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Help looking for ignitor power transistor number


getZ

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I was wondering if anybody had an ignitor (power transistor) that had a part number that could be read. Mine is from an 81 turbo motor and is completely dead.

 

I tested it by measuring the resistance across the base and collector and reversed the connection. They both almost 0 resistance.

 

A similar power transistor measured almost a short in one direction and about 2k Ohms in the opposite direction which is what I expected.

 

I tried putting what I thought was a similar tranistor in its place which turned out to be a very bad idea. I went out to grab a bite and it overheated and blew up my new blaster II coil....... oil everywhere. Okay that was a stupid thing to do.

 

I'll attempt another transistor replacement if anybody has a part number they can read off their ignitor transistor. The only reason I attempt it is because the transistor may only be 5 bucks versus a 100 bucks for a whole new ignitor.

 

This time I got the fire extinguisher standing by......

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well I managed to capture the output signal of the computer to the ignitor. Sorry if I confused anybody last time I posted about this. I thought it was a steady dc voltage. It is a series of pulses and pretty low voltage as well. The attached picture shows only .8volt pulses. I tried another cpu, it was about the same.

 

In technical terms the frequency of the pulse is the errr.. errr.. errrr...errr of the sound of the engine turning over. Every "errrr..." is one pulse.

 

By the way the ignitor and the output of the cpu have to be working correctly if you want to use an MSD with stock style triggering. What the igntor does is pull the "white" wire of the msd to ground at every pulse. Grounding the white manually will give you a nice arc out of the coil.

DSCN0534_thumb.jpg

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okay, I'm getting another ignitor and will post the part number when I get it. I also got an 82 distributor to try out, but it looks like a direct swap with the crank sensor.

 

If I'm right this still won't change the ecu triggering, but I should be able to fool the ecu into thinking the engine is running and ouput the same signal to the ignitor. Speeding the distributor faster should increase the pulse frequency which is nice to know but probably a useless piece of information.

 

By the way if you ever want to test you crank sensor, REMOVE the coil to distributor wire. Unbolt the sensor, but keep it plugged in. Then turn the ignition to on (not start) . Next run the tip of a screwdver past each of the three sensors (to test each sensor within the crank sensor). Initially the fuel pump will go on for about five seconds and then shut off. Now quickly brush the tip of the screwdriver (any magnetic metal will work) past each sensor. If all the sensors are working the fuel pump turns back on for another five seconds. The ecu thinks the engine is running. The same should apply to the 82 and 83 distributor (except all should have to do is spin it by hand), of course while it is out of the engine. Really simple to do and eliminate stuff you can't see when trouble shooting.

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  • 3 weeks later...

HBO,

 

Sorry so late getting back. I'm out of the country on business. No luck on the part number. I did find a cheaper one through rock auto that was half that price:

 

https://www.rockauto.com/applet3.html

 

Hope their website works for you. I had to go download a Javascript from somewhere to get there site to work, the download was free but it was a hassle trying to figure out why it wasn't working.

 

The transistor on the replacement part I got had a number on it but it didn't seem like a part number I could cross reference. I think it was something 3c ??????????

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