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I have a huge problem with ignition!!!!


Guest Kroi300zx

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Guest Kroi300zx

I have an 85' z31, detonated the 5speed. bought a 88' z31 turbo body. Bought new 5speed and put motor and new tranny in the 88' turbo car. Problem-the cars wiring is setup for a turbo and an automatic and I'm putting a 5speed and an n/a engine.....woohoo. I Have everything working but for some reason I'm not getting an fire to my coil at all or my ignition module, why I do not know. I have power to the coil, but no spark. I put a straight 12v source to the module because power isn't going to it. I know, very bad to run 12v source but I only did it for a little bit. when I did that I still didn't get spark from the coil and I've spent days trying to figure out why not, and I just hooked up and msd 6-al box and I couldn't get power from the box to the coil itself and this is extremely pissing me off. And yes I do have everything wired up right. somebody help so I can have somthing to drive.

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Guest RENN TURTON

Kroi, have you by pass the switch wires(2) going to the switch for the auto trans? When I did my 83zxt auto to manual the two wires were green and black.

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Guest Kroi300zx

I already did that, I can turn the car over. Everthing works but the digital gauge cluster does not light up, why I don't know. Fuel pump works, everything else comes on, the motor turns over when I turn the key but for some reason when that key is on I can turn that motor over like a champ. I have power going to the coil but not to the module, why I don't know and I can't get fire out of the coil, why I don't know that either.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Kroi300zx

I've also removed my egr valve and some silenoid vacuum thing that mounts right next to the coil and ignition module, would that have anything to do with anything?

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  • 4 weeks later...
I have an 85' z31, detonated the 5speed.

 

and people wonder why i hate borg warner so much

 

 

as for the ignition i think the system is actually fired using the ground wire. i'm pretty sure that's how its setup on my maxima at least, so there is a constant 12v source to the coil. are there any codes from the ecu? it could be that its not getting the right signal from the cam angle sensor (located in the distributor). you might put piston 1 at top dead center of the compression stroke, mark the position of the rotor in the distributor, pull the distributor out, put the key in the on position, then spin the distributor gear and listen for the injectors to fire. if they don't it would most likely be something with the dist/cas. if they do fire then it would most likely be something with the wires somewhere.

 

have you tried using the wiring harness from the n/a z? that might be something to try as well just to make sure there aren't some sort of wiring differences between the turbo and n/a. if you still can find the problem you may search or ask the guys at http://www.z31.com.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Jason84NA-T
and people wonder why i hate borg warner so much

 

Actually, all manual Z31 NA cars had the Nissan FS5W71C. For some reason I am exactly the opposite. I had very good luck on the T5 running 12 second passes all day, I only blew one of them up in the 4 years they were in my 84 turbo converted car (FS5R30A now). Yet I've never had a FS5W71C that shifted correctly, and know more than a few people whom have had outright failures.

 

As for the 88T, keep in mind the 87-89T uses a titania type (resistance-based) oxygen sensor and the wiring harness is wired for it. Did you use the NA wiring harness? All other wiring is pretty much the same, save for little things like the NA harness missing the speed limiter wire. You can always compare the wiring in the factory service manuals, both of which are located on http://www.carfiche.com for free.

 

I suspect power transistor or crank angle sensor. If you can, swap them out.

 

edit: also, a disconnected CHTS could cause it....

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Guest Jason84NA-T
how much power were you running through the n/a tranny? it seems most people have better luck with those than the b/w t5 tranny.

 

Failures at various power levels have been reported. Mine was grinding so badly when I got my 84NA car (edit: the car has 62K miles and was well cared for BTW) that I replaced it with a T5. I have one friend with a mostly stock turbo car who is on his 3rd one, and yes he shifts it nicely. Another friend on his second one from a 240SX (just swap the front section of the case). And many other non-local people have reported gearset failures over the years. Here is one example:

 

http://z31.com/board/read.php3?id=684092&srf=nein

 

The big problem with the T5's is snapping the input shaft; I believe this has a lot to do with what type of clutch you run as well as how you drive. I'm not claiming the T5 is strong by any means, just that the failure rate in comparison might not be as high as you might expect.

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Ahh yeah, the 240SX tranny. I forgot that those used the same setup as the n/a Z31's. Yeah, I dislike that tranny. I'd personally only stick with the late Z31, Z32, Pathfinder, etc. tranny. After having as much trouble with borg warner as I've had I'll never buy anything from them again, or at least try not to buy any of their stuff knowingly.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Kroi300zx

I'm using the 85' engine, wiring harness for the engine, the 85 ecu, and the 85' oxygen sensor. I have changed the crankshaft sensor. It's a brand new coil and it has a constant hot lead and the ecu uses a ground wire to arc the coil and ignite the spark plug and wire. I have arced it successfully and oh my god that **** hurts and it threw me back pretty hard. Oh and I also hooked an accel 300+ ignition box so that had a lot to do with it. I can ground out the signal wire on the 300+ and arc the coil and hear it making contact in the distributor. I think I have to use the 88' n/a ecu to make use of the digital gauges, they come on but blow a fuse after 3 seconds. I think it's a bad module for the digital setup. Just the other day, I took the two wires from the 300+ box and hooked them up to the crankshaft sensor wires many different ways and the engine cranked up twice, ran for two to three seconds, smoked like hell and then shut off. So I think it might be bad gas now. I also unhooked the egr valve and silenoid and the silenoid over by the coil and ignitoin module. With that accel 300+ ignition box, can I get rid of the ignition module, because I don't have it hooked up anymore?

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i wonder if that ignition box isn't what is causing the trouble. i have a msd 6al for my maxima but haven't installed it yet mostly because i also have to install a tach adapter. the tach adapter isn't only for the tach, but also fixes the non-run problem a lot of imports have when hooking up those ignition boxes. i think they basically explain the problem as multiple units are getting the same trigger from the same wire (i'm getting a tired and can't explain it all that well).

 

basically, when i hooked up the 6al my maxima wouldn't run. i pulled the distributor spun it and all of the plugs sparked as they should, but the moment i try starting the car it wouldn't work. i took the msd box off, cranked the engine over, and it started right up.

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Guest Kroi300zx

I don't think that the ignition box is the problem, because when I have the factory module hooked up, it still won't crank. The ecu is supposed to put out a ground signal which causes the ignition box to arc the coil and its not. So even when I have the module hooked up it still doesn't crank. I'm starting to believe that my ecu is bad, but I took it all out of one car and nothing seems to want to work no matter what I do.

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Guest Kroi300zx

Also, my tach reads a signal off of one wire coming from the negative side of the coil. That wire also goes to the tach, so I don't know the actual reason for a tach adapter.

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