pjo046 Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Hi! A friend of mine is trying to install a 280ZXT harness in his 240Z with 280ZXT engine swap. He has some troubles figuring things out, and we can't seem to find the answer by looking at the guide through sticky here at hybridz. The harness he has was bought from a person in the USA, that had already done the swap, but now didn't need the harness because he upgraded to standalone. So at least one of the plugs are modified.(see picture) Can anyone tell us where these are going and what they are for? How to connect them etc? Pictures would be nice as well! 1: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4529&cat=530&page=1 2: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4528&cat=530&page=1 3: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4527&cat=530&page=1 4: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4526&cat=530&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Pictures 1 and 2: Cant really say for sure as the picture isn't all that great. It would help alot to know where abouts on the harness those plugs are. Picture #3 The two prong connector near the ecu is NOT USED even the Nissan service manual will say that. Picture #4 Those two plugs are for the AAC and EGR solenoids. They are not nessesary to make the engine run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 I'll try to make him take some better photos, and also describe excactly from off where on the harness they are coming. As for AAC and EGR, what is that short for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 AAC (don't recall the actual name) but it is for the ecu to control the idle. Perhaps useful if you have air conditioning or something that will load down the engine, but setting the idle with the screw on the throttle shaft does the trick just fine. EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) allows the ecu to control how and when the egr valve opens. This is purely for emission control and most people simply ditch the whole system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 15, 2005 Author Share Posted October 15, 2005 Ok, I have taken some new pictures. I have a 280ZXT harness lying around myself, so took pictures of the two connectors that are shown on one of the pictures you couldn't identify. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4534&cat=530&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4533&cat=530&page=1 They are located on the harness, just before it exits from the interiorside through the firewall to the engine bay. As for the other picture you are unsure of, the one with the connection hanging down from only one intact wire, I assume must be from the FI-loom as described here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620 (Picture 18 from the top down) On a intact unmodified 280ZXT harness, it would look like this: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4535&cat=530&page=1 I haven't gotten an answer from him about that, but I am pretty sure it has to be that one. But anyways, if you look at the walk through pictures here on hybridz(The link I posted some lines above here), you will see when you compare the connections from just before the harness exits the firewall aren't the same as the ones I have shown on my pictures. The connections I have pictures of both have 8 pins, but the connections on the walk-through has 6 pins. Any idea as to what causes this? Is it merely because the pictures on the walk through is from a 81 harness and my and my friends harnesses are from 82 or 83 280ZXT's`? Also, since these connections are in fact different, does anybody know how to hook them up properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Ok, now I know the plugs that you are talking about.. They are both rectangular but one of them has rounded off corners on two sides. First of all the one square corners on all four sides is for the fuel pump modulator. It messes with the fuel pump ground to slow down the fuel pump under low load conditions. Mostly to make it run quieter during idling. Personally I wouldn't bother with it. It makes wiring up the the fuel pump more complicated and I don't find the extra noise of the fuel pump annoying at all. Just leave it unplugged. Second that plug has been explained before in Drax's sticky post about turbo swapping. Here is a quote.. "The wires are as follows: Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive Plug 2=Y start signal (+) GL ground for inhibitor switch YW speed sensor (not necessary) Y A/C signal (+) YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) B fuel pump ground if using modulator Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator W not used Y not used BW ignition signal (+) " The one that you are looking at is plug #2. There are only two wires you need to grab from that plug: Y start signal (just run to the start terminal at the ignition switch) YW coil ignitior (goes to the transistor box on the coil mount) Here is the confusing part, there are two Y and YW wires on that plug. If you hold the plug so that the flat part (the one with square corners) is facing down, then you would want the two wires in the middle of the top row (the row that has the rounded corners) If you are still unsure if you have the right wires you can use a ohm meter to confirm that the the wires conduct to pins 5 and 9 at the ecu plug. If