guys this is the 1st L28ET swap im doing on my own and i just want to stay on the safe side. heres my parts list so far.. all of which i have. please tell me if im missing a important parts or if im set and ready to go. looking to have this car not break down on my all the time thanks 1982 280ZX Turbo Motor (L28ET) Conquest FMIC Custom 2inch intercooler piping ported/polished and shaved N47 Intake manifold Vortec FMU Blitz Super Sound Bov 240sx 60mm t-body 77 280z electronics/harness Ported Exhaust Manifold 2.5inch exhaust cutout NGK plug wires tuned AFM Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Blitz Intake Filter SVO injectors Autometer Phantom 2 5/8 Boost Gauge Autometer Phantom 2 5/8 100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge Autometer Stainless Steel Fuel Line w/ fittings Autometer Black Mounting Cup (for fuel gauge for outside the car) JSK New Billet Fuel Rail Electric Fan I replaced lots of new connectors new oil pan and valve cover gasket Butler Built Pro Comp Racing seat 2.5inch Exhaust Polished OHC valve cover am i missing something? ill be running 12psi and sometimes 16psi thanks again Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Head gasket choice? I haven't finished my motor to test anything yet but the amount of boost you plan to run is on the edge where you start to see people who favor o-ringing the cylinders (or at least conflicting opinions whether to 0-ring or not). To bad they don't make a metal layered gasket for z cars like they do for mustangs. I've read somewhere that some turbo race engine builders don't bother o-ringing with this style head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Looking for apt in Alb Ny Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 IM glad I blew my headgasket last year . It sure saved the engine . It was due to over boosting it and improper timing /fuel delivery. I was using a stock efi r u sure you want to use the stock efi alone Mike? Ive read as long as you keep detonation away a stock gasket will handle the HP no problem or using a metal one. Makes sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spork Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Actually, HKS makes a multilayer steel gasket for the car...I'm running one on mine. The only thing I'd comment on you list is going to be 2 things...the starion/conquest intercooler (you'll learn to regret it soon after install) and thenusing an FMU to increse fuel. Yes it's a cheap way of doing it, but trying to get your mixture right is pretty tough. Otherwise, the list looks decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 guys remember im on a stupid low budget. i havent even spent 600 bucks yet on this swap. im dead broke and i gotta use what i gotta use. i need to make this car reliable and i gotta do it with no money. should i get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? or do i not need it sence i have the FMU. also the conquest fmic should be fine, my friend chris thats on this forum made almost 300rwhp with it so ill be fine.. i just want 240rwhp or so. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Mike - Why don't you go with a Z31 turbo ECU, 83 turbo dizzy, Hot-wire AFM? This set-up is affordable, proven and somewhat more tunable in the future. You can rewire your current harness to work with the Z31 stuff. If you are looking for 240 hp cheap - get the turbo fuel pump out of the donor car, run a J-pipe initially, leave the P-90 alone (actually, leave the whole engine alone for right now). Don't buy a BOV right now - wait till you can afford to do the blingbling stuff. I ran 13.2's with stock pump and injectors with a crappy Supra IC at 12 psi - no BOV. I have ARP head studs with a stock head gasket. Head gasket failure typically only happens with tuning issues at low power levels (less than 350 hp). If you are blowing L series head gaskets, your engine is telling you there is something not right. I did a buddies car with a Z31 system, advanced the timing about 3-4 deg, with no IC and 10 psi, he runs 13.8's all day. Reliable and quick. I used a Z31 efi harness, because it was a 240 with no EFI system wiring present. Stock head gasket, turbo head bolts, N/A bottom end with flat tops, P90 head, engine driven fan. If you really want to do it on the cheap, separate out what you want from what you really need to get it up and running. I'm not saying go ghetto on it - that's no way to do anything - use stock parts from other applications where possible, buy used stuff, simplify your plan. You can do the other stuff later when you have the means. Good luck, whichever way you go. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 doug everything i posted is what i have already. i only have like 100 or so more bucks to spend and thats IT! im really REALLY getting low on funds. plus thing is i have to get this car running very quickly.. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Sorry Mike - I thought that you were looking for comments on your shopping list. It looks like you have everything you need to get it up and running. If the IC and tubing was already in a Z, that simplifies things quite a bit. I would spend the $100 on wideband dyno tuning for the rising rate regulator. No - you don't need to buy any other fuel pressure reg. Best bang for the buck now would be a mandrel downpipe off of the turbo. You can pick up a couple PSI and better spool-up easily and quickly. Good luck - Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 well i wanna make a downpipe but i can find a flange for the stock T3.. sucks. i dont need to go to get it tuned. my teachers who are pro tuners are gonna dyno tune it at my school. you know where i can get that flange so i can make a downpipe? mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 I built my own flange from 3/8" stainless, but you can do it from mild steel also. Just get a piece of 3/8" thick plate steel roughly the size of the inlet pattern of your stock downpipe from the scrap bin of a machine or welding shop Take your stock downpipe, make a pattern of the flange with heavy cardstock paper, and trace it out on the steel with a scribe. I used a bandsaw for mine (stainless), but given enough patience and persistance, all you need is a vice, hacksaw, drill(press) and an aggressive halfround file (or diegrinder with a carbide cutter). This is oldschool fabrication at its best. Cut out the exterior pattern (it doesn't need to be exact, drill the mounting hole pattern. Drill a pattern of holes around inside the traced pattern so you can cut a round circle with the hacksaw. Drill a big enough hole that you can take the blade out of the hacksaw, slip it through the hole, and clamp it back to the saw. Now you can cut the round hole in the center. File (or diegrind) the hole out to the edge of the scribe mark. Voila! Downpipe flange for maybe $10 and a lot of sweat. OR - Get ahold of Jeff P and see if he has any flanges left over that he will sell you. Quality mandrel bent pipes are available from Magnaflow exhaust - they are pretty cheap - I usually have a couple boxes full on hand for custom exhaust stuff. You can use 2- 45 deg bends if you are going 2.5" dia. Fit it up, mark it or tack weld it and then take it off and MIG weld it . Search will probably turn up a picture or two of Scottie's design of downpipe - It seems to be universally liked among turboz guys. Do you have shop facilities at the school you're at? You may be able to do this as a project and impress the sh*t out of your instructors because you have the ability to fabricate something. It is somewhat of a lost skill in todays world. You will never regret learning to hand-build things. Fabricating and fitting are the most important because you can always find a shop to weld the stuff together for you. Welding isn't usually the time-consuming part of hand building a one-off part. Happy building - Doug PS - I think that you need some way to retard the timing under boost - or there is going to be some pinging and piston destruction going on -- maybe the ECU, AFM and dizzy from the turbo car would be better than the stock 77 electrics or a MSD-6 with the boost retard sensing built into it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46101&item=7907839039&rd=1 Get it fast - 33 minutes left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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