Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 After waiting almost 5 months, my v8 mounts came in for my 1980 280zx from MSA. They cost $225 for the kit, and came with new stock engine mounts, and mounts that connect the Chevy to the stock mounts. They also came with tranny mounts and a new crossmember. I first tried to do the conversion last December, but I have the 280ZX with the power steering "gear box". This got in my way, so rather than fabricating my own mounts, I ordered them from MSA. I have to say that I'm somewhat impressed by the engine mounts. I was under the impression that the engine would have to be mounted closer to the front of the car, and mess up the weight distribution. I was very happy to see that this wasn't the case. The engine is a lot closer to the firewall than I expected (I can take measurements later if anyone is interested). The only drawback is that the engine sits a little high. I may end up having to put on a small hood scoop for the air cleaner. Hopefully I can do a clean job like V8 VPR's (http://www.dodgeviper.net/260z). There are still a few drawbacks however. For one, the steering box is limiting header/exhaust selection. I had the "rams horn" type exhaust manifolds, but they come out too far from the block and hit the steering box. I'm currently looking for some of the "long type" exhaust manifolds - I think they will fit. If not, I know of some sites referred to in earlier posts with custom headers. I'm not that worried about this problem yet. Another drawback is that the tranny mount and crossmember didn't work with my TH350 tranny (I was told that they would). I'm thinking maybe I have an older version of the tranny or something. We had to fabricate our own tranny mounts using metal from a local hardware store (let me know if you're interested in how we did this). I hope to later drop in a T-56. Does anyone know if it will be similar to putting one in a Z? Right now, the engine and tranny are in. I'm just waiting for the final hookups (radiator, pulleys, driveshaft, etc.). This shouldn't take tooo long I don't think, because my dad has A LOT of experience with sbc's. He used to build and race them. Its kind of fun because information is somewhat limited on 280ZX v8 swaps, & hopefully I can have info ready for others interested in doing the same swap or are just interested in the ZX swap in general. I'm trying to take a few pictures as I go along. ~Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 Hey Brian, I have done the zx swap. If you want any info email me. Also, let me know how close your engine is to your firewall. I made my own mounts using the zx's and welding them to the chevy's. Also, for the headers, I had to go and have the driver's side header custom cut right at the flange. A local muffler shop did this and installed the complete exhaust for around 700. I used Headman block hugger's. Also, I would be interested in how you mounted the power steering pump. I am having a problem getting it to line up better with the belts. It works, just tends to squeek when turning. And on the tranny mount, we just used the z's and welded it to the chevy's and it worked like a champ. Maybe some of this will help a little. Thanks for any info you can send this way. sean ------------------ "I feel the need, the need for speed!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 I haven't hooked up the power steering pump yet. What year is your ZX? Do you have the power steering box? I was going to use those headman headers but I was told that they would hit the engine mount. Are yours the blockhugger type that you can find in the summit catalogue? I guess your mounts are probably different. I'm on campus right now, so I can't measure the distance from the firewall, but I'll get it to you later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 I measured the distance between the very back of the engine, at the top hole for bolting the tranny, and the firewall. It was app. 2.5", maybe slightly less Probably not as good as a Z v8 swap, but better than I expected. I'm not sure of the distance on a Z with the JTR mounts. ~Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 Hey head, (lol, funny considering where that name came from) Anyway, congrats on the install!!!! Talk to ya later. ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 1, 2000 Share Posted December 1, 2000 Take a look at the JTR books suggestions on manifolds. They angle mill the mounting flange in order to draw it in closer to the block - would that work perhaps? Trouble with long tube headers is ground clearance - you WILL be scraping them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhaag Posted December 5, 2000 Share Posted December 5, 2000 Not sure if this long post will be of any use to anyone but here goes. Would I have done things differently if I knew then what I know now and IF the HybridZ forum existed back then? Yes. But that was then and this is now--this is the route I took, given that I didn't have a garage or many tools at that time either. About 6 years ago I approached Motorsport Auto about using my 79 280 ZX as the prototype for developing their V8 conversion kit for the second generation Zs. They agreed after we talked about it for some time so I dropped my car off in LA (I live in the Denver area), paid for the parts/engine/trans (they paid for the labor of putting it together) and took a plane home. A California speed shop actually did the work and after about three months I picked up the car. I was mostly satisfied with how it all worked out although there were several areas that left me rolling my eyes. The engine/trans is a 350 TPI/700R4 from an 89 Firebird Trans-Am GTA (245hp stock--the original engine had 130 hp which was the lowest, I think, of any Z/ZX). The computer was modified to make it a speed density system rather than a mass air flow system--I was too ignorant at the time to know that I wouldn't have made this change but a lot of street rodders do this. The engine sits low enough in the car that the only mod necessary to close the stock hood was to grind about 1/8" off of the corner of the alternator housing. To date the car remains virtually stock except for poly bushings and stainless brake lines. Since Datsun went towards the luxury performance market with the ZX in 1979, the car had air conditioning, power steering (recirculating ball), power brakes, electric windows, power mirrors, etc. etc. I happen to like the 79-83 ZX 'look' the best (but not necessarily all the options) of any of the different generations of Z cars [i know I'm in the minority on this ]. All the options, however, make access in the engine compartment a little (!) difficult. What I didn't like about