you look closely at the ecu plugs you will see that the pins are numbered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 16, 2005 Author Share Posted October 16, 2005 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 16, 2005 Author Share Posted October 16, 2005 Just one thing though. You say one only needs: Y start signal (just run to the start terminal at the ignition switch) YW coil ignitior (goes to the transistor box on the coil mount) But don't you need a ground signal as well? At least you need that on the 81 harness as described by bumblezee. A totally different question: Do you need a head with a head-temp sensor to make this work? Because I don't think my friend has a P90 head on his engine. Will the engine run fine although the head-temp is unconnected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 But don't you need a ground signal as well? At least you need that on the 81 harness as described by bumblezee. A totally different question: Do you need a head with a head-temp sensor to make this work? Because I don't think my friend has a P90 head on his engine. Will the engine run fine although the head-temp is unconnected? I had to go back and read bumblezee's post to see what you are talking about. Of course it all came back to me if you read post #4 on that thread you will see that I commented on several things that didn't make sense to me. The 6 pin connector and the ground wire one of them. I know that the coil trigger on a z31 had a dedicated ground wire on the coil ignitor but the 280zxt ignitor only has two pins (one to pin #5 of the ecu, and the other to switched ignition source) I'm sure that is has to be grounded but I guess it gets its ground simply from being bolted to the chassis. Where the wire that bumblezee is taking about goes, I have no idea as I don't have a diagram of a 81 turbo. In fact I think the wiring diagram that bumblezee posted is for a 1982 model (which is the same as a 83) Obviously they are different from a 81 though. My engine started up just fine without a special ground but there is nothing to stop you from running a wire from the ignitor mount directly to the negative battery terminal if it helps you to sleep at night. As for the head temp thing, if you leave that disconnected it will not run properly. I don't know alot on this subject but I guess you can look into two possibilities. #1. The head temp sensor does not screw into the water jacket as many people would assume. It simply measures the temp of the head itself. So perhaps you could get a head temp sensor and find a way of attaching it to the head. Carefully drill and tap a hole? or maybe just get or make a aluminum nut with the same threads as the sensor. Then weld the nut to the side of the head. #2 I seem to remember reading that the ohm values of the head temp sensor are the same as the water temp sensor on the thermostat housing, so perhaps you can use that? You had better confirm that the values are the same before you do that because I'm not sure if what I read was true or not. Do a search, maybe there is a post on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 16, 2005 Author Share Posted October 16, 2005 Hmmm. I have to check into that for sure then! But it is at least fine to run without a knock sensor hooked up right? You see, he has a N/A 2.8 that he has converted to turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 The knock sensor won't matter at all. All it does is retard the timing if it hears knock. You just have to make sure you have good tuning. Guys that use the z31 ecu don't run the knock sensor anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 22, 2005 Author Share Posted October 22, 2005 Ok! Now he has most of the wiring sorted out, except of this: From the ignitor there is a cut of wire that has the color Y/W. Where does this go? On the coil minus/side of the ignitor there is a blue wire. Where does this go? On the ignitor there is a black wire. Where does this go? On the coil pluss/side of the ignitor there is a black wire. Where does this go? Which wire is going to the tach? The car he is installing this in is a 260Z If he can get these wires sorted out, he is all set. He hasn't been able to take any pictures of the wires yet... Hope some of you can give him a clue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Since I first did my L28et swap I have upgraded to the z31 ecu and also swapped my original coil for a 87 Pathfinder coil/trigger. The newer style ignition triggers are compatable but are wired up slighty different. I will try to answer your questions but I have to warn you I am going strictly from memory as I haven't looked at a L28et trigger in a while. I think I already answered your YW wire. (pin #5 of the ecu) The negative and positive coil wires should have been attatched to the trigger, unless you removed it. I believe there is also a blue wire on the coil negative, you can use that to run your tach. If you can find the negative wire from your original coil you can just hook it up to the new coil negative and your tach should work. The black wire (I believe with a white stripe?) goes to the trigger from a switched ignition source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 No problem, you will be getting my bill in the mail shortly.. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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