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Simple remove and replace? Yeah, right!


Guest 305240

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Guest 305240

Today I attempted to put a lower valance off a 75 onto my 72. I want that large open look it gives. The honeycomb material for my custom grill will be comming in soon and I wanted to get ready for it.

 

First, I had to change the fiberglass headlight buckets to metal ones. The valance would not fit right otherwise. I had removed the whole header panel from the 75 to use on the 72. This was done by some very careful measuring, figuring, drawing lines, and a sawsall. Remember, my 240 was a parts car and had the rt front frame horn and whole header removed. I cut the 75's header panel just ahead of where the sway bar moounts. then straight up from there. A grinder, a hammer, made for a pretty good fitment. Everything lined up. Or so I thought.

 

3 hours later, I got it looking pretty good. all seams and hood lines up. I even trial fitted the 240 bumper and found I have to mod the bumper brackets to make it work.

 

Anyway, I can now see why some people have problems putting on front air dams and rear spoilers. After 30 years or so, the old body gets tweaked a little...something like mine.

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Guest 305240

The problem I had was with the fiberglass buckets not letting the 75 lower valance line up right. the body seams and lines didn't want to mate together. By switching to the metal buckets, I fixed the problem. I'd be willing to bet you could use the 240 valance if you used the 240 fiberglass buckets. I have a spare set now.

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The probl;em I had was that the lower radiator support is lower on the 280 so the mounting brackets were all in the way and had to be removed. It sure seemed like a good easy idea until I started, I ended up giving up because it wasn't worth the effort.

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Guest 305240

The universasl air dams sure looked good for awhile when I was in the middle of it. But, once I get an idea in my head, I'm an persistant old fart. It just seemed to me that if I was changing the whole nose off the 75 280, IE: buckets, lower valance, and the rad support which included parts of the inner fenders and front frame rails, that everything should line up. I wasn't about to give up.

 

Today I'll fab the 240 bumper brackets to fit the 280 nose. I know I'll have to get it re-cromed as I have to fill all the holes from the trim pieces.

 

When I get those fabed, then I'll take the whole nose assy/hood/fenders off as one might do a front clip. Then I can set the engine. It should be a little easier with the rad support in the way.

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I can be rather stubborn at times too. I could have made it work but wasn't all that determined, the 280 nose on a 240 should be a bit easier since the radiator is smaller in the 240. Keep a good record on how you fab up the 240 mounting brackets, several people have asked how that can be done.

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Guest 305240

Ok, here is what I have so far concerning the 240 bumper mating to the 280 header panel. Please remember, I've removed all the rubber strips and guards off the bumper. I want the clean look. The only bumper brackets I had were somewhat shaped something like an L, only with 2 bends in it. So it looked something like this (J). I used a hammer and vice and made it look like an L. I bolted the short piece of the L into the hole left by the guard.

 

Now here's the thing. I'm not using the 240 lower valance. the brackets do not align up with the bolt holes left for the shock mounted bumper. I am thinking of welding a 1 1/2" x 6" to the bottom of the mounting bracket and then drilling holes in it. That way I can use the 280 shock holes. Something like this: ________________

|_______________|

|________|

 

The holes being in the bottom portion that was added on. Anyway, this is one theory. I also have another 240? bumper that has a little bit more mouting studs/ect already welded into it than the one I'm currently working with. I may end up using that one. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know. I'm open for anything right now.

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