Jump to content
HybridZ

Newbe Megasquirt Questions


trwebb26

Recommended Posts

Ok... I have a 78' 280z with a running engine. There will be a rebuilt 83' ZXT motor going in the car next year. I want to add megasquirt to my existing 280z and get the bugs worked out before I drop in the fresh motor with a new T3/T4. I think this makes sense because I will be using the intake manifold off of my 280z on the new motor.

 

I've read every megasquirt forum entry there is on this webpage - and a lot of other stuff. I'm not sure I understand it all, yet.

 

I want to buy the Megasquirt v3 for these reasons (which may or not be correct):

- it has driver for coil so I won't need an HEI module

- it has fidle output (even though I'm not sure if I need it)

- it supports Low Impedence injectors so I don't need the silly flyback resistor board.

- It comes with a built in 3.0 bar MAP sensor. That should handle all the boost I'll ever need.

- ???

Is this a correct decision?

 

I also don't think that I need the MSII daugherboard because I will get more use out of the MS&SE that comes standard on the V.3 board. Correct?

 

I have an 83 dizzy (distributor I assume?) with the required CAS. I've hear some ramblings about going distributorless? I know a lot of people run MSD6a units. Money really is no object - I'm really looking for "the ultimate setup" for reliability, tunability, and engine compartment neatness. Should I just use the distributor I've got - or should I look for something more? If you had an open checkbook to make a megasquirt ignition - what would you get?

 

I'm a big fan of a tidy install. I've read that the relay/fuse block isn't that great. I'm definately capable of the wiring. Everybody please chime in here.

 

I think that is enough for now. Thanks to everybody in advance for all the help! I'm looking forward to megasquirt!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in the progress of setting up a v3 board so I'll chime in.

 

- it has driver for coil so I won't need an HEI module

Yes it has a coil driver (VB921 dumb ignitor), but I couldn't get it to work. I could barely get a spark out of it. My dad had a few HEI modules laying around, so I went with the GM HEI setup and got a HUGE spark.

 

- it has fidle output (even though I'm not sure if I need it)

Not sure why you would need the FIDLE, you could just use the air regulator you have now. Wire it to the fuel pump or something that's on while the car is running.

 

- it supports Low Impedence injectors so I don't need the silly flyback resistor board.

Correct

 

- It comes with a built in 3.0 bar MAP sensor. That should handle all the boost I'll ever need.

It comes with a 2.5bar MAP sensor, so you can run a total of 22psi. 14.7 is atmospheric plus 22 = 36.7psi or about 2.5bar. You can run bigger MAPs like a GM 4bar, but I don't know exactly what's involved.

 

I also don't think that I need the MSII daugherboard because I will get more use out of the MS&SE that comes standard on the V.3 board. Correct?

IMO I wouldn't get a MSII. With MSII you can only run the MSII code like you said. MSnS-extra has a lot more features like traction control, nitrous control, water injection, shift lights, etc.

 

The 83 dizzy will work fine, I couldn't get my 81 CAS to work, so I went with a 76 VR distributor. I'm not sure about the ignition, but with MSnS-E there's a lot of options, like crank VR sensor, EDIS from a late model Ford which I think allows you to run a coil on plug setup.

 

I made my own wiring harness and I love it, came out very tidy. It was kind of hard finding all the colors for wires, but between http://www.mcmaster.com and some local places I came up with enough. For the relays I bought 2 generic ones with the blocks to plug them into and wired it all up myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For any turbo megasquirt car I would recommend using MSnS_Extra

 

The only time I would go MSII processor(implies MSII code) is for a non-turbo tuned port injection chevy engine. Then the MSII has the ability to control the IAC and you don't need the extra turbo/nitrous functions of the MSnS_Extra code.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wanna do my conversion this winter, and I'm once again bringing up the age old question:

 

Should I do Tony's plate mod, or go with a different distributor? Also, when you say "it supports Low Impedence injectors so I don't need the silly flyback resistor board.", what is a silly flyback resistor board? is that just the relay board?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at Moby's install guide... Says the sensors i need are as follows:

 

coolant temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, oxygen sensor, fuel pump, injector wiring, TPS, MAP sensor, etc.

