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autometer senders


datsun327

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What engine/tranny are you using? The oil and trans temp are usually located in the applicable pan (you will need to install a bung). If you're running FI, the fuel pressure sender can be adapted to the inlet fuel rail port ( I brazed another fitting into my line so I had the gauge and option of testing/bleeding from the other port). If you're using an external FPR in the return line you can come off the spare fitting on it. Water temp can come off the head (there's a NPT plug in either head typically for this) or thermostat housing. Oil pressure is found in the rear galley near the distributor to the driver's side (a small NPT plug). There will be an oil pressure switch here to kill the fuel pump relay if oil pressure drops for any reason (assuming you're going FI and electric HP pump). Not sure about the LS1 for oil pressure sender but I'll look at one in my garage and post it.

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im not running efi. im running a carter carb/ with a holley blue pump. i was planning to run the fuel pressure send from the FPR. is there any way to run oil/tranny temp from any other place. i was told that if i run a sender in line on the tranny/oil coolers it could give me a reading. all i would need to do is use on of these adapors from jegs.

 

jegs part # 555-15270

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=164258&prmenbr=361

 

and i have 1 npt fitting of each of my heads. if i used on can i just plug the other on with a npt plug?

 

im new to this please bare with me. could u explain that kill switch idea to me again im not following u. would it be the same if i was to put a kill switch in line to my fuel pump wiring?

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Running your senders in the lines is not as accurate as straight from the main source (the pan). You could certainly try it though. With a carb, you are only running 4-6 psi. You can mount the sender in the FPR or off a Tee somewhere between the pump, carb and FPR. If it's an electrical sender then you can mount the gauge inside the car. If it's mechanical then the gauge needs to remain under the hood or mounted outside visable through the windshield unless you are using a fluid isolator. NEVER run a fuel line inside the passenger compartment for ANY reason. Burning to death would be a grisly way to die. Regarding the kill switch, on most vehicles today there is an oil pressure switch the must sense oil pressure to close the circuit (as you attempt to start the car and then while it is running). It typically provides 12V to a fuel pump relay. This relay provides the 12V to the electric fuel pump. If the oil pressure drops (bad oil pump, low oil level, rollover accident, etc.) the switch opens up and kills the 12V to the fuel pump relay. The pump stops pumping fuel to prevent engine damage or fuel spraying (as in an accident). If you are running a mechanical fuel pump then the switch means nothing to your application.

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Regarding the kill switch, on most vehicles today there is an oil pressure switch the must sense oil pressure to close the circuit (as you attempt to start the car and then while it is running). It typically provides 12V to a fuel pump relay. This relay provides the 12V to the electric fuel pump. If the oil pressure drops (bad oil pump, low oil level, rollover accident, etc.) the switch opens up and kills the 12V to the fuel pump relay. The pump stops pumping fuel to prevent engine damage or fuel spraying (as in an accident). If you are running a mechanical fuel pump then the switch means nothing to your application.

 

where could i get this relay from. thanks for making it idoit proof so i could understand it. is there any wiring diragraph that i could look at. so when i wire it up i can double check my work? also where can i get the relay for the fuel pump. this is new to my ears. i didnt know that i had to have a relay to the fuel pump. thanks again, youve been a major help

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