Guest Anonymous Posted December 5, 2000 Share Posted December 5, 2000 Anyone know just how different the 2 ground control camber plates are? How much cutting is required for the caster adjustment plates in front? Any idea how much negative camber you can get front and rear with stock dimension springs? What exactly is the ground control 'weld on hardware' that you weld onto the strut? Just a metal ring for the sleeve to sit on? How do you shorten strut tubes? Do you cut off the end and re-thread the tube, or do you cut a section out of the middle and weld the ends back together or what? Threading such thin tubing is not something I would want to do! Nor is welding on the most critical part of my suspension...... How low do you need to go before you really need to worry about shortening the struts? And if they're shortened more than just a tad, seems like it would let the car bottom out(ie. the body hit the ground) more, no? Every one of my 300ZXs have been such that the suspension will bottom out with the body of the car less than an inch above flat pavement. Seems to me like this would be ideal, no? Just wondering if I really need the added cost of coil overs is all. ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 i have gc 12" street coil over kit with camber plates on my 77 z.the longer springs ride better but you have to grind the welds on strut tubes and remove old perches and weld on rings to stop threade collars form sliding down.some coil over kits use 7" springs but car will ride rough.to put camber plates in you have to do major cutting on strut towers-like removing about %70 percent of the tops.my car will go to -3.5 camber.the plates rattle on bumpsthe spring rest on a aluminum spring perch with a bearing under it for turning.my struts were not cut but on gc track kitthey cut the struts and use toyota mr2 cartridges.i put this set up on a 240-it will go to the ground .my spring are 225 lb front and 250 in rear.i would not do this to a street car but i use my car for driver schools at roadc race tracks.car is plenty low and if it is too low it dosent handle as good-done that at sears point.if car is too stiff tires slide on top of pavement.if i do another z i am going to copy simon's control armsand use stock parts on top of strut.except maybe put aluminum coil over perch against bottem of a 240 stock upper strut mount and use coil over springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 Here's my thinking on the sectioning. With a lowered car, you lose susp. travel (duh). With larger wheels (17" for instance), you gain ground clearance. So, I think it balances out nicely. I'm sectioning mine. I bought the GTI cartridges for the front. I'll post pictures when I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 14, 2000 Share Posted December 14, 2000 Here's a pic of my front struts, cut approx 2" to suit the VW Golf Sport struts. I did this by cutting a section out of the tube and tig welding it back together. To strengthen it a bit more I welded my threaded spring perch section over the top, again with tig http://www.usq.edu.au/users/degroot/240z/pages/hpcbits.htm its down near the bottom of the page on the left hand side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.