Jump to content
HybridZ

W/C T-5 trans mounting question


BWRex

Recommended Posts

Here are the pictures of my crossmember setup.

 

crossmember1.jpg

 

crossmember2.jpg

I used the stock Datsun crossmember, slotted the center hole in it so I could move the mount left or right as I needed and also slotted the holes in the mount to match up with the flange on the transmission.

 

I've trimmed up the mounts since I took the pictures but you'll get the idea.

To make the hangers I cut some 3X3 1/8" thick tubing to make a u-bracket which I then welded to some 1/4" plate. Each hanger is bolted to a plate through the tunnel wall to add extra bracing. I'm contemplating welding the external plate to the tunnel wall but wonder if it would add much more strength. I used washers as spacers on the bolts that hold the crossmember to the hangers to eliminate front to rear movement.

 

Let me know what you think.

 

I should really take some more pictures to show the exhaust pipe clearance this setup provides.

 

Wheelman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks real good,almost 'stock'.did you have to modify the original crossmember other than the slotting?Also,does the T-5 normally sit off to the passenger side?Any mods to the clutch linkage?If possible,could you give me a quick rundown on your parts list,master cyl.,slave cyl.,fittings?My 71 Z came with an auto trans.:(JTR doesent really specify.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BWRex,

I used a stock Camaro slave and a Wilwood 3/4" master. I followed the JTR method to connect the hose to the slave and the Wilwood came with a double flare fitting that was compatible with 3/16" brake line. I had a local hydraulic supply store make me up a line, cost about $20.00. If I had it to do over again I'd use a 7/8" master, the 3/4" gives a very long pedal travel and I was forced to cut the stop from the floor.

 

The only mods to the crossmember were slotting the hole on the top where the mount connects and opening up the hole below that so I could get a wrench on the nut.

No mods to the clutch linkage.

 

Strotter,

Even if I had tried to use the JTR crossmember I would have had to remove the ears from the tunnel, either that or bend them over to clear the side of the tranny.

I did have to clearance the area close to the slave cylinder mount to make room for the clutch fork as you state.

 

Wheelman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info fellas,I'm going to go with wheelman's set up since it looks like a stock setup,not to mention a lot stronger in terms of the mounting of the crossmember versus the JTR style,IMO.A little more work,but a lot nicer,I think.Also it looks like you can easily squeeze dual 2 1/2" exaust if not 3" if you wanted to,and still be above the framerails.If you've got the time Wheelman,snap a couple photos,I'd like to see the setup.You're using the stock clutch pedal assembly I would assume?Other than the bigger master,any mods to that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...