What Type paint to use??

[Guest V8Z]

Hi, I want to know what type of paint basecoat/clearcoat is? Like Dupont Chromacolor, PPG Deltron, or Omni base. Is it a Urethane,Acrylic enamel, acrylic lacquer, or what. Thanks for any help.

[Guest tigermountainracing]

Every paint that is a 2 stage paint I have come across is Urethane base. Lacquer and enamels are a single phase paint. In other words, you mix the hardner right in with the paint and you spray it once and it is done. Lacquer is still used by some show car guys because they feel they can wet sand and polish for a better finish than you can with a 2 stage paint. Lacquer though you can't get in CA with EPA regs. At least in most parts of CA. Enamels are still very popular for single phase but durability is not as good as it is with a 2 stage paint. Eurethane base paints are nice especially with newer bumpers and plastics because they naturally flex. Enamel is more brittle and more prone to chipping and scratching. I use mostly House of Kolor paints. If I need a very custom color, I either mix it myself or I use Dupont. That is just what I like. I hope this helps. Oh, one more thing, evryone has a different opinion on paint so be prepared for numerous opinions on the subject. Mine is just one of many.

 

Gary

Miller's Rod and Cycle

[AK-Z]

So are toners universal (tinting for clear)? Can they be used with laquers, enamels, and uerthane paints, and can they be used for something else than just clears?

[Paz8]

If your painting the entire car the type of paint you choose determines the type of primer coats you use. Base coat/clear coat is the most used. You need to stick with one manufacture as they call the paints "systems" As an example, I use Chroma base/clear so I use all of duponts primers etc. this way everything works together, this takes the guess work out.

 

The big brand name base/clear coat paints are costly so you need to do it right the first time.

 

I am NOT a pro painter just shelf taught doing my own projects, just my opinion.

[U.P. Z]

The nice thing about base/clear coat is first, the base is real easy to spray. The clear is a little trickier and can run and sag but the good thing is you can block and buff it out and make it look good even if you goober it up. If you mess up a single stage metallic you're screwed and will end up sanding and respraying. Either way, you're paint job is only as good as the prep beneath it.

[Paz8]

Gotta agree, you can fix runs on the clear coat fairly easy, some people new to automotive paint don't realize the cost of just the paint supplies to do a quality paint job.

[Guest tigermountainracing]

With the toners, I use mostly Kandy Dies. I add them to either the first coat of clear or what is called an intercoat clear which is the same as a base coat without the pigment for color. You can get any color you want. With the clear coats, you can sand and polish them out but if you tint the clear coat, sanding it out will change the color of that sopt on the car. If the clear sags or settles in the corners, this area will appear darker. That is why a tint should be added to an intercoat clear and not your final clear coat. The paints are expensive. Very expensive. When you srat getting into metal flakes, kandy's, and metallics, they add more cost than one might expect. With flakes and kandy's, the prep work needs to be perfect and the spraying needs to be really good otherwise the flaws show up more.

 

I hope this helps and doesn't confuse even more.

 

Gary

Miller's Rod and Cycle