 

I know where my fuel pump, injector wiring, TPS, O2 sensor are. I think cooland is back on the spark plug side, right? as for the Air temp where is it or what part do i get/where should i put it. the map sensor is just a vaccuum line to the ms box, and i'm using the same TPS as you are, Moby, Pallnet sent me a 240sx throttle body and it came with its tps, however, it doesn't make a difference whether my tps is plugged in or not right now. When you say etc... lol what other sensors, if any, are there?

 

 

And could you please explain PWM to me?

 

sorry if i'm being a pita, don't mean to have answers fed to me, so if thats what it seems like just say **** off and tell me where else to find it? I've been going through the yahoo group but it only seems to stress me out because i don't know what i'm doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So it looks like I'll be buying a MS w/ version 3 hardware and an upgraded 3.0 bar map sensor. I'll be using the MSnSE software (no MSII daughterboard).

 

I'm really curious about what to do about the ignition system. Will I need the HEI? What other parts would you get if you had an open checkbook? (MSD, try to run EDIS, etc?)

 

Thanks for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it was me I would just run an MSD 6A with the MSnS. But EDIS would be neat. I just wouldn't be up for spending the time to work the bugs out of the install for EDIS.

 

Your going to run a wideband controller and EGT if money is no option. Go ahead and set up water injection using MSnS to control. That will support you high boost expectations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great!!! Thanks for the info. I'm all set to buy my megasquirt from RS-Autosport:

http://www.rs-autosport.com/#mshardware

I do have a couple more questions before I take the plunge:

1) Their website says that units come with a 3.0 bar map sensor standard (from RS-Autosport). Anybody know why this is different than the ones from DIYAutotune.com that come with a 2.5 bar sensor standard (they are both from B&G)?

2) I'm going to go ahead and get the wire. I figure 360' of labeled wire at the correct guage is worth the $50.

3) I'm planning on buying the IAT and CTS sensors off of the website. Are they reasonably priced ($20 a piece)?

4) Do I need the tach input to be "Hall/Opto" or "VR"??? That part is very confusing to me.

5) Is there a recommendation for a wideband O2 system?

6) The list of sensors:

- 83' Turbo ZXT Dizzy w/ built in CAS

- IAT w/ plug

- CTS w/ plug

- 240SX TB w/ TPS

- Wideband O2 (Heated O2 sensor)

- New plugs for stock injectors (bosch)

- A handfull of relays and fuses

Am I missing anything?

7) Is there a FIdle solonoid on the Z??? I can't find anything on how to hook this up in the old posts.

 

Do I have it all covered? Thanks again for all of the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1) Their website says that units come with a 3.0 bar map sensor standard (from RS-Autosport). Anybody know why this is different than the ones from DIYAutotune.com that come with a 2.5 bar sensor standard (they are both from B&G)?

 

The standard B&G sensor is 2.5, but I think there is a very similiar MAP that is 3, I guess they supply those with their systems.

 

 

3) I'm planning on buying the IAT and CTS sensors off of the website. Are they reasonably priced ($20 a piece)?

You could probably get the IAT cheaper with the wire from a junkyard.

You can use your stock water temperature sensor or cylinder head temperature sensor and just adjust the ranges with easytherm as in moby's sticky.

 

4) Do I need the tach input to be "Hall/Opto" or "VR"??? That part is very confusing to me.

You'll want optical, I would think. I would imagine their kits have both installed, but you pick which is jumpered by default. If you do go with a VR, you'll have to unsolder a few things.

 

7) Is there a FIdle solonoid on the Z??? I can't find anything on how to hook this up in the old posts.

 

Use your stock air regulator if you want idle control, it's in moby's sticky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fidle is connected the auxilary air regulator on top of the intake manifold, it might require a relay though, since it is a heating element, then again, it might not, I haven't done it.

 

What sucks is by now, most of these are out of spec or not functional anymore.

 

People seem to like Techedge WBO2, you don't even need one with datalogging since you can do that with MS, which is a lot cheaper.

 

If you use all of the stock EFI harness, you shouldn't need relays and fuses, except for the fuel pump I think. You don't even need a flyback board, since the 280z has injector resistors already.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...