Jackhammer Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 I would like some assistance from you guys. If you please. This engine is for sale locally. Below is the description cut and pasted from the ad. Is this a suitable candidate for the SBC conversion I will be doing in the next 2 months. Is this a good, not so good or exceptional price for what is being described? I have not contacted them as yet ...I wanted some opinions first. I appreciate the input. Jack 350 4 bolt main block steel crank lightweight balanced rods [new] 200,000 psi rod bolts speed pro 30 over pistons 10 to 1 new 318*510 lift hyd grind cam brass freeze plugs new 487x heads rebuilt fresh 202 valves pocket ported double roller chain gasket kit $750.00 Serious inquiries only. No trades No Bull$hit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 those seem to be all quality parts. nothing outrageous. the $750 is probably less than what the parts cost. is it a long block or a collection of parts ? if the stuff is new, this is a pretty good deal. is the block already bored for the pistons ? how are the mains, are they true ? is the crank straight ? does it need to be turned ? as long as everything is new ( with exception of the block ), you would have what sounds like a good foundation for building an engine. here's a list of current chevy engines on san fransisco bay area craigslist. http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/search?areaID=1&subAreaID=0&query=chevy+engine&catAbbreviation=pts&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 I thinks that's a mistake on the cam specs. The biggest problem buying an engine like that is knowing if it is legit or not. How are you going to tell if the engine was balanced and has forged pistons without tearing it down yourself. Was it recently rebuilt? Can you see it run? Is it a GM 1038 forged, after market cast steel or aftermarket forged? The only way I would take a chance on something like that is by talking to the guy and getting a feel for what he is like and what he knows about building engines. If you don't know enough about engines or don't have a buddy you can bring along I wouldn't take the chance. It may not be as good a deal as it seems. That's just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 That would be a pretty huge cam... with potentially poor flowing factory cast heads = that engine could be a real slug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackhammer Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 Thanks guys. This is exactly the type feedback I was looking for. I know enough to be dangerous and I was having the same concerns and questions. I needed some additional validation. Too much is at stake for me to start half stepping on one of the key components on this project. The cam is a big concern. The legitimacy to what is being offered is another. I believe I will stick to my original plan of getting the engine from a GM Powertrain Dealer or a reputable re-builder. I will at least have a warranty and the piece of mind I am getting what I am paying for and also better able to choose the specs suited to the cars intended purpose. That is worth more than the prospect of saving a few hundred bucks and "MAYBE" getting a diamond in the rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Well, it sounds like you've already made up your mind. BUT, if he can show you that the stuff in the engine is legit with receipts for cam, machine work etc. and maybe you could hear it run, then I would probably tell you to take it. There are honest people around (especially here in Texas ) you just have to sniff out the turds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Oh, and if he's put those supposedly lighter rods in the engine he should have had it balanced IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackhammer Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 Well, it sounds like you've already made up your mind. BUT, if he can show you that the stuff in the engine is legit with receipts for cam, machine work etc. and maybe you could hear it run, then I would probably tell you to take it. There are honest people around (especially here in Texas ) you just have to sniff out the turds. I appreciate your input. I am in Houston and we have a few floatin' around and your insight can help to flush 'em. My concern is that cam. Even if everything else checks out. This will be used as a streeter and I think it might be to lumpy for that. What are your thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 A new cam is plus or minus $100, while you've got the engine out you could pull the cam and run the #'s on it and go from there. With that said, don't take it that I'm all for you buying this engine. Especially in Houston, I would think you could find a billion different 350's for that price with similar stories and I'm sure a better deal is out there. You might check your local machine shops and see what they have laying around that people haven't ever paid for. Also, for the amount that you are thinking, have you considered a fuel injected engine out of some sort of donor car (Caprice, Camaro, etc.)? IMO fuel injection and streetability go hand in hand, plus with the donor car you can get a good feel for the engine and even the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.