the the conversion was how much of the wiring/hoses could have been hidden or routed in such a way as to free up a lot of space in the engine compartment. I was also not impressed by the fact that they used stock exhaust manifolds instead of fabricating headers which is what I thought they agreed to do. Ah well....what's done is done. I'm not ragging on MSA since I think both of us could have done a better job of putting on paper exactly what we were agreeing to. Live and learn! I REALLY like the car a lot and now that I've just finished my garage, bought a mig welder/air compressor/more tools, I feel able to dig into modifying the car to how I think it should have been done in the first place. I just purchased a Griffin radiator and twin puller fans--MSA used the stock radiator with a small puller fan which worked OK but not well. I pulled the battery out last night and cut out the old battery tray. I'm leaning towards Ross Corrigan's technique of mounting the battery (an Optima--no fumes or acid to leak out) in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat with a battery cut-off switch. I saw his car this summer and really liked what he had done--a great deal of thought went into it. I'm going to fabricate some kind of air intake from the area in front of the radiator. I have a million ideas but have just gotten to the point where I am ready to start doing something. Headers are high on my list (as are side exhausts) but I think they'll have to be custom made. Living in the metro Denver area and having a 79 model car mean I need to use cats to be legal. I've found a place that sells round cats and I have some ideas (we'll see how goothey are!). It's a labor of love like all of our cars. Some ideas will work and some won't. I often need to remind myself that enjoying the process is just as important as the eventual outcome. Whew, this was a long post! John Haag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 5, 2000 Share Posted December 5, 2000 Right now, it looks like I'm going to just have clearance problems with the air filter. MSA told me these 280zx mounts were redesigned, so mine may be different than yours. I'm still frustrated about having very limited header options without spending a lot of money. John, do you have the steering box in your 280zx? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhaag Posted December 5, 2000 Share Posted December 5, 2000 Head: My ZX has power steering (recirculating ball) so the steering box (not sure if this is the right term) is mounted to the subframe near where the steering shaft enters the engine compartment. The recirculating ball steering seems like a more complicated (space consuming) system than the rack & pinion. I suspect it would be a lot of work to convert to non-power rack & pinion steering (I'm not sure what options were offered) but I've always wondered about the room that might be freed up. Someone (Ross?) has looked into doing this on his ZX - I doubt the the car would be much harder to steer but it would be hard to tell without a side-by-side comparison. I know I've saved several posts on this topic from the IZCC list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted December 5, 2000 Share Posted December 5, 2000 Head & others: not sure what q's are still outstanding on this thread. Guess I've missed the development of this one. John, great to hear you've got some time and space to tinker with your Z:-) Even if you paid full for your labour 6 yrs ago it's been worth it for you having had your V8zx to drive the whole time:-) You know I've changed my setups a few times and it costs money but hey it's a hobby and still great bang/buck IMO:-) About headers....my car is a 79/80 with manual R&P, this can be swapped into any 280ZX taking the crossmember with it (xmember is exclusive to this rack, others measure VERY similar (w/in 1/4"!!) on rack mounts but not the same (ask me how I found out:confused . I bought cheap hedman headers (didn't know any better) with a thin flange. They'd have been fine if they had a thicker flange but they were still only 1.5" tubes which is small for anything but quite a mild V8 IMO. I also custom bent my drivers side header 'out' (away from block) ~2 " or so to clear the steering rod. I've had two exhaust systems now and will get a 3rd (3rd time lucky) this spring or earlier if time permits. A lot of dyno's and respected opinions have now convinced me I'll lose v. little to no power where I need by staying with shorty headers. I'll get 1-3/4's (from www.rewarderheader.com or similar) most likely, they'll customize them somewhat at no extra cost and at ~$300US coated that's v. fair IMO. You'll hear many opinions on what size headers/configuration are good for what combo which I won't get into. BUT just cause someone is pushing 400rwhp thru 1-5/8's headers doesn't mean it's optimal/appropriate, they may put 440rwhp thru 1-3/4's and gain power right across the board and gain 500rpm or more in power range for ie. On steering rack's, if for some reason you HAVE to have a power rack I'm sure ways around the headers can be figured out. But I don't find the steering effort excessive, aluminum heads and relocating the battery made a big difference to the effort. Less now than stock I"m sure (weighs less/better balance better be true!). Drive some manual cars first to see if you can enjoy that if thinking of changing. It's strictly a preference IMO and not a strength issue at all (can't be, I was barely walking/standing up after a bone marrow transplant and wheeling the monster around for a daily 'stomp'!). many autox champs out their in manual cars (I hear that occasionally, "But I'm going to be autox champ so I need power steering"), so I dont' buy into that, preference again IMO. Keep in mind I don't have ANY options on my car except power windows I added and rear wiper (must've been custom order or something?), so no AC/cruise accessories up front etc. I have some header pics from either side aiming down b/t fender and header if of interest. I'd be game for arranging a group 'header' buy or participating at least. Any q's feel free, it's been a daily driver for some 5yrs or so now and sees autox & roadrace duty so nothing much it hasn't been exposed to. HTH ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 5, 2000 Share Posted December 5, 2000 I was thinking about changing out to manual steering to eliminate the steering box so that I would have more header options. I'm looking to have app. 430 HP. Should I go ahead and do the steering swap so that I can have more header room? Ross, I'd be interested in seeing your pics. ~